Back window goes down but wont go back up
#1
Back window goes down but wont go back up
I have a 92 lemon and ive had constant problems with my back window, last year i had to replace the relays on the circuit board and that fixed it, but now the window went down and wont go back up, which is perfect because its supposed to snow a ˟˟˟˟load tonight, i replaced the relays again and it still doesnt work, ive tried jumping the motor and that doesnt work either, all i get with the circuit board plugged in is a click in the down position and nothing on the up position. The motor went down fine but wont budge up, is the motor fried? Is the circuit board fried? NEED HELP!
#2
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Check your PMs...
Sadly there isn't much you can really do if the transistors in the control relay have died. It sounds like only one died, the one for the up. Use the "Service Hints" section to check all the correct voltages and continuities on the control relay. You'll obviously want a multimeter but I bet you already have one.
Sadly there isn't much you can really do if the transistors in the control relay have died. It sounds like only one died, the one for the up. Use the "Service Hints" section to check all the correct voltages and continuities on the control relay. You'll obviously want a multimeter but I bet you already have one.
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Disconnect the plug to the motor and go directly to the the battery using jumper wires. Reversing polarity at the battery will tell you right away if it is the motor. Not as familiar with the 2nd gen hatch but appears alot of the same as far as functioning.
If the motor is good, I would clean the switch to get all of coke,coffee, and dust out of the switch. It probably has a lot of green corrosion on the contacts. Is the hatch shut tightly? Try leaning against the gate and make sure the rear wiper is in the stow position.
I have several links on Post #185 for more trouble shooting. Link>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...99/index8.html
I usually havent had much problems with the relay itself. It has mostly been corriosion on the switches.
If the motor is good, I would clean the switch to get all of coke,coffee, and dust out of the switch. It probably has a lot of green corrosion on the contacts. Is the hatch shut tightly? Try leaning against the gate and make sure the rear wiper is in the stow position.
I have several links on Post #185 for more trouble shooting. Link>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...99/index8.html
I usually havent had much problems with the relay itself. It has mostly been corriosion on the switches.
#6
Disconnect the plug to the motor and go directly to the the battery using jumper wires. Reversing polarity at the battery will tell you right away if it is the motor. Not as familiar with the 2nd gen hatch but appears alot of the same as far as functioning.
If the motor is good, I would clean the switch to get all of coke,coffee, and dust out of the switch. It probably has a lot of green corrosion on the contacts. Is the hatch shut tightly? Try leaning against the gate and make sure the rear wiper is in the stow position.
I have several links on Post #185 for more trouble shooting. Link>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...99/index8.html
I usually havent had much problems with the relay itself. It has mostly been corriosion on the switches.
If the motor is good, I would clean the switch to get all of coke,coffee, and dust out of the switch. It probably has a lot of green corrosion on the contacts. Is the hatch shut tightly? Try leaning against the gate and make sure the rear wiper is in the stow position.
I have several links on Post #185 for more trouble shooting. Link>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...99/index8.html
I usually havent had much problems with the relay itself. It has mostly been corriosion on the switches.
#7
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If you have your motor disconnected at the plug in your rear hatch.
This is what were saying!! You have eliminated all the rest of the circuit!!! Also you have bypassed all the safety switches that may have failed
If the motor does not work it is the motor that has failed.
Is this what you have done to test it??
Are you trying to get it to work doing this at the switch in the console??
About the only relay failure I have ever seen was from water damage.
In any case good luck
This is what were saying!! You have eliminated all the rest of the circuit!!! Also you have bypassed all the safety switches that may have failed
If the motor does not work it is the motor that has failed.
Is this what you have done to test it??
Are you trying to get it to work doing this at the switch in the console??
About the only relay failure I have ever seen was from water damage.
In any case good luck
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#8
If you have your motor disconnected at the plug in your rear hatch.
This is what were saying!! You have eliminated all the rest of the circuit!!! Also you have bypassed all the safety switches that may have failed
If the motor does not work it is the motor that has failed.
Is this what you have done to test it??
Are you trying to get it to work doing this at the switch in the console??
About the only relay failure I have ever seen was from water damage.
In any case good luck
This is what were saying!! You have eliminated all the rest of the circuit!!! Also you have bypassed all the safety switches that may have failed
If the motor does not work it is the motor that has failed.
Is this what you have done to test it??
Are you trying to get it to work doing this at the switch in the console??
About the only relay failure I have ever seen was from water damage.
In any case good luck
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If the motor is directly hooked to the battery and still not working, the motor is bad.
A bad/corroded Up switch contact would give the same symptoms of the relay not working. Just for ease and cost, I would check the switch out well before digging into the relay box.
A bad/corroded Up switch contact would give the same symptoms of the relay not working. Just for ease and cost, I would check the switch out well before digging into the relay box.
#11
Once you know that motor is working, If AND ONLY IF yours is similar to first-gen runner (grounding Up/Down pins will control window) try jumping Up/Down of window relay module directly to ground. If they work, check your window lock and up/down switches to make sure contacts close (no corrosion).
#12
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If by chance the motor is bad, there is a thread somewhere on here saying what cars use the same motor. I think it is the rear drivers side electric windows on camrys, but could be wrong. There are alot available.
#13
UPDATE: i decide to go to pick n pull today and i looked around for a new circuit board, found one in ten minutes and paid $5 for it, plugged it in in the parking lot and fixed it, and proceeded to laugh myself out of the parking lot. After the window was up ofcourse
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The first rule of troubleshooting remotely is never assume the test the person ran actually gave you the result they reported. The motor was still good even though he tested it and thought it was bad Of course it couldn't have been bad given that he rolled it down...
#16
Sorry-double post. darn slow internet
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 12-01-2012 at 12:14 PM.
#17
Trust but verify. Our trucks are like our better halves; would you like others to work on them? - LOL!
#19
Ok so today i went and rolled the window down with the new circuit board and it wouldnt go up, i had to pull the window and wiggle it around it seems and i tried rollin it up and it worked. Then it started to not want to go down and both the key switch and console switch werent working, then helping the window again i got it back up, the whole time i can hear the up and down relays clicking. I cant tell if the motor is fried or if its the circuit board or something else:S
#20
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Oh no! So it sounds like you might have a compound problem, or the window motor was bad all along and replacing the circuit board didn't solve anything. If the relays weren't clicking before then likely the board was actually bad. But your window motor could be bad too. Since it seems to work if you "help it" I'd say the motor windings have shorted and it simply can't generate the torque to lift the window up. Replace the motor
Incidentally, a bad motor can kill these circuit boards. The motor windings short, and the motor can't lift the window so it stalls. Stalling a DC motor causes a huge current spike, which can overheat components and kill them.
Incidentally, a bad motor can kill these circuit boards. The motor windings short, and the motor can't lift the window so it stalls. Stalling a DC motor causes a huge current spike, which can overheat components and kill them.