Autozone = JUNK! They will give you a lifetime warranty though if you don't mind pulling the tranny to replace the clutch every 6 months.

 

Well my god...Haha
I decided on the marlin 1,200.
Bought it tonight for 209.99 with shipping. So now i just gotta wait for it to get here to put my new tranny in

 

For every clutch change Ive done all I did to a new clutch kit and even used set is a new flywheel from Oreilys or Checkers and its a big difference from using the same flywheel and the cost was for a exchange at 45 dollars or no swap at 90 dollars.

 

What's pro's and cons to getting a new flywheel or getting my old one turned?
I've never really read up on it...

 

I think the end result will be the same, the only pro in buying a new one is time....no dropping it off to be machined and then waiting for it to be done, only con is that buying a new one will be more expensive than having your machined.

 

True but what's the reason for getting a new one or getting mine machined?
I know like brake drums or rotors need to be turned when slightly warped or have small grooves cut in...
But what's the reason for having the flywheel done?
I'm still learning and have not jumped into the world of transmissions and such yet...

 

Just like brake rotors, a flywheel will get hot and warp. Heat will also build a glaze on the surface that will make the cluch disk slip easier. The point of having your machined or replaced is just to give the new clutch disc a nice smooth surface to grip.

 

I used the Autozone clutch and it's given me no problems after 40,000 miles. I got 180,000 off the original clutch. If I get half that off the Autozone one, I'll be happy. And if I get 180,000, I will be thrilled. I have no idea how much longer I'll be driving the truck anyway. So if I end up spending a weekend replacing my Autozone clutch in the next 4-5 years, so be it. I took a gamble and lost. But if not, I saved myself at least $100.

I respect the opinions of people who advise buying the fanciest, most expensive, ceramic, carbon fiber and titanium clutch made. And making sure the flywheel is absolutely flawless and polished to a mirror finish for top performance.

But for me, I'm short on cash, and have a 20 year-old truck that's worth about $2,000. I'll be damned if I'm gonna pay top dollar for custom high performance parts that often tend to have a higher defect rate than no-nonsense, mass-produced, no-frills parts. For me, I can't imagine a worse outcome than spending top dollar and still winding up with some defective component.

But that's just me, and I'm obviously in the minority on this issue.

 

Not necisarily, I understand your veiwpoint. If I wasn't planning on keeping my truck or was worried about it's value then I might see it the same way. Another good reason to stick with a stock type clutch is pedal effort. The reason I and prob most of the others recomend the marlin clutch is because we wheel our trucks and need the heavier clutch.

 

Now here's another question...
Will the marlin 1,200 clutch affect the stiffness of my pedal more than the stock clutch?
Is there anyway to soften my clutch pedal up at all?

And I understand exactly where your coming from,
As a 17 year old pulling just above minimum wage, I look for the best value and would like to save money as much as possible.
Also, I want the best quality for my truck, and I like the fact that this clutch from marlin crawler is a little more heavy duty...
With my size tires, stock gears, and the little 22RE pushing those tires, I want the best for my vehicle.
Not saying that autozone oem clutch is a bad clutch, but a little more heavy duty clutch would make me feel better...

 

I switched engines when I installed my Marlin for the 3.4, but I have the original master and slave pushing that new(ish now, 15,000 mi or so on it) clutch, and the pedal effort is the same as when I had the original 3.0 clutch(w/211,000 mi or so on it). If it were mechanical linkage to actuate the clutch, the pressure plate difference would be felt, but with properly functioning and bled hydraulics, there's very little difference, usually.

 

84 ext cab "Barney" had a HD performance clutch with stock MC, stock slave everything the same as 85 ext cab "Weasel" with a stock Aisin clutch.

The only difference in these two trucks in the clutch system was that one was OEM Aisin the other a HD performance clutch. I have bad knees and the HD performance clutch was significantly harder to actuate than the stock Aisin clutch. Driving it in bumper to bumper traffic got old quickly.

