about to buy enginebuilder RV cam, some questions
#121
Registered User
no, he outsourced it to a local engine shop. THEY screwed up, and THEY are out of business. so if another overhaul is needed (as dictated by it burning a qt of oil weekly (to him thats unacceptable... though a qt a month is okay....? *scratches head* ) he will be going to another engine shop and paying for it out of his pocket, not charging me a dime. so hes takin care of me.
also, even if they werent out of business, im not gonna drop more money into it for something i have a warranty on! lol
also, even if they werent out of business, im not gonna drop more money into it for something i have a warranty on! lol
#122
I didnt think of that. So, explain this to me. Why make the switch to synthetic? Maybe I am looking to far into it, but wouldnt synthetic not be conducive to the seating of the rings? Also, now that you are he, I just have to thread jack for a split second, sorry Ozzi. Engnbldr, what is your view on Royal Purple oils?
Our 2003 Z06 for example goes 25,000 miles per change, not a problem at all.
I like the R/P, I would think nothing of putting in one of those 15 grand engines I used to build. But we ran them on 20/50 Valvoline and changed it every race.
In normal driving conditions, any modern oil will work fine....*EB
#123
Registered User
>>>*There almost is no such thing as a poor lubricant, some of the synthetics do ourperform others and all ourperform dino oils. The idea behind synthetic is far superior heat resistance, plus it can also be run longer between changes, especially in many modern designs.
Our 2003 Z06 for example goes 25,000 miles per change, not a problem at all.
I like the R/P, I would think nothing of putting in one of those 15 grand engines I used to build. But we ran them on 20/50 Valvoline and changed it every race.
In normal driving conditions, any modern oil will work fine....*EB
Our 2003 Z06 for example goes 25,000 miles per change, not a problem at all.
I like the R/P, I would think nothing of putting in one of those 15 grand engines I used to build. But we ran them on 20/50 Valvoline and changed it every race.
In normal driving conditions, any modern oil will work fine....*EB
#124
Registered User
Thread Starter
well, heard something today. the head gasket and possibly the head is fubar. i went up there with my dad for his oil change and service (mobil 1, new spark plugs, wires, dizzy cap, etc) for a 94 ranger 65 bucks... smokin deal or what... i asked him bout my truck. he shook his head and said 'its F**ed up man. they did a TERRIBLE rebuild, im sorry i didnt catch it, but you know ill take care of you.' he says he would do another teardown/rebuild, and MACHINE the parts properly, and hes SURE theyre going to, pending the extent of the damage. i KNEW there was something up with the engine a week after i got it... lol.
#125
Registered User
Thread Starter
okay. found out today. the head was cracked. the original shop (that went out of business) put JB WELD over the crack, let it dry, grinded it smooth, then repainted!! so my mechanic took it to another engine shop, and now they are trying to find a head for it. (cuz its so hard to find a head for a 22re... yeah....) . it clicked to me on the drive home from work: it sounds like hes going to put a junkyard head on my 2400 dollar motor!!! (past 2 heads theyve been sent were cracked). so i asked my mechanic about the block, because it had gas in the oil, and he said its from me not replacing my injectors... when i KNOW for a FACT its cuz he refused to time it according to FSM. man as soon as i can find a place to do it, im going to find a low mileage 22re and swap it into mine, and put my cam in it. im getting so sick of this project. i spent 2400 on an engine i dont want to be going through this crap.
on a side note: my job SUCKS.
on a side note: my job SUCKS.
#126
Registered User
Thread Starter
been runnin it a couple weeks, it is no longer burning oil, no more hard starts, no more black smoke, and most importantly, no more rattling. its running PERFECT. howevber.... the exhaust manifold loosened up, and my truck sounds like a huge lawnmower.... is it bad for the engine/valves to have a leak that huge?
#127
Registered User
You will notice a loss of power and it's not good for the engine either. I had a smallish leak at the collector, one of the 3 nuts ran off somewhere. After replacing it thus eliminating the leak I did notice she had a bit more getup and go. Tighten it down you should be alright.
#129
Registered User
Thread Starter
yeah, new head. though personally, im gonna be putting engnbldrs RV head on it sometime... maybe sell the .268 cam and put on the .261. got a b.a. heavy duty aluminum radiator... got the fins and everything on it...
yeah im about to go tighten down the manifold.
yeah im about to go tighten down the manifold.
#130
Registered User
yeah, new head. though personally, im gonna be putting engnbldrs RV head on it sometime... maybe sell the .268 cam and put on the .261. got a b.a. heavy duty aluminum radiator... got the fins and everything on it...
yeah im about to go tighten down the manifold.
yeah im about to go tighten down the manifold.
#131
Registered User
Thread Starter
no idea my mech put it in and said it cost more than the stock radiator... looked up the stock one, and it was about 90 bucks, 130 from toyota or so.... looked up a heavy duty radiator with fins... lowest one was about 450... so im guessing its a good radiator.
just tightened up the exhaust. it was the bolts from the manifold to the exhaust pipe. it was so loose i could jiggle it. tightened