from the outside - looking at a closed blower door

looking up at where the blower motor sits - rusted out due to mouse pee

 

In case you need them, I have these. PM me and we'll work something out. I haven't even cleaned those up. That's just how they came out. I haven't ever actually looked them over until now. I bet mine aren't that clean.

 

Found a better way to "patch" the hole I had drilled to access the mouse nest in the damper gate....

2" plumbing plug
I had to cut down the bolt to clear the cowl piece
I may have to clearance the wing nut too - we'll see
For now it seems to fit but we'll see how bad it rattles....

 

NAPA for the win<br/>High side cheap adapter fits<br/>Lo side fits, but you will never be able to connect the manifold<br/><br/>I put right angle adapters on both sides<br/>Steel ones<br/>From NAPA



This was after vac via the blower motor hole



Ick



Washed with dish soap and a rag <br/>I took it out of the box!<br/><br/>Did not get water in the tube<br/>Blew it all off with compressed air



Still more poop<br/>Blower box



Static pressure<br/>Yeah, I didn't know to burp it<br/>Gonna have a shop pull it, and I'll re charge it after I add a new drier



Running pressures are ok<br/><br/>Blows 45<br/>After 2 hours of driving at 95 deg, blows 55 <br/><br/>I'll get the air out and I think it will be fine

 

Thanks to this forum for all the help!!!!

 

These are the steel ones from NAPA
The alum ones from ACPros / Pep Boys are free to anyone that wants mine
PM me

The steel ones from NAPA have a swivel nut
You have to pull the R12 core before attaching em

But since they swivel, you can accurately clock em!





See how tight the low side would be after attaching a straight adapter

 

I ordered a new Denso Reciever Dryer

Th eplan is to replace all the O Rings in the grille area and the new dryer, obviously.

 

Don't forget to start spraying down those condenser lines withe penetrating oil. A lot of times it's not the threads you need to worry about but where the nut spins around the line behind it that will give you the most trouble. If it is stuck there, you may not know it until the nut finally turns on the threads and you see your line bend or break. On rubber lines, you'll notice them trying to twist but on the little metal ones, it's not as obvious.

 

Been doing that.
Thanks for the reminder.

 

So the frame cross member in the corner is getting scary
Gonna have my shop guy look at it
He builds race cars, so I trust his welding

 

I get home an theres an email from DenspProducts.com
which is actually SparkPlugs.com

I ordered an OEM Receiver Dryer for the 4Runner

you order on 8/6/2016
your order will ship on 10/1/2016

I guess they have to crank up the assembly line?

 

When Amazon corrects my order, I'll have two of them. I'll send you one of them if you need me to. Not sure when the replacement from Amazon will get here but will probably be here by Wednesday.

 

Just as a reference.
I took the truck on a road trip (2+ hours each way) in the 100 degree heat.
The AC would only blow at about 50 degrees.
It still froze my feet tho.

Later, when I was in the 2008 Subaru Forester XT, I noticed that the Subie only blows at 50 when its 100 out.
It blows at 40 when its 90 and lower.

So, even tho I think I may have air in the system, its about as good as its gonna get.
I think I'll just leave it alone for now...

And wow - what a difference between the two cars....

(4Runner is at the shop to get a patch welded into the front of the frame where the rust is.....)

 

you may want to look at a critter-proofing write up did I did awhile back for my '96 T100. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f132...lter-t-214198/

 

Thanks for that

That was my plan.

I haven't dropped the blower box (thou I have cleaned it out with the blower motor/fan removed.

I DID remove the EVAP unit and totally clean that out.
I used vinegar and HOT water and dish soap (the vinegar instead of bleach - both are acids)

The only problem I see with your critter proof method, is that they will build a nest on TOP of the filter.
I've modded my cowl, so it can be cleaned out,
But not everyone wants to do that.

I'll post up pics when I get to the mod

 

Well I found a spare blower box (one that does NOT have mouse poop all over it) in my "rented barn storage" spot.
It must have come from the 1987 parts 4Runner that me and someone from a news group (before we had these forums) way back when.

Here's the idea I came up with.

Even if I put a wire mesh screen between the blower box and the cowl - they mouse could STILL nest on top of the mesh, inside the "cubby".
It would be like a hamster cage - they poop would fall though the mesh - right into the blower box/.

So this is the new idea.

Make a layer of mesh to go between the blower box and the firewall.
Use a circle of mesh to extend up
Use ANOTHER flat panel of mesh with extra long edges. This can be "bent" to "seal over the cowl "cubby wall".
Even if they manage to squeeze in under (because the mesh isn't fastened to the "cubby wall", they wont get very far.

I suppose they COULD live in the area between the mesh and the cubby wall - but me thinks they will look for a better nesting spot...

I used 1/4 hole, galvanized welded mesh (aka Hardware Cloth)


box located on top of lower cowl hole

Found a spare blower box in my storage spot

box is fully wired crimped - not getting in w/o cutters

 

On my 85, I did a cut out above what you are showing and I call it a Stove pipe. I was unable to get mine clean with out an access to it. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...trucks-286766/ With the blower box out of the way, you can reach up thru the stove pipe and knock some more loose. Another sign to look for is if the is a lot of debris behind the mud flaps and inside the fender as the drain holes run down and let water out between the fender and door.

 

Removed the blower box

hint
- loosen the AC evap unit - all the bolts
- unbolt the EFI box
- remove the bolts holding the left side of the dash to the kick side

It takes a ton of wiggling and cursing to get it out.

The "easier" way is to remove the eval box, but then you have to recharge the AC....

Now I know why, when the dealer installed the AC (when the truck was new), they removed the dash pad (and scraped the instrument cluster cover)

I made the "cage about 1-3/4" tall

If you just place a sheet of hardware cloth over the opening, they cant get in, but they MAY make a nest in the stove pipe and then your blower box becomes a poop catcher - just like those mouse cages at home.....

 

I like the idea. I got up the other morning to go hunting and went looking for some of my gear. Shined my light into my old Runner and what did I see looking back at me? A stinking mouse. I've got four traps in there now. I hope I can catch him quickly before I have to resort to poison. He's sure to go somewhere I can't get to and die if I have to resort to the poison. I just can't imagine how those suckers get in there but they do.

 

they get in through the cowl to the fresh air intake.

It happened often enough that I had a NOTE to "set the flap to closed" to keep em out.
Then they build a nest in the "stove pipe".
Thus the mesh cage - which - hopefully - makes the stove pipe a less desirable place to make a nest.