There is a difference in the effort it takes to actuate them, I guess it just depends on how young your knees are. To me it was significant.

:wabbit2:

 

Always, resurface a flywheel. Get that nice new clutch to mate up with fresh metal. Not old, baked-on clutch material.

That equals chatter city.

And NEVER put a cheap-o POS clutch in that has rubber bushings in place of metal springs.

And PS. "Napa" clutches are cheap-o POS "Perfection" clutches at Advanced.

They have the same part #

I haven't looked at the AZ ones, but I'm sure they're a re-brand as well.

The more I've looked for ANY off-brand parts these days from different supply chains, the more I've seen the same P#'s.

Go OEM as much as possible.

 

Laws of physics being what they are, it doesn't matter whether you have a hydraulic or mechanical clutch linkage - you'll be able to feel the effects of a stiffer pressure plate spring in either linkage. The reason is that when you depress the clutch pedal, you are causing the clutch release fork to push against the pressure plate springs, and the stiffer those springs are, the more pedal effort required. You are pressing against the force that is pinching the clutch disk. More force pressing against the disk, more force required to counteract it and disengage. If there is absolutely no more pedal effort with a new clutch, then the new pressure plate isn't stronger than the old one. Simple physics.

Since owners of the Marlin 1200 lb clutch almost universally report no or little extra pedal effort required, it really makes me wonder if it really is stronger than stock, or as much as 33% stronger, as the specs would seem to indicate.

 

I noticed a slight change in clutch pressure slight. Please physics master contemplate that the stock pressure plate is around 900lbs to step up 300lbs of pressure with the same hydrualics that make 900lbs free really easy is not going to be significant. But I do not have knee problems.

Wab you should go see the Dr your knee issues might be treatable if attended to now as these things don't get better with age. Physical therapy if do right and followed as directed can do wonders.

 

I had the 1200 lb marlin on my 3vz and it worked well, very easy pedal feel. The clutch on my celica is waaay stiffer.
now i have a stage 4 clutchmasters on my 5vz swap... i think it's 2400lb pressure plate... its a tad stiffer than my 3vz clutch, but still way lighter than my OEM celica clutch.
They changed the leverage point on the clutch forks to make a heavy plate alot easier to DD. it's still grabby tho

 

Yeah, different vehicles may have different clutch pedal arm length, different master cylinder piston diameter, slave cylinder piston diameter, release fork length, different placement of clutch arm or release fork pivot points, etc. Engineers can play with any of those factors to increase the leverage that the clutch arm has on depressing the pressure plate, but any increase in leverage will result in less distance traveled at the pressure plate, so there's a limit to how much leverage can be designed into the system. One thing that can be done to give more force at the pressure plate without a corresponding increase in pedal effort is to increase the clutch throw required to disengage the clutch; in other words, the distance you have to press the pedal. The celica probably has a shorter throw, which may be one reason for the greater effort required. Of course the celica probably also has a strong pressure plate, too.

I'm not trying to dis the Marlin clutch, btw - it's obviously a great clutch since every owner's report I've ever read has been very positive.

 

22R with 3/4 ton cargo, city traffic

Hi, I followed this thread closely and I think I understand the issues. Questions remain:
Is there are larger clutch master cylinder available for the 1-ton version?
Is the clutch in a 1-ton version heavier than a plain version?

I'm hoping that a marlin or other HD clutch will allow me to aggressively release the clutch when I really need extra power from a standing stop.

One thing I haven't seen come up in conversation is the role of the motor/tranny mounts in getting power to ground. My engine bounces when I release the clutch too quickly and I think that's soft motor mounts right?

 

The clutch assy and cylinders are the same.
You can get a aftermarket heavy duty clutch, but they tend to be noticeably stiff. Some people don't like how tiring it is on the leg in city driving where there's lots of shifting.

 

For comparison purposes please tell me the weight of the stock clutch in an ordinary 22r pickup.

NVM: stock weight is 900. I'm going for 1200.

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