Best MPG mods you've found
#21
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oyah i know he should be getting better milage, but a while back i was getting at least 430 to 450 a tank doing the same driving and now its just dropped to around 350km to a tank. i think i might have some problem with my truck lol. and i dont have a heavy foot while driving my yota because even if i am hard on the gas it dosent get me anywhere lol.
#22
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Join Date: Mar 2009
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Fan clutch more than likely for you 91,Mine went bad in my 3.0 I already have 33's and a auto with 4.10 gears so I already only see 10 mpg but My fan clutch went bad and I dropped down to 6mpg town and about 12 highway.
#25
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oyah i know he should be getting better milage, but a while back i was getting at least 430 to 450 a tank doing the same driving and now its just dropped to around 350km to a tank. i think i might have some problem with my truck lol. and i dont have a heavy foot while driving my yota because even if i am hard on the gas it dosent get me anywhere lol.
#26
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where at? i am lucky if i break 15mpg with my 22re (not taking into account my 32" tires). not that i'm compaining, i mean, i drive a truck. but i'd love to get more if it was an easy fix.
#27
Registered User
1) Headers/exhaust modifcations provide quite a bit help
2) ISR mod
3) check vacuum lines
4) K&N intake filter, not the open cone.
5) Manual locking hubs
6) A/Ts and not M/Ts
7) no lift
8) fiberglass hood, fenders, etc etc.
9) not being so heavy on the throttle
10) regular maintanence... tune ups and such
11) drafting big rigs
12) keeping it under 3k RPMs, ( under 65 )
13) lighten your load and dont carry so much in your truck
the possibilities are endless...
2) ISR mod
3) check vacuum lines
4) K&N intake filter, not the open cone.
5) Manual locking hubs
6) A/Ts and not M/Ts
7) no lift
8) fiberglass hood, fenders, etc etc.
9) not being so heavy on the throttle
10) regular maintanence... tune ups and such
11) drafting big rigs
12) keeping it under 3k RPMs, ( under 65 )
13) lighten your load and dont carry so much in your truck
the possibilities are endless...
#28
Contributing Member
Winter blended fuel will affect mpg this time of the year as well that could be your issue if it just started with no explanation, as for the 22re being slow and all, my 22re does 85 no problem and I am getting 15 mpg all around 5 speed on 35's with a SAS and 5.29's could do better on hills but it is just a 4 cylinder after all. seems to run better and and get the same mpg as my 3.0 on IFS with the same set up gear and tire wise.
#29
Registered User
but with my 31" super swampers...unless i had them at 40psi or above...my truck would be like....TURTLE SLOW!!! and get about 16-17mpgs on the state highways...
now if i took the same tires..aired em up to around 45psi..i would get 20mpg's or better on the same roads..with the same gas from the same station out of the same tanker..
like i said this might not be true for a less aggressive tire..but for my swampers it sucked to run em any lower than 40-45psi
#30
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Leadville Colorado
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I've found a good set of size 235/75/15 tires is a great mod for mileage. I get around 19 in town but that's with a 22re. My old 95 3.0 auto 4Runner got 13 mpg so I would say 15 isn't too bad for a 3.0 5spd. truck with 31's
#31
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and my 22r is slow as everything...although it does better now than it did before (at least the RPM range is a LOT better with the 261*) it's still a frickin dog...idk how you guys are able to go 75-85 with ur 22re's on 31" tires..
mine MIGHT do 80...if it's running TOP NOTCH..and i get a LONG LONG LONG running start at it..lol
mine MIGHT do 80...if it's running TOP NOTCH..and i get a LONG LONG LONG running start at it..lol
#32
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mine's all original and will cruise 75 all day no problem that's with 235's though. My old 87 4Runner with 31 inch muds struggled to hold 70 mph in 5th.
#34
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i didnt know there was such thing as winter gas making your mpg drop? my buddy is still getting the same mpg as he was in the summer so?? and i know my muds dont help but i had bfg a/t's before and i only lost about 30km to a tank, now its just dropped of the map. but whatever i just suck it up and put the gas in lol i would rather drive my yota than a honda civic haha
#35
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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Dunno, my truck has no cat at all, but it's carbed. The only thing it throws is foul-smelling exhaust. I guess it would have to do with where the O2 sensor is located, which is something I don't know, if it's before the cat then it shouldn't have any issues with a hollowed-out cat, other than if someone found out, that is.
Last edited by Magnusian; 11-10-2009 at 06:01 AM.
#36
I have a stock 88 with ifs and 4x4, 22re engine. I allways get 20+ mpg or better on the highway, more like 23. I have my idle screw as low as it will go; idles at about 750+rpms.
