Parts are coming from Rock Auto on Friday. Replacing the exhaust manifold and egr valve. I was reading another thread and reading these flange "donut" gaskets are a PITA to deal with. It's gotta be done. I'm using the kit I mentioned in another thread, the ATP 101127 kit.

Can any of you give any tips for getting these flange gaskets on correctly without much trouble?

Also I'm curious what to to about the gasket for the first picture below. I believe it's the tube that connects to the egr valve. The gaskets that connect this tube to the exhaust manifold are included in the above mentioned kit. But again I'm not sure about the gasket in the first pic.

Can I move the tube away from the manifold without undoing this section, or does it have to come undone? It looks like the gasket comes in the kit...but it also looks like this gasket could be used for where the o2 sensor would go (on a 22r)..are they the same size?

 

Anyone? Kit pictured below:

 

The EGR passages are all internal to the head until you get to the EGR valve itself on the intake side of the head.

The pipe you're looking at is part of the PAIR system. It pushes air into the exhaust. Your kit comes with the gaskets between the exhaust manifold and the PAIR manifold, but does not show the gasket for the PAIR manifold to the PAIR pipe that wraps around the back of the head (the connection shown in your first picture). The O2 sensor gasket and PAIR pipe gaskets are not the same. I have some serious doubt you could remove the exhaust manifold without undoing the PAIR manifold to PAIR pipe connection. Something would bend. I would recommend buying the PAIR manifold to pipe gasket. You could try to reuse the gasket, but if it leaks, replacement would require pulling the PAIR manifold off of the exhaust manifold and possibly compromising the gaskets between the PAIR manifold and exhaust manifold.

 

Thanks. So I did some searching and found a gasket set that includes the pair gasket.

No advice for the flange donuts?

 

I've never had any problem installing them. Use the OEM or OEM style. You want a metal and paper gasket where it's made by wrapping in a spiral. The Felpro ones suck, they are made by stacking layers and often blow out quickly.

This is my preferred style.


This style is far less likely to stay sealed in my opinion.

 

Well I'm officially done with Rock Auto. They sent me the wrong damn manifold again. In fact, they sent the exact same part that was wrong the first time.

The guy I took it to for smog said he'd charge me $700 to fix it all. After all the headaches I'm going through...I think it's worth it. Tired of dealing with IDIOTS.

OK so I was just venting. I'm still gonna DIY. YotaShop is my new spot.

 

So I ordered a bunch of gaskets from yotashop..the first of which came in today (didn't order all at once like I should have).

They're Remflex gaskets. I believe this kit has the pair gasket. Anybody use these before?

 

anyone?

 

I have never heard of those gaskets.

Maybe they are good, maybe not.

Sorry I am not any help....

 

I've heard of the brand but never used them. They are reportedly much thicker to help with sealing up warped and damaged surfaces. Clean up the old gasket material and I'm sure they'll work just fine.

 

The remflex gaskets are awesome. Ive put them on two of my trucks so far, will replace all of them with them as they are needed. The collector donuts are available new from the dealer, nothing difficult about installing those aside from cleaning up the old ones. sometimes they get real burnt and corroded. You will want to order new nuts also for the manifold and collector (also available from the dealer), you may have them back out on you if you try reuse them, I believe they are intended to be a one time use thing as they are locking. You may end up turning out a few of the manifold studs out of the head, hopefully they come out clean and dont strip. These studs are available new from toyota as well. The upper 4 are longer than the lower 4 to accommodate for the air injection tube plates. Soak everything down with PB or whatever penetrating oil you prefer a day or so ahead of time. Take your time and dont force anything, sometimes you may have to work a nut/bolt/stud in and out or use some heat.

Yotashop and 22reperformace are great for getting parts if you dont have the time to research and find out OEM numbers on your own, but if you do, most of the parts are available from your local toyota dealer and they are often cheaper than what you will pay on line, and not to mention you wont have to pay shipping and you will have them in a couple days. toyotapartsdeal.com can save you some money on certain parts but you will be waiting up to 7 business days just for them to ship them out.

 

Hard to read but good info. What I really need here are part numbers for the gaskets I'll need to replace. The pair tube gasket looks similar to several other gaskets for this truck. Is it in the remflex kit pictured above? I have both a Chilton and Haynes manual and neither of them show the gaskets or list part numbers. I'm not finding torque specs for the connection from the egr valve to the rear of the intake manifold either.

I'm not sure what to to about the egr valve gasket, as it's part of the intake manifold gasket. I'm not about to take the intake manifold off just to replace the gasket-if I don't absolutely HAVE to. What is usually done when an egr valve for the 22re is replaced?

I need the gasket for this connection too:

 

You can just buy a new intake manifold gasket and cut the section you need off the end. Mine was even perforated for just this instance. The upper gasket in your pic is reusable if not damaged upon removal. (honestly so is the intake gasket.) As for torque spec use a 1/4 drive ratchet and make it tight. Unless you're built like Atlas and then make it 1\4 to 1\2 turn past where it makes contact. I use a 1\4 inch battery powered ratchet and when it stops it's tight. This is not a critical torque spec.

The PAIR tube gaskets are the only one's I've seen that look like that and they are in the remflex set in the pic above.

 

Ok thanks. But I'm not referring to the pair tube to manifold gaskets. Those are quite obviously specific to that part. The pair tube gasket I'm asking about is this connection below, and in the pic the remflex gaskets, I THINK it's the upper right one.

 

I bought one of these (listed as egr inlet gasket) thinking this was for the egr to intake connection. The part number matches. (Googled the number) but doesn't look like it.

 

Gotcha. I agree with you about the upper right one. I'd say that new gasket looks like the others in that kit though. The one for the EGR to Intake plenum that I got in my engine rebuild kit had 1 little finger on one side and 2 on the other. I guess to make it easier to install. But if the holes line up it'll work.

 

Well..new gaskets are installed. Whoever did the exhaust the last time did a horrible job. I'm pretty sure the one time use nuts were re-used. The manifold to head gasket showed signs of leakage towards the rear of the motor...one of the stud holes stripped. Attempted to re-tap and it stripped again. It's not causing a leak now..hopefully it doesn't leak at all.

The donut gaskets weren't even present when I undid the manifold to downpipe. I guess whoever worked on it last decided gaskets weren't needed.

EGR valve installed, no more exhaust leak. I guess it's time to smog again.

 

Hey, so one of the best ways to ensure the doughnut gaskets end up sealing, is to use a healthy amount of high temp ultra gray (O2 sensor safe). Glue them in place (so to speak), to their locations on the downside of the exhaust manifold flange. It will seal well, but will smell a bit while burning off.. it goes away quickly. Another method is to position them on the upper location of the down-pipe, resting on the small protrusions of the Y and flange. Get below and wiggle/rock the pipe while pushing up into the manifold and get a nut started to hold things in place... install the other two nuts and torque to extreme tight. A third way is hold them up in the exhaust manifold with some good tape that can be removed once you have the pipe and manifold mated up with the nuts started etc.