Is this axle wrap?
#1
Is this axle wrap?
I've been trying to figure out what this bucking slop in the drivetrain is. I've replaced the motor and trans mounts, working my way back, and now I'm to the axle. I just read about axle wrap and watched some videos on youtube demonstrating it, and I think that's what the problem is, but I'm not sure.
So I decided to strap a camera to my gas tank's skid plate and go for a test drive. After reviewing the video, I can see that the axle is definitely twisting, but I don't know if it's within normal tolerances. Either way, I can now visualize what's happening. There is a gap between the lowest leaf, which is pretty flat, and the upper leafs, which are curved together. The axle only seems to be twisting until the lower leaf closes the gap and makes contact with the leaf above it. It only manages to close the gap under high torque, like in 1st and 2nd gear at full throttle. At this point, I don't get any bucking at all.
However, when I'm not applying enough torque to close the gap, such as when I'm in higher gears at highway speeds (usually going uphill), I get bucking. I think this is coming from the axle rocking back and forth as the lower leaf isn't making contact and isn't helping to support anything.
I've uploaded two snapshots from the video. The first is when I'm at a stop, and the other is when I'm at full throttle in first gear.
Is this beyond the proper range of movement? You can see how far the driveshaft is being lifted.
This is an '88 22re 5-spd 4wd.
So I decided to strap a camera to my gas tank's skid plate and go for a test drive. After reviewing the video, I can see that the axle is definitely twisting, but I don't know if it's within normal tolerances. Either way, I can now visualize what's happening. There is a gap between the lowest leaf, which is pretty flat, and the upper leafs, which are curved together. The axle only seems to be twisting until the lower leaf closes the gap and makes contact with the leaf above it. It only manages to close the gap under high torque, like in 1st and 2nd gear at full throttle. At this point, I don't get any bucking at all.
However, when I'm not applying enough torque to close the gap, such as when I'm in higher gears at highway speeds (usually going uphill), I get bucking. I think this is coming from the axle rocking back and forth as the lower leaf isn't making contact and isn't helping to support anything.
I've uploaded two snapshots from the video. The first is when I'm at a stop, and the other is when I'm at full throttle in first gear.
Is this beyond the proper range of movement? You can see how far the driveshaft is being lifted.
This is an '88 22re 5-spd 4wd.
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
His pinion to propshaft angle is almost inverting 100%.. I can't measure it on this, but I'll make up angles.. from 165 to 190
Can(would) you pull another frame that shows it while engine braking please?
Can(would) you pull another frame that shows it while engine braking please?
Last edited by Co_94_PU; 02-21-2017 at 02:36 PM. Reason: One to many pinions
#7
The bucking feels like some really big dude is pushing and pulling really fast on the back of the truck while I'm driving, occurring mainly when I'm cruising at highway speeds, usually uphill, but it isn't related to a certain speed It's only when I'm on the gas. It stops as soon as I let off the gas. It isn't the engine doing it though. I have a new clutch kit, new mounts,and everything back to the rear differential has been apart and back together recently, so I know everything is fastened to proper torque, and it was doing it before all that anyway. I don't see anything that looks loose.
I have a noticeable exhaust leak, so I don't have a whole lot of engine braking effect to speak of. I'll see if I can cut a short video of my last ride.
Here's some photos of the springs.
I have a noticeable exhaust leak, so I don't have a whole lot of engine braking effect to speak of. I'll see if I can cut a short video of my last ride.
Here's some photos of the springs.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: N of Okechobee Florida
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
"The bucking feels like some really big dude is pushing and pulling really fast on the back of the truck while I'm driving, occurring mainly when I'm cruising at highway speeds, usually uphill, but it isn't related to a certain speed It's only when I'm on the gas. It stops as soon as I let off the gas."
I had these symptoms before and it turned out to be a cracked flywheel and a sheared gear in the rear end. Not sure which problem caused the other failure.
I had these symptoms before and it turned out to be a cracked flywheel and a sheared gear in the rear end. Not sure which problem caused the other failure.
