AH64ID

interesting, I am going to order a set here pretty quick and dont want to run into that problem. I already have to put a 1/4" spacer on to run chains with my winter tires.... but I guess i could always sell the almunim rims (aftermkt) and get some steelies...black looks better with big rubber anyhow....

s_wall98

Im pretty sure any aftermarket....well most aftermarket rims will be fine. Basically if you're wheels stick out more than factory, you should be fine. I could be wrong on this, but thats what I had imagined.

mat

1993 Toyota stock rims (and other years with the same rims) have about 4.5 inchs of back spaceing. i think. rims with less back spacing or taller rims with larger tires will have less or no problems with rubbing on the a-arm. so shiftless 89, with less back spacing is almost as far out as i am now with the 1.5 inch wheel spacers and i'm not having any more probs either. like s wall98 said, most after market rims will have less back spacing and will workout fine.

86Original

Man, those studs are pain to get out!!! I'm about worn out and still have three studs to get out. I've got the LCA jacked up to hold up the BJ against the UCA, and have been beating it with a 6-lb maul, to no avail. The first one on that side fell out fairly quick, but these last three are being stuubbboorrnn. I tried Mat's tip on the first side, but it didn't work for me. BTW, it takes a 6" extension to reach the arm of the steering knuckle to use a 13mm socket.

BTW, my stock rims w/ 235's almost rub at full droop. I'll get to see if the do at standing height. Same place above the lip on the rounded part.

-MaTTi-

Yes they are. Nothing else but pain.

I tried everything, but I had to cut two of them and drill them out.

86Original

I didn't have near as much corrosion as MaTTi did, but I'm still having to cut out two of them and drill them out.

Hey! Why don't we get turbo-diesel Toyotas here??? I said about 8 years ago that if I could have a TD 4runner I would give up my old blue. They don't have them here, so I keep driving it!

86Original

Had to drill out the last two studs. Here's a pic of my rig flexing with stock rims, 235's at street pressure. That's 17.5" of total articulation. Not astounding, but pretty good for IFS w/ Monroe Sensatrac shocks on it. The second pic is of the oversize nut and washer to act as spacers for the front shocks. I think I'm getting max droop out of the BJ spacers with this.

AH64ID

How are you measuring that 17.5"?

86Original

The combined height of the blocks in the front and the blocks in the back at a diagonal. Didn't have a ramp, so it's a common trick to approximate a ramp with opposite lifts like that.

AH64ID

Hmm, never seen it done that way. I have always heard it in terms of travel per wheel. So 17.5" would say one wheel moved 17.5"... Was that as high as you could get the rear off the ground, its lower than the front? Just seems odd to me...

91Toyota4x4

You jack up the opposing wheels like that until you start to lift a tire and the ting starts teetering. It give the same basic affect as just jacking one wheel, but is probably a little safer than jacking one wheel way up in the air, and alot of jacks don't go that high.

AH64ID

Hmmm.... what do you refernce that number to? Wheelbase, or is it just a number?

86Original

What I was getting to was a cheap RTI (ramp travel index). See 4Crawler's idea at
http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Ramp.shtml

I guess the 17.5 inches would put me at somewhere a little over 500RTI

AH64ID

Gotcha... I guess its a way to do it,