Tires are 235/75/15's, but I am going to go up to 265/70's. Also will be getting a 2 inch lift; they are also AllTerrains.
I throw the clutch into idle, and coast, as much as poss, especially when getting off a freeway ramp, or coming up to red lights. Coasting helps, BIG TIME!!!
Pressure/lbs per tire, at least 35, if not 40. Hard ride? You bet your bruised
arse!!!
Balance and rotate your tires, 4 times a year, no matter what.
Go to Brake check, or someplace, get a lifetime alignment, and do that at least 3 times a year, it will pay for itself fast. I got this done for my 90 buick regal, and my 92 caprice, about 5 years ago. I have done at least 10 alignments on both since then, even though i rarely drive the buick, it is a backup vehicle. That is at least 1000 bucks per vehicle, worth of alignments,
and truly they pay for themselves, after the first two alignments done, plus this will help with your vehicle performance, handling, and gas mileage.
Seafoam treatment trick is done , at least twice a year.
In 5th gear, I am at exactly 70 miles per hour, with the rpm's at exactly 3000. And I also carry a lot of gear in the back of my rig, two 36 or 40 gallon igloos, side by side, right behind the front seats, one is filled with tools, flashlights and such; the other is filled with water, lubes, oils, etc., for the rig. not to mention, any of my work gear, or parts or equipment, or boxes of paper, which weigh 24 to 45 lbs per box, and I usually am carrying multiple boxes.
I have also decided to throw on a rear fareing/spoiler thingy, for the top back of the runner, to direct airflow better; it totally sucks as it is right now. When I roll the back window down, the exhaust comes right up into the cab, so you know you are getting terrible airflow/direction back there.
I am also thinking of upgrading my sparkplugs/wires; which are the good ones again?
I will also be going with a 2.5 inch pipe , after the cat, and a Borla muffler, stainless steel.
Should also help a bit...
Tires are 235/75/15's, but I am going to go up to 265/70's. Also will be getting a 2 inch lift; they are also AllTerrains.
I throw the clutch into idle, and coast, as much as poss, especially when getting off a freeway ramp, or coming up to red lights. Coasting helps, BIG TIME!!!
Pressure/lbs per tire, at least 35, if not 40. Hard ride? You bet your bruised
arse!!!
Balance and rotate your tires, 4 times a year, no matter what.
Go to Brake check, or someplace, get a lifetime alignment, and do that at least 3 times a year, it will pay for itself fast. I got this done for my 90 buick regal, and my 92 caprice, about 5 years ago. I have done at least 10 alignments on both since then, even though i rarely drive the buick, it is a backup vehicle. That is at least 1000 bucks per vehicle, worth of alignments,
and truly they pay for themselves, after the first two alignments done, plus this will help with your vehicle performance, handling, and gas mileage.
Seafoam treatment trick is done , at least twice a year.
In 5th gear, I am at exactly 70 miles per hour, with the rpm's at exactly 3000. And I also carry a lot of gear in the back of my rig, two 36 or 40 gallon igloos, side by side, right behind the front seats, one is filled with tools, flashlights and such; the other is filled with water, lubes, oils, etc., for the rig. not to mention, any of my work gear, or parts or equipment, or boxes of paper, which weigh 24 to 45 lbs per box, and I usually am carrying multiple boxes.
I have also decided to throw on a rear fareing/spoiler thingy, for the top back of the runner, to direct airflow better; it totally sucks as it is right now. When I roll the back window down, the exhaust comes right up into the cab, so you know you are getting terrible airflow/direction back there.
I am also thinking of upgrading my sparkplugs/wires; which are the good ones again?
I will also be going with a 2.5 inch pipe , after the cat, and a Borla muffler, stainless steel.
Should also help a bit...
Last edited by rangerruck; 11-11-2009 at 09:22 PM.
#37
...now that I look, don't know if it will take a 2.5 inch pipe, but I will get at least a 2.25, if the muffler dude says it won't take a 2.5...
Also will be doing a snorkel mod for the air intake, and maybe some hood
air flow cuts...
Also will be doing a snorkel mod for the air intake, and maybe some hood
air flow cuts...
#38
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Join Date: Nov 2009
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89 4Runner w/3.0L 5spd manual ; what emissions equipment can be removed without causing the computer to have fits?
I'd love to remove the cat, egr, charcoal canister...what else?
I'd love to remove the cat, egr, charcoal canister...what else?
#39
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This has been helpful so far.........I've got about 1 mpg more so far. Done the simple stuff.....plugs, fluids, etc.
Working on figuring out my best and most cost efficient way to do the exhaust........
Can some explain or point me to a DIY on the ISR mod please??
Working on figuring out my best and most cost efficient way to do the exhaust........
Can some explain or point me to a DIY on the ISR mod please??