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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Another issue with rear window

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Old 02-04-2015, 06:53 PM
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I put a tailgate motor from a '92 into my '87 Runner. It works fine.
You will have to splice your old plug onto the newer motor though, first and 2nd gen motor plugs are different.

I am fairly confident that any first or 2nd gen drivers side door motor can be made to work, as well.

Some 1980s' Toyota passenger cars also have similar motors.

Passenger side motors are mirror image, and so they won't bolt up.

All these motors only use 2 wires. One polarity is up and the other is down.

I thought that the PO had screwed my window wiring up, but he had nothing on your guy!!

Last edited by millball; 02-04-2015 at 07:03 PM.
Old 02-04-2015, 07:12 PM
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I think the guy I got it from got it that way he bought it off a 16 yr old who got it 4 his 16th b day the guy I bought it from said he couldn't even shift it when he got it I bet the relay went out awhile ago so the kids hacked it up trying to get it to work. The guy also told me all he had to do was tighten the tranny all the way to the motor it was just loose. So what basically happened I believe is grandpa gave it to his grandson kid got his first car and beat the crap out of it with his buddy and then fam paid for stuff to get fixed and the kid sold it.

What about v6 runners same motor and such ? There are no first gen runners in the yards for over 100 miles away the only one came on in November and I've already pulled what I could there are however hundreds of 3.0s is the yards and what do u think I can expect to pay for a working motor
Old 02-04-2015, 07:14 PM
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So being identical to the door ones wouldn't it be much more weight to push up the rear window then the passenger or driver no wonder they go out all the time
Old 02-04-2015, 07:17 PM
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Tailgate motor is the same regardless of 4 or 6 cyl.

I think at a pick-n-pull type place they should'nt be more than $5 or $10.

Try to get one from a rear door, rather than from the drivers door, on the theory that a back window might have seen less use.
Old 02-04-2015, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by millball
Tailgate motor is the same regardless of 4 or 6 cyl. I think at a pick-n-pull type place they should'nt be more than $5 or $10. Try to get one from a rear door, rather than from the drivers door, on the theory that a back window might have seen less use.
Gotcha yea I just looked it up there are about 20 v6 2nd gen runners in the yards around here that would be nice if there that cheap they charged me 20 bucks for a seat belt from a Isuzu trooper ( they fit direct in the rear so you have should strap seat belts
Old 02-04-2015, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by punks_is_4x4
So being identical to the door ones wouldn't it be much more weight to push up the rear window then the passenger or driver no wonder they go out all the time
The original motor from my '87 Runner tailgate appears to have a slightly beefier armature and field frame that the one from the '92 that I replaced it with.

In service the new, smaller motor seems to have the power that it needs though.

Whether it will last as long as the original one did; Who knows??

The newer motors may have been able to be made smaller because better high density field magnets became available.
Old 02-04-2015, 08:03 PM
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Well it does come down to new or older technology I love old cars but there's a reason we have new ones yea I know everyone likes to make money but new technology has proven beneficial so now I will search all over now for a good motor to switch out is the process fairly simple obviously I have to splice a new plug but that's simple enough with quick connects
Old 02-04-2015, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by punks_is_4x4
Well it does come down to new or older technology I love old cars but there's a reason we have new ones yea I know everyone likes to make money but new technology has proven beneficial so now I will search all over now for a good motor to switch out is the process fairly simple obviously I have to splice a new plug but that's simple enough with quick connects
If you want your electrical repairs to be reliable and durable, solder and heat shrink are your friends.
Old 02-05-2015, 04:12 AM
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Use some silicone spray in the window track. It can cause alot of friction and put a lot of stress on the motor. You will need to work it into the rubber but it will slide so much easier. Works great on your manual windows as well.
Old 02-05-2015, 06:11 AM
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When I was looking for a new motor for my 86 runner all the junk yards wanted $50 because they would't separate the motor from the regulator.
Old 02-05-2015, 07:23 AM
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All the u pull it yards out here don't care cuz I'm out there pulling all the parts my self it's a free for all kinda a weird place some times random people popping out of now where sometime and spook ya.
Replacing the motor doesn't look like it will be to hard I could only find 2 screws on it attached to the regulator
Old 02-05-2015, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by punks_is_4x4
... I bet the relay went out awhile ago so the kids hacked it up trying to get it to work...
Or something else was wrong, but kid does not know how to properly troubleshoot so he hacked the wiring.

Find a good motor, test the relay (from my post on how rear window works), restore wiring to stock.
Old 02-07-2015, 10:59 AM
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K going to the yard today there's 3 runners and 1 pickup there are there any other models that had the same motor Corolla Camry tercel anything like that ? Supra
Old 02-07-2015, 07:42 PM
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4 dr camry rear drivers side motor is a good fit an is slightly faster with the window updown

if you look around yotatech you will find wiring diagrams that can help you properly fix the tailgate wiring the window relay is in the side fender an the internal relays (theres 2 in it) are easy to replace if you can soldier

best option would be finding the tailgate harness and the console one so you can fix the butchering job

as for the mud your drain holes are clogged an the window seal is leaking your looking for a rusted out gate if you dont get it fixed

the large connector in the picture you showed has/should have a clip to hold it higher in the gate keeping it out of the way of the regulator it feeds power to your plate lights an key switch controls
Old 02-07-2015, 08:18 PM
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Getting it back to stock is the eventual plan for now I just want it working till I can find or get a good harness and maybe a whole new regulator as well
To clean this out should I just rinse it out and poke through the drain holes?
Old 02-07-2015, 08:34 PM
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absolutely the dirt an such could use to be rinsed out as well so it dries out well till you can get the window seal
Old 02-07-2015, 10:47 PM
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There are drain holes in the wheel wells behind your tires, in the doors, and rocker panels that get clogged with dirt. I try to vacuum them out first, then use an air hose to blow the dust out and then clear the drain holes with a wire or something similar. Looking from the bottom of the truck, they look like little "V" notches for drains.
Old 02-08-2015, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Terrys87
There are drain holes in the wheel wells behind your tires, in the doors, and rocker panels that get clogged with dirt. I try to vacuum them out first, then use an air hose to blow the dust out and then clear the drain holes with a wire or something similar. Looking from the bottom of the truck, they look like little "V" notches for drains.
all that mud i think is in his gate terry but yes theres drain slots in the fenders as well
Old 02-08-2015, 09:48 AM
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Yea gate is muddy on the inside I think it's because the seal at the bottom of the tail gate meets the body is not snug and a bumper would help I'm sure I gotta give it a bath today
Old 02-18-2015, 08:09 AM
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Got a new motor for it from autozone for 55
It's a driver side re manufactured motor runs super fast. now I will look for a new regulator with wiring still intact and a new harness for it and probably a new window eventually the bottom bracket on the window is really rusted I would like to have the rear defrost.
this summer I want to take the top off and let it really air out I think there is a lot of moisture stuck in the cab because the sun came out for a bit yesterday and all of the windows were completely fogged up
Toyota no longer makes the wiring harness otherwise I would buy it new just for dependability
The junk yards are pretty slim pickings for 1st gen runners and pickups there are plenty of 3.0 2nd gens up here but craigslist is pretty much the best bet looking for parts up here so many yota guys and gals out side of Portland the rest of oregon is covered in real "northwesterners" so chances are trying to get a good condition regulator and harness is looking expensive. I might be able to salvage the wiring for the rest of it but I'd need some new plugs for the loose wires and will definitely need a new regulator.


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