Here is the latest on my problem.I can jump my starter with my charger/booster.So the starter is good.I am not getting fire to the plugs so I checked the distributor and no voltage while cranking.No voltage to the coil while key is in run position.I put a known good computer in and checked again with same results.I checked the main line from battery to the fuse/relay box by the battery and there is voltage getting in there.All fuses in truck and in relay box are good.I did clean , sand and reinstalled the ground points on engine and checked the grounds with one probe of voltmeter on pos on the battery and the other on each ground and they all show good ground.I have battery voltage to the big wire on starter all the time.No voltage to the little wire going to the starter while cranking.Headlights and dash all light up while key in run and start position.
I think its an electrical issue in the wiring harness but why?All I did was remove the head and then reinstall it.Engine started and ran perfect before I did that.Am I looking up the right road to getting this fixed?Just dont understand whats going on here.I think I have told you everything I know but I sure need your help.Got me baffled.Thanks again for all the help.

 

You may need to check the continuity on all of the relevant leads on your harness. I can be that one or more wires were damaged during the head work.

But, i feel it's more likely another electrical component. What I would do if I am not getting any spark is start checking wires and components from the coil back to the computer and ignition switch.. etc.

 

I thought that maybe the harness got pinched somewhere but I did a quick check and it looked good.Ill try and do a better search on the wiring harness from the coil back see what happens. Hey thanks so much really appreciate your help.

 

Think maybe the ignition switch.Can u give me some info on how to check that out to be sure.I have no power to coil no power to the little wire to starter when cranking.Headlights and dash lights do come on though.Guy put a new ignition lock in not an ignition switch before I bought it.Need to start weeding things out to get it running

 

TO be honest, I'm not sure the order of events that takes place. I figure the coil should not get juice until the engine is starting/started. People who know this for sure should respond.

To test the ignition switch you have some options. Tear it out and test it in a controlled test, jump the starter solenoid cable (don't hurt yourself), find wiring diagram in FSM and test through the wires... perhaps there are other ways.

I'm not to convinced it would be the ignition switch since, as I mentioned earlier, I don't know the exact order of operations for what component gets power when.

 

I just took a look at the 22RE's ignition switch wiring diagram. It's straight forward. If your ignitionswitch and subsequent electrical wires to the coil and igniter (shows to be same wire) are working, then you should have power on one of the leads to the coil. If you do not, check the wire that comes from under the drivers side dash to the coil, use multimeter and do a continuity and resistance test. If that passes, then the next thing up the line is the ignition switch.

 

Yeah I dont know what to do.Never had any problem with anything electrical till I put the head back on.Im thinking I should take the wirimg harness all the way off and give it a close look.Maybe somethings unplugged or got pulled or cut or pinched.I figure just backtrack what I did maybe I can find whats wrong.

 

Can you tell me if this is correct.Coming off the battery is one thin wire from the negative post going to a ground next to the relay box.One large thick wire going from the negative post down to the a/c bracket bolt for another ground.On the positive post I have a thick wire coming off going into the underside of the relay box and another one coming out of the harness there going to the starter bolt.

 

I think you missed a ground. Only thing that makes sense.
Go over the grounds.

 

These are the grounds that I took off and sanded down cleaned and reattachef.One from the back of the head on the hook for lifting the engine goes to the firewall.The other ground came off the harness by the alternator grounds to the power steering bracket.Another one goes from battery negative to a/ c bracket and the last one comes off the harness in between the intake manifolds and gets grounded on the manifold bolt.I cant figure this thing out.Thinking maybe the ignition switch just went bad.How can I determine that though.

 

It sounds like you got the grounds.

You have a copy of the fsm? might go over switch in there.

I hate to throw parts at something.

If it were the switch...it sure picked a terrible time.

Obviously it is something to do with the head removal/re install.

Im sure you checked fuses right?

 

Im gonna tear into it in the morning.Yeah fuses all good.Your right about the ignition switch going bad at a great time.I had a distributor crash out on me years ago with no warning.I just cant believe the hard luck im having trying to get this back on the road.Keep telling myself it has to be something easy.All I did was to remove the head and reinstall it. I never messed with the wiring harness or ignition switch everything worked.Just feels like I am overlooking something simple. but I sure hope a solution comes soon.

