Another *possible* timing chain thread
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another *possible* timing chain thread
So I've been doing a lot fo searching, and reading in my Chilton, FSM, 4crawler site ect on the timing chain topic.
My 86 4runner with 22re has just over 160k on the odo, and as far as I know its on the original timing chain. Things I've noticed are the oil guage in the cab reads low at idle, and goes to normal while driving. I'm either leaking or burning oil, because where it used to go up to mid range oil pressure, now only goes up to the first notch, unless I top it off.
Its been starting kind of rough, and I figure this may help my case, plus it probably needs to be done anyway. I was just wondering if this sounds anything like timing chain/oil pump related. I was going to go with an engnbldr kit with new timing cover and oil pump.
As far as the project goes, I'm not really worried about it, I've done some pretty heavy engine maintanence before on my old v6 mustang. I'm just reading up over and over about the distributer and timing, as thats about the only thing I've never dealt with.
My 86 4runner with 22re has just over 160k on the odo, and as far as I know its on the original timing chain. Things I've noticed are the oil guage in the cab reads low at idle, and goes to normal while driving. I'm either leaking or burning oil, because where it used to go up to mid range oil pressure, now only goes up to the first notch, unless I top it off.
Its been starting kind of rough, and I figure this may help my case, plus it probably needs to be done anyway. I was just wondering if this sounds anything like timing chain/oil pump related. I was going to go with an engnbldr kit with new timing cover and oil pump.
As far as the project goes, I'm not really worried about it, I've done some pretty heavy engine maintanence before on my old v6 mustang. I'm just reading up over and over about the distributer and timing, as thats about the only thing I've never dealt with.
#2
Registered User
Does the timing chain rattle at idle?
Are you getting blow by in the PCV valve?
Any blue smoke out of the tailpipe at start up or while driving?
How do the spark plugs look?
Where is the idle RPM at?
Are you getting blow by in the PCV valve?
Any blue smoke out of the tailpipe at start up or while driving?
How do the spark plugs look?
Where is the idle RPM at?
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2. I'll check the PCV valve as well tomorrow.
3. No blue smoke.
4. Plugs will be checked tomorrow.
5. Idle RPM stutters around 700 until warmed up, then sits closer to 900.
Tomorrow is my first day off to do any real investigation. I mean looking at the big picture, if I don't need to do it, I don't want to lol.
#4
Registered User
Well, you could be having couple of different things going on, but I'd make that you're timing chain is not rattling. It's unmistakeable. If it is, you should fix that asap. Otherwise, the stuttering and low idle may be from a poorly operating auxiliary air valve.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Something to keep in mine though is that currently my engine is a little low on oil. Currently while driving, my oil guage reads a max of 1/4. No oil lights or anyhting though. Not sure if that alone could cause the chatter. I won't be able to find out until tomorrow when I can put a little oil in and see if it quiets down. I don't get paid until tomorrow. I'll check out the plugs and get some pics up.
#7
That plug looks great.
Btw easiest way to tell if you need a timing chain, pop off the valve cover. Takes less than 10 mins, and you can inspect the chain, guides, and timing cover (look for grooves worn in the aluminum)
If you are wearing into the timing cover, replace the timing cover.
This, is bad:
Obviously you don't want those kind of wear marks on yours.
Btw easiest way to tell if you need a timing chain, pop off the valve cover. Takes less than 10 mins, and you can inspect the chain, guides, and timing cover (look for grooves worn in the aluminum)
If you are wearing into the timing cover, replace the timing cover.
This, is bad:
Obviously you don't want those kind of wear marks on yours.
Last edited by DeathCougar; 06-10-2010 at 02:43 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok cool, hopefully tomorrow I can drain her and check it out. She really needs a full blown oil change since I've just been topping her off anyway. Thanks for the advice.
As far as the plugs, yeah I thought they looked ok, I'm just wondering about the whole oil guage always reading low, which I'm sure could just be a wiring thing. And where my oil is going to.
As far as the plugs, yeah I thought they looked ok, I'm just wondering about the whole oil guage always reading low, which I'm sure could just be a wiring thing. And where my oil is going to.
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well my final verdict until I can get that valve cover off is that over all its in decent shape, and maybe its just way to damn hot here in AZ.
It sounds like the chain might be rubbing on the timing cover, so I'll see what it looks like tomorrow. Hopefully the guides and chain are in good shape, and I only need to change the cover.
As for the idle, just now when I started her up it went right to ~750-800 rpms, with no stuttering. I still haven't checked the PCV, so I'm going to look at it.
And I checked the oil on the dipstick, its low, but the oil looks good. No milkshake, no odd colors, no odd smell, just plain used motoroil.
It sounds like the chain might be rubbing on the timing cover, so I'll see what it looks like tomorrow. Hopefully the guides and chain are in good shape, and I only need to change the cover.