#10
I was worried it might be the flywheel which is why I went ahead and did the clutch kit, but the flywheel was fine, and all the bolts were tight.
Here I've cut a video of me taking off on the highway.
Here I've cut a video of me taking off on the highway.
#11
Registered User
Some axle adjustment is to be expected on takeoff. I've never noticed axle wrap issues on a 22r/22re/v6 truck, what so ever. But it's pretty bad on my 67, even with aftermarket leaf springs and an under axle setup.
I had axle wrapping issues on my 4Runner when it had chevy 63s and 4" of block, but once i swapped to ALL pro springs with no blocks, The issue was resolved.
I had axle wrapping issues on my 4Runner when it had chevy 63s and 4" of block, but once i swapped to ALL pro springs with no blocks, The issue was resolved.
#19
What's notable damage? I don't know anything about leafs.
I see that the edges of two of those C-clamp looking things that are bent out. I guess that's from too much separation of the leafs from over-travel?
There's no play in either of the flanges of the transfer case or rear differential. The front U-joint has no play. The rear U-joint has a slight hair's-worth of play. I don't think the rear U-joint is a problem, but I'll replace it anyway.
I went to a few local auto-parts stores to check prices. Looks like add-a-leafs are about half the cost of new springs. Seems like the smart money would be on new springs with new bushings.
The only place that could get complete springs was Oreillys, and all they could get is Pro Comp 33311. Those springs are listed as "4 inch lift", and judging by the threads I read on this forum, they sound like they're 4 inches of lift in addition to stock hight. So I guess that's not what I need. I'm happy with stock hight and 31" tires.
Funny that nobody around here can get stock springs.
I see that the edges of two of those C-clamp looking things that are bent out. I guess that's from too much separation of the leafs from over-travel?
There's no play in either of the flanges of the transfer case or rear differential. The front U-joint has no play. The rear U-joint has a slight hair's-worth of play. I don't think the rear U-joint is a problem, but I'll replace it anyway.
I went to a few local auto-parts stores to check prices. Looks like add-a-leafs are about half the cost of new springs. Seems like the smart money would be on new springs with new bushings.
The only place that could get complete springs was Oreillys, and all they could get is Pro Comp 33311. Those springs are listed as "4 inch lift", and judging by the threads I read on this forum, they sound like they're 4 inches of lift in addition to stock hight. So I guess that's not what I need. I'm happy with stock hight and 31" tires.
Funny that nobody around here can get stock springs.
#20
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
What's notable damage? I don't know anything about leafs.
I see that the edges of two of those C-clamp looking things that are bent out. I guess that's from too much separation of the leafs from over-travel?
There's no play in either of the flanges of the transfer case or rear differential. The front U-joint has no play. The rear U-joint has a slight hair's-worth of play. I don't think the rear U-joint is a problem, but I'll replace it anyway.
I went to a few local auto-parts stores to check prices. Looks like add-a-leafs are about half the cost of new springs. Seems like the smart money would be on new springs with new bushings.
The only place that could get complete springs was Oreillys, and all they could get is Pro Comp 33311. Those springs are listed as "4 inch lift", and judging by the threads I read on this forum, they sound like they're 4 inches of lift in addition to stock hight. So I guess that's not what I need. I'm happy with stock hight and 31" tires.
Funny that nobody around here can get stock springs.
I see that the edges of two of those C-clamp looking things that are bent out. I guess that's from too much separation of the leafs from over-travel?
There's no play in either of the flanges of the transfer case or rear differential. The front U-joint has no play. The rear U-joint has a slight hair's-worth of play. I don't think the rear U-joint is a problem, but I'll replace it anyway.
I went to a few local auto-parts stores to check prices. Looks like add-a-leafs are about half the cost of new springs. Seems like the smart money would be on new springs with new bushings.
The only place that could get complete springs was Oreillys, and all they could get is Pro Comp 33311. Those springs are listed as "4 inch lift", and judging by the threads I read on this forum, they sound like they're 4 inches of lift in addition to stock hight. So I guess that's not what I need. I'm happy with stock hight and 31" tires.
Funny that nobody around here can get stock springs.