 

larry1845, did you test your ignition wiring system? It should be a quick test actually and if it tests positive atleast you know for sure it's not the switch or wiring.

Also, test the continuity of the relevant fuses.. although rare, they can go bad without it being visible. Should be a 2 min test with a multimeter.

 

Thats what I have been asking for is info on checking the ignition system.I have no idea but I know how to follow directions.No power to coil no power to starter little wire when trying to crank.Power to big wire on starter and power to fuse/ relay box all hrounds are good.What now

 

Ok. just to make sure, you tested the power to the coil after the ignition was turned to 'on' position right? (not 'acc' )..

Ok, you may have missed my post above with this diagram. Here it is again. Use this diagram and find the corresponding wires in your truck and follow them from the battery terminal to the ignition switch. test the fuse and relays for continuity that are between the battery and the ignition switch.

To test the ignition switch, use a multimeter (or a test light) and find the wire that goes from the ignition switch to the coil/igniter. Make sure you ground the multimeter well!! Test the wire at the coil/igniter, if no power, test where the wire connects to the ignitions switch, if no power test the wire at both ends of the connector under the dash ( i assume there is a connector to unplug the ignition switch from the wiring harness) If there is no power keep going and test the input end of the ignition switch, if there is power coming right to the ignition switch and not OUT of the ignition switch to the coil, then it is your ignition switch. (make sure ignition switch is on 'on') If there is no power coming into the ignition switch on the wire that is coming from the 30A fuse, then you have to figure out where along the line between the battery and the ignition switch the flow is broken. I reserve the right to be completely wrong here. But, this is what I would do to determine the problem.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2systemci.pdf

 

Great Thanx for the detailed info.I talked to a toyota mechanic today and he said he doubt the ignition dwitch is bad.Told me the wiring harness gets chafed in three different places and told me where to look for that and what wires to run down.Said the harness will rub and actually break the wired he has seen right at the fuel rail and at the intake and plenum.Also seen it rub to where it touches other wires in the harness from where the harness gets wrapped by the battery box going under the manifold to starter.He said I definately had a wiri.g problem and he would almost count on the harness.I bent the harness back quite a bit to get everything out of the way when I put that head back on.I wanted to make sure I have a clear path putting the head on the engine that I bent the wiring harness and the manifold back towards the passenger fender. I'll bet I broke a wire or it rubbed through and grounded that wire out.Ill find out when I pull that wiring harness and check each wire I'll let everyone know. thanks so much for your help I appreciate it

 

Okay I got this thing started and running good. Wanna thank everyone for the advice and all the help.
I got my brother to come over and we pulled the wiring harness. We checked the wires one by one all the way from the plug in to the computer to the very end at the coil and mass air intake.
We found two broken wires and one was rubbed down and they were all at the harness that comes through
the intake and goes along the back firewall. They were small wires and once we stripped and repaired these we plugged it all back in and it started right up.
Really didn't think the little wires were a big deal but I guess it all comes together somewhere and all works all together.
Back on the road thanks for all your help.I appreciate it.

 

Good to hear. Just takes some courage to get your hands dirty

 

Hi guys!
Picked up Ruby Tuesday from local shop yesterday after engine rebuild. I think I can feel more power now, although because I'm on break-in period I'm not about to test her, yet.
I had an intermittent issue after leaving the shop, and mechs troubleshot it to 2 broken wires (White with red stripe & white. Haven't looked at schematic, yet) on engine harness- the one that goes from right-side firewall to under an around the throttle body/intake manifold). Anyway, it's quite understandable for it to happen during engine pull and re-install, given the old and brittle wires.
To prevent any future problems with this harness, I'm considering:

• Buying brand-new replacement - Does anyone know source for this engine harness?
• Rewiring myself - This would be a lot of downtime, and hard to find exactly same color wire as stock.

If you've had first-hand experience with either, please share your insights?

TIA,
RAD

 

did you ever find a harness or connectors? I've got an 86 with some connectors that are broken and zip tied together (on important things) who knows if they are making good connections.