ball joint spacers need HELP!!!!!
#1
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ball joint spacers need HELP!!!!!
ok has eny one made a thread on how to put in ball joints spacers i have searched and i havent found anythin or if some one god some dimonstration pics that would be awsome
#3
BJ spacers
There are the SDORI instructions on their site, as well as on 4Crawler's site.
Here's a few pics that I made of mine- they aren't in instruction / writeup format YET, but it will happen.
http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/c...cer%20install/
To make it easy- get the following:
1. 22mm / 7/8" wrench
2. 3" air grinder- the wheels fit under the UCA real easy; it only took a few cuts to make the right amount of room.
3. a few 2X4s to hold the UCAs up- it makes a HUGE difference.
4. New balljoints- for 35-50 ea, it just makes sense to replace them.
5.Something to cover everything in there- the grinding dust will be everywhere.
6. a 4.5" grinder, or something to round off the edges of the cuts.
More as I remember.
Here's a few pics that I made of mine- they aren't in instruction / writeup format YET, but it will happen.
http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/c...cer%20install/
To make it easy- get the following:
1. 22mm / 7/8" wrench
2. 3" air grinder- the wheels fit under the UCA real easy; it only took a few cuts to make the right amount of room.
3. a few 2X4s to hold the UCAs up- it makes a HUGE difference.
4. New balljoints- for 35-50 ea, it just makes sense to replace them.
5.Something to cover everything in there- the grinding dust will be everywhere.
6. a 4.5" grinder, or something to round off the edges of the cuts.
More as I remember.
#6
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Its easier then you think The hardest part for us was getting the spindle back into the upper control arm, we didnt have anything to wedge in there unfortunatly. Make sure before you put them in, you can align it yourself or get it aligned soon. Make sure your tie rod adjuster sleeves are not seized
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#8
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Those are some pretty good pictures 89934runr. It looks like you took the t-bars out and if you had spent 5 minutes more you could have just pulled the three bolts holding the upper arm on. This makes cutting and fitting much easier. I took the time to put in new poly bushing in the arms while I was at it. Oh and a cutting disk on a 4 or 4 1/2" angle grinder works prefect.
Last edited by Bear80; 01-10-2008 at 10:06 PM.
#10
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If you're reusing the factory ball joint you have to knock out the 4 studs in the ball joint so you can use the longer bolts they give you with the ball joint. It's easiest to knock them out whilt the ball joint still has the weight of the truck on it, but I just took mine in the garage and put them on the vise and knocked them out.
#11
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Yes, with the balljoint being in place with the weight of the UCA the studs were VERY easy to knock out. But ahead of time, I hit mine with the pb blaster after I removed all the crap off the nuts with a wire brush.
#13
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the studs were so siezed into my BJ that I couldn't have imagined trying to get them out without the weight of the truck holding it in place. It took mashing on them with a 5lb hammer to get them out. Had to hit them so hard they started to round over and had trouble fitting them through the holes.
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