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Hello, I’ve been obsessively reading these forums for awhile now but this is my first post. I recently purchased a 1994 Toyota pickup 3.0 California model. I know about the 22re vs 3VZE trade-offs already. 177,000 miles on it. Headgasket and valves were recently done before I purchased it.
It has developed a coolant leak that appears to be coming from a water bypass hose (16282-65010) where it meets the stem of the coolant pipe (16268-65011) near the back of the engine on the driver side. It usually drips down pretty fast at about two drops per second onto the exhaust pipe. Although sometimes it does not leak at all. But it quickly came to be that leaking more often than not is the norm.
My main questions are:
Has anyone had this problem and got away with just replacing the hose?
If I do need to replace the pipe due to corrosion how big of a job is it? Seems like a bit of a pain to get to since I really can’t even see where exactly it goes.
Is the fluid flowing into the hose out of the pipe stem? Or is the fluid flowing out of the hose into the pipe stem?
Any other related tips would be greatly appreciated as well.
Thanks for your time
Last edited by RupertsBodega; 02-18-2020 at 10:01 AM.
My first guess is that you've failed the rubber hose, not the metal pipe. But the only good way to tell (short of the "parts cannon") is to borrow a pressure tester from Autozone (or elsewhere) so you can pressurize the coolant system while the engine isn't running. It helps to spray the location with shop air when it starts leaking, if you have air. Otherwise, reach in there with some paper towels.
If it's the hose, you'll need the real part, because it's a molded hose and stock hose will just kink. https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/T...626765020.html The OEM part 16267-65020 isn't THAT expensive. For that matter, neither is the metal pipe.
The metal pipe is under the lower intake manifold. You'll have to remove the plenum (upper intake manifold), the fuel rails, and then the lower manifold. No picnic, but a heck of a lot better than losing coolant at that rate. Suck it up and work through it. Once you get that far, you WILL replace the pigtail from the knock sensor to the connector outside of the lower manifold. (And if you do go that route, I'd think long and hard about replacing the timing belt, too, while you're at it.)
Thank you for the quick and detailed response. The diagram you provided also helped a lot. I have already ordered an OEM Toyota hose so I’ll try that first and hope that is all I need to do. I’m going to flush the entire coolant system as well and replace with Toyota red since the PO appears to have had green in the reservoir.
The truck is indeed already throwing a knock sensor code that I’ve just been living with so if I need to tear into it for the pipe I’ll put that pigtail in. I’m assuming you’re of the opinion that the sensor itself is most likely working and the failure prone pigtail is the culprit? Timing belt is also a good call. It has been 100K since it has been replaced.
Thanks again for the help. It seems to be solved as of now. Hose was disintegrated and tore in half while gently trying to remove it. The metal pipe was pretty crusty but was not damaged or extremely corroded. Replaced the hose, did a coolant flush, and boiled the thermostat to check and make sure it wasn’t contributing to any overheating problems. No more leak and the temp gauge sits right in the middle of the slider.
02-18-2020, 09:52 AM
