hose clamp good, add tube bad...change add tube, don't need hose clamp.

 

So i finally got to upload my pics of the conversion! installing the manual hubs was very easy! just take off the hub plate, and bolt on the manual hubs. here the part on getting the third member to lock in 4wd.

maybe the mods can make this a sticky??


here is the third member with the actuator off.


heres a close up of the ring that slides over the gear to lock the 4wd. there is a fork on the actuator that slides on the ring and moves it over the gear. but, unfortunately, the vaccum doesnt work and that is why i did the manual hub conversion.


you just slide it to the side with your finger.


and then it looks like this when the 4wd is engaged. this is what the actuator fork does when the vacuum pushes the fork over the gear.


this is the picture of the actuator. notice the "fork"....


this is what i did to keep the fork from moving back to the unlock position. that way, the 4wd stays locked all the time, and you can just lock, or unlock the hubs to work the 4wd.


putting the actuator back on. make sure to line up the fork so it slides onto the ring. (i tightened the hose clamp before i installed the actuator)




now just put some gasket maker and torque down the bolts. you can plug the vacuum line when its all done....


and heres a picture of the Non-ADD third member. notice it doesnt have all the actuator crap on it. this is why everyone says to just swap out the tube when doing the manual hub conversion.


compared to the ADD.

 

I am doing an sas on my 88 4runner can I use that front axle?

(dumb question) does this help with normal street driving gas mileage? the 3v is a gas hog!

 

No, you cannot use an IFS third for an SAS (Solid Axle Swap).

Yes, removing the splined hubs and replacing them with manual hubs can improve fuel economy.

Agreed, the 3vze is not the most efficient engine in terms of fuel consumption (especially in relation to horsepower/torque).

Welcome to YT.

 

Subscribed...

 

Thank you.
Sorry Iguess you cant read my mind!LOL!
What I meant was my 88 runner is getting the solid axle And I have a 92 runner with add, and was wondering if I could use the 88 ifs carrier, hubs, and axles on my 92 to eliminate the add?

Thanks again.

 

should be able to swap in the hubs from the 88. your 92's ADD actuator can be disabled like in the pic. reason for not just swapping them outright is that we don't know what gearing you've got in one vs the other. if you KNOW they're the same then you're good to go, but most likely your 88 has a 22re/4.10 gearing and your 92 has a 3slow/4.56 or 4.88 gearing. i'd sell 88 IFS diff and put that $ towards your projects.

 

I figured the gearing would be different as the 92 is automatic and the 88 is a manual/22re
I was kinda hoping I could split the cases like the rear axle center section and wam bam thank you mamm easy swap!

Wouldnt be my first foolish toyota thought though!LOL!

 

As discussed earlier in this thread, you can just swap the driver side axle tube from your 88 carrier onto your 92 carrier. That way you will have no more ADD, and a stronger axle.

Thanks for clearing that up. Make sure to start a thread with pics of your SAS. We always enjoy watching others' rigs come together.

 

my sas is still in the parts gathering phase but I will be taking pics for everyone to enjoy! Thanks again.

 

subscribed!....great wright up....so if I change my drivers side ADD stub to a NON ADD stub axle and install manual hubs then my cv shafts will only turn when i manually lock the hubs? that is what I wanting to do to save on some wear and tear on some constantly moving cvs

also have another question:...the flanges that the cvs bolt to on the stub axles, do they have a wheel bearing there like the rear axles?....if so, I also think mine is bad on the passenger side has a lot of play and a roughness when turned

 

just installing the hubs will prevent the axles from turning. you dont HAVE to swap out the stubs...

the bearings are on the third member itself. the flanges are attached to an even shorter stub, which goes into the diff. the diff is supported by 2 bearings in the 3rd member...

make sense?

 

there is a brass bearing in the hub that will make the grinding sound. the new ones from toyota are needle bearings with a smaller brass bushing to cap it off.

 

yes makes sense.....pardon me I didn't realize I was hijacking here...

I looked at the fsm break down on the differential carrier with ADD components, and saw what your talking about
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...f/differen.pdf

I have lots of play in and out/up and down in this right side gear shaft( borrowed this pic,red arrow)...is this normal?...I checked out my buddy IFS he has manual hubs and his side shaft flange has no play and 160,000 miles....so I'm thinking that his is normal and mine is not....and could be possibly contributing to some of my vibrations sense the cvs turn all the time

 

Ok i dont see what is being pushed over in KODE's second pic do you push the ring over the gear to the right then put back in the fork and hose clamp? And this can be done with the 3rd member under the truck right it does not have to be removed?

 

lol i did mine with it in the truck, just take out the bolts and tap the back with a hammer and itll start leaking gear oil into the oil pan you have underneath of it. once you feel comfortable crack it more and let it drain. follow the instructions here and then wipe it super clean gasket maker it and button it up. pretty easy to do under there overall.

 

hello all

bumping this for the sake of clarification.

i have been searching and reading on this and because people either provide all sorts of specifics about going from this truck to that one (or because they write like 8 year olds), things are not as clear as they should be and the general rules on this swap .

so, here we go, true or false on any or all of these (assumptions) about ADD to non-ADD conversions (i.e. retaining the ADD diff):

- the purpose of swapping manual hubs and non-ADD tube (and axle) into an ADD equipped rig is to be able to gain control of when the passenger side axle and CV spin (with ADD and auto hubs it is always spinning). a new side axle seal must be pressed into the ADD diff prior to bolting on the non-ADD axle tube. the non-ADD axle is also stronger than the ADD one.

- swapping out the tube and axle is not the only way to get the passenger side axle to stop spinning. locking the fork in place while retaining the ADD parts (but disconnecting the ADD stuff) and installing manual hubs (from an IFS truck or 4runner) will do the same --> http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/

- non-ADD tubes and axles can be sourced from 4 cyl or 6 cyl trucks and 4runner

can someone please correct me if any of the above is not right? thanks

 

All the above sounds correct.

Also, another option is that you can actually retain the ADD functionality with manual hubs. Unlock the hubs and you have nothing spinning up front, but lock the hubs and you have essentially the original ADD setup (locked hubs = drive flanges) and you can shift on the fly as desired.

 

How does one go about doing this? Can someone direct me to a write-up or explain?

Thanks

 

are you saying that once the ADD tube is removed it is not possible to shift on the fly?

my understanding is that shift on the fly won't be affected if you a) lock the fork and removing the ADD stuff and/or b) remove the ADD tube/axle and replace with non-ADD parts

or am i missing something more subtle in your clarification? thanks