alternator pain in my !!!
#22
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I looked at the proper schematic. Small white is constant 12v, no switch (am1 40amp fuse). It is for the regulator and should not draw power unless red (ign) is 12v.
If it is drawing power with the red switched off then your regulator in the alternator is ng.
If it is drawing power with the red switched off then your regulator in the alternator is ng.
#23
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On the subject of heat shrink, the OP mentioned he used marine heat shrink, in my mind it probably is the same as what the automotive group calls adhesive heat shrink, or sealing heat shrink which has a melt-able glue inside that seals the connection. Only down side, is it can't be used where the temp gets too hot and melts the glue. I'm not sure what temp that is though.
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It's funny how everything is kinda pointing to the alternator. My luck I've probably got 3 bad parts from the store In a row.
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On the subject of heat shrink, the OP mentioned he used marine heat shrink, in my mind it probably is the same as what the automotive group calls adhesive heat shrink, or sealing heat shrink which has a melt-able glue inside that seals the connection. Only down side, is it can't be used where the temp gets too hot and melts the glue. I'm not sure what temp that is though.
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#28
hmmm...
There are two wires connected to battery negative post; One goes to the fender, the other to the block. How are you able to measure all current flow? Which ground wire/cable are you connecting ammeter in series with?
Why not in series with the fusible link wire? That way you'll measure ALL current flow.
There are two wires connected to battery negative post; One goes to the fender, the other to the block. How are you able to measure all current flow? Which ground wire/cable are you connecting ammeter in series with?
Why not in series with the fusible link wire? That way you'll measure ALL current flow.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 09-26-2016 at 06:31 PM.
#29
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hmmm...
There are two wires connected to battery negative post; One goes to the fender, the other to the block. How are you able to measure all current flow? Which ground wire/cable are you connecting ammeter in series with?
Why not in series with the fusible link wire? That way you'll measure ALL current flow.
There are two wires connected to battery negative post; One goes to the fender, the other to the block. How are you able to measure all current flow? Which ground wire/cable are you connecting ammeter in series with?
Why not in series with the fusible link wire? That way you'll measure ALL current flow.
#30
Sorry, still unclear.
So...
THICK negative cable that connects to engine block is unhooked from battery and you insert the ammeter between that and battery.
Ground wire to fender is still connected?
Then you are not measuring current through the fender ground wire.
So...
THICK negative cable that connects to engine block is unhooked from battery and you insert the ammeter between that and battery.
Ground wire to fender is still connected?
Then you are not measuring current through the fender ground wire.
#31
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Disconnect negative cable from battery.. install lead 1 to battery cable lug end. Connect lead 2 to negative battery post. Not disconnecting anything from engine block or fender.
#32
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Ya it's the glue inside heat shrink. Keeps the water out. It's well enough away from any heat source. Of course if it's near anything hot enough to remedy the glue it will more than likely fry the shrink and wire as well. I also use an electrical wrap, kinda looks like thick electrical tape, but no glue. It sticks to itself. Great stuff. Use it to make tool handle grips, on electrical wire, handles heat well and super abrasion resistant.
Anyway to be on topic, pretty sure it doesn't matter which battery post you use as long as the amp meter is between the post on the battery and the harness terminal/clamp since either way the power flows though the meter. I learned the same method, negative off and meter between from my dad which works on cars for a living.
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I've heard of that kind of wrap used to make wire harnesses (the outer wrapping). I've been using Scotch Super 33+ which is a vinyl electrical tape (like the electrical tape from 20 years ago) and some wire harness tubing. Both very expensive but seems to work well. What kind of cost is the wrap you're talking about and where can you get
Anyway to be on topic, pretty sure it doesn't matter which battery post you use as long as the amp meter is between the post on the battery and the harness terminal/clamp since either way the power flows though the meter. I learned the same method, negative off and meter between from my dad which works on cars for a living.
Anyway to be on topic, pretty sure it doesn't matter which battery post you use as long as the amp meter is between the post on the battery and the harness terminal/clamp since either way the power flows though the meter. I learned the same method, negative off and meter between from my dad which works on cars for a living.
I prefer to do the negative versus poitive so no accidental grounding and fireworks.
#34
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Yea that is the reason my dad said to use the ground instead of positive.
If you would, I'd be interested in the model number, or some way to reference the exact product. That will make the online search easier and might be able to find bulk for cheaper price after I sample a roll . I do know 3m makes very good stuff and generally it has a price to reflect the quality lol.
If you would, I'd be interested in the model number, or some way to reference the exact product. That will make the online search easier and might be able to find bulk for cheaper price after I sample a roll . I do know 3m makes very good stuff and generally it has a price to reflect the quality lol.
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Yea that is the reason my dad said to use the ground instead of positive.
If you would, I'd be interested in the model number, or some way to reference the exact product. That will make the online search easier and might be able to find bulk for cheaper price after I sample a roll . I do know 3m makes very good stuff and generally it has a price to reflect the quality lol.
If you would, I'd be interested in the model number, or some way to reference the exact product. That will make the online search easier and might be able to find bulk for cheaper price after I sample a roll . I do know 3m makes very good stuff and generally it has a price to reflect the quality lol.
#36
Scotch 70 maybe?:
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Self-F.../dp/B0029Z5RSY
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/3...y-empalmar.PDF
Here's F4:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LA2258...ing=UTF8&psc=1
I need to look into this stuff myself.
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Self-F.../dp/B0029Z5RSY
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/3...y-empalmar.PDF
Here's F4:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LA2258...ing=UTF8&psc=1
I need to look into this stuff myself.
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So update.. hunts took the front seat to the yota. So I checked voltage at the red ignition wire. No reading key off. 12v key on. Reading through all the suggestions and other posts, I'm thinking that the alternator is yet again no good. More likely the regulator / diodes. I'm getting good at pulling this alternator.
#40