AFM installed…and it runs like crap?!
02-20-2011, 01:38 PM
#102
Also to help you understand that tube with the little filter on it ties into the PAIR system that is connected to the underside of the intake. The air at that point doesn't need to be metered via the afm since it doesn't have a direct correlation with how much air is going into the intake and how much fuel is needed for said air. Does that make sense? Basically the air from that tube doen't matter when being considered for combustion in the motor. It's more or less a silencer of sorts.
02-20-2011, 01:43 PM
#105
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Gotchya! I thought it was actually part of the intake seeings how he was talking about the resonator pipe. I was picturing something different. Thanks for the info!
02-20-2011, 01:45 PM
#106
also, on the stock air box, it draws air from before the meter. if you want to put it on the main air-intake pipe, go for it
Last edited by irab88; 02-20-2011 at 01:47 PM.
02-20-2011, 03:47 PM
#107
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has anyone who has shortened that hose and moved it to the passenger side noticed any difference? just wondering if it's worth the trouble.
02-20-2011, 04:55 PM
#109
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but, what i was wondering is....did you notice any difference by moving just the small hose that connects to the resonator? i saw someone on here that did that, thought it was you, and i wasn't sure why they did it. i assume any cooler air is better for the motor.
02-25-2011, 08:12 AM
#111
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*UPDATE*
So, it's been almost a week now since i worked on the truck. i've had a chance to drive it a few times this week and run it down the highway for a couple of one hour round trip drives.
well, last saturday i reset the ECU and checked all of my intake connections. i found that all of the clamps on the intake from the AFM to the TB were actually kind of loose. so, i tightened all of the clamps pretty tight and crossed my fingers.
first day i drove it i noticed a difference. the truck ran great and had a noticeable amount of more power and ran really smooth through all five gears. seems strange to me that air getting in behind the AFM could cause a loss of power, but i can only say that i know what i feel driving the truck now. and, after this week, knock on wood, no more check engine light.
thanks again for all of the advice everyone.
next up....new wheels and possibly 33x10.50x15 BFG AT tires. maybe.
So, it's been almost a week now since i worked on the truck. i've had a chance to drive it a few times this week and run it down the highway for a couple of one hour round trip drives.
well, last saturday i reset the ECU and checked all of my intake connections. i found that all of the clamps on the intake from the AFM to the TB were actually kind of loose. so, i tightened all of the clamps pretty tight and crossed my fingers.
first day i drove it i noticed a difference. the truck ran great and had a noticeable amount of more power and ran really smooth through all five gears. seems strange to me that air getting in behind the AFM could cause a loss of power, but i can only say that i know what i feel driving the truck now. and, after this week, knock on wood, no more check engine light.
thanks again for all of the advice everyone.
next up....new wheels and possibly 33x10.50x15 BFG AT tires. maybe.
02-25-2011, 08:17 AM
#112
Well, any air leaking in past the AFM is unmetered. That means the ECU does not know that air is there, so does not add enough fuel for it to burn. Plus, the more unmetered air that leaks in means that there is less metered air, so less fuel and the air/fuel mixture is all off, so less power or no power is the result.
02-25-2011, 01:01 PM
#113
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so, i've done the swap to several rigs and never had the issue you are talking about. i'm about a half hour or so away from stumptown. i've ripped these trucks apart up and down. instead of pulling the neg cable, pull the big black ECU fuse in the box under the hood on the pass side. can't miss it. pull it out for about a half hour. i could probably meet you somewhere out by engnbldr's place and go from there. you would be amazed how ez a fix can be sometimes, the 'ol homer simpson response. how did you cure your resonator pipe? you know the small one that pipes into the stock box?
94 p/u 4x4 22re all stock. I am having the SAME PROBLEM I bought a $200 re-manufactured unit. It has the correct part number on it. This thing about pulling the fuse. Might be a dumb question but should I still have battery power while it "resets" or should I disconnect neg and the fuse?
02-26-2011, 09:03 AM
#116
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Thanks for the reply. I disconnected both last night to ensure a good reset. I am about to get up and turn her back on. Guess we'll see
03-07-2011, 08:30 PM
#118
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anyone in the portland area have complete front and rear 4.88 geared third's for sale for a good price? basically, looking for used, as low mileage as possible, V6 4Runner rear axle and IFS front diff.
also, weeks later and the truck is still running great. be sure to keep the intake tight folks.
03-08-2011, 06:07 AM
#120
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i can't speak for anyone els, but yes, i have swapped in a new AFM, then went back to the original AFM, and then back again to a new AFM and the truck ran just fine with the original AFM installed, but that's because i reset the ECM.