As for the idle, just now when I started her up it went right to ~750-800 rpms, with no stuttering. I still haven't checked the PCV, so I'm going to look at it.
And I checked the oil on the dipstick, its low, but the oil looks good. No milkshake, no odd colors, no odd smell, just plain used motoroil.
Last edited by Duckie; 06-10-2010 at 03:13 PM.
#10
Registered User
Oh wow. I guess you don't realize that IF it's wearing into the cover, your guide is already toast. Of course, then the chain is stretched beyond tolerances, as well. So, if you can't tell if the noise you're hearing from the front of the motor is chain on metal, you'll definitely know when you pull the cover off. If the chain's not through the guide, though, still look for significant wear on the guide.
It could be just the oil pressure switch is the cause of your low oil reading, but with enough wear it can be the pump or the cam and/or crank bearings,
It could be just the oil pressure switch is the cause of your low oil reading, but with enough wear it can be the pump or the cam and/or crank bearings,
#11
If its 160K on Orignial chain it needs replacing or else you will be replacing the Timing cover in another 40k. Oil pressure being low could be from thin oil weight and or oil pump worn out. A "tired" engine will have low oil pressure. Internal wear....
#12
Registered User
IF he doesn't pop some valves first.....ewww!
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well unfortunatly, I didn't look under the valve cover today. I did change the oil, but I had an incident involving my fiance's drivers door, the side of the garage opening, and my finger. Let just say I'm lucky to have my finger, but I royally fudged up the drivers door...I'll get some pics of that later lol.
Anyways, after a fresh fill with oil, she started up beautifully. That little bit of chatter I heard is totally gone. I think I was just running it too low on oil. I just need to stay on top of changing the oil next time. But I will continue to keep a close eye and ear on that front timing cover.
Anyways, after a fresh fill with oil, she started up beautifully. That little bit of chatter I heard is totally gone. I think I was just running it too low on oil. I just need to stay on top of changing the oil next time. But I will continue to keep a close eye and ear on that front timing cover.
#14
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
5 Posts
Check the timing cover!
It's really easy, as mentioned here already. The job is pretty manageable, especially if you've worked on cars before. Takes some patience and space to work, and more patience. There are GREAT writeups with tons of photos online, when you decide to do it. The ENGNBLDR kit is cheap at $150 or so on FleaBay. You may want to upgrade your cam while you're at it - he sells those too for about $100.
It's due for a new chain anyway.....
Good luck!
It's really easy, as mentioned here already. The job is pretty manageable, especially if you've worked on cars before. Takes some patience and space to work, and more patience. There are GREAT writeups with tons of photos online, when you decide to do it. The ENGNBLDR kit is cheap at $150 or so on FleaBay. You may want to upgrade your cam while you're at it - he sells those too for about $100.
It's due for a new chain anyway.....
Good luck!
#15
Check the timing cover. Don't just assume that because you think the noise is gone, everything is A-ok. If your timing set really does have 160K on it, its due to fail at any minute. Don't delay getting that looked at, or you will be kicking yourself all the way to Engnbldrs bank
#17
Registered User
Chuck Norris could do it with his toes.....blind folded.....and drunk.......while juggling your arms after he's ripped them off.........and set them on fire........
Last edited by thook; 06-12-2010 at 06:45 AM.
#18
Registered User
yea dont delay...if I remember correctly if you wear through the timing cover it goes into a water jacket(chime in if im wrong)
also its real easy to pull the valve cover and inspect it.4 bolts for valve cover and I believe 2 or 3 more for misc stuff on the valve cover. It happened on my 92 truck after I sold it and he had to replace the motor.(I did tell him it was needed when I sold it he just never did it)
also its real easy to pull the valve cover and inspect it.4 bolts for valve cover and I believe 2 or 3 more for misc stuff on the valve cover. It happened on my 92 truck after I sold it and he had to replace the motor.(I did tell him it was needed when I sold it he just never did it)
#19
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
check the thread link i posted....it's a DEFINITE that it will wear through once the guide is gone if you let it go.
YUP!...a definite.
YUP!...a definite.
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll have to check it on my next 2 days off. (My weekend is thursday and friday.) Probably on Friday, since thursday is my fiance's bierthday. Though I won't be able to get the kit until my next paycheck. So hopefully its not in absolute dire need of changing and can hold on for a few more weeks.
I found his FEK on ebay, so I'll keep it saved until my next paycheck.
Edit: Hey Philbert, about the cam. Would I be able to do a cam swap with just the FEK, or would I need some other install kit to do the cam job? Thanks.
I found his FEK on ebay, so I'll keep it saved until my next paycheck.
Edit: Hey Philbert, about the cam. Would I be able to do a cam swap with just the FEK, or would I need some other install kit to do the cam job? Thanks.
Last edited by Duckie; 06-12-2010 at 10:49 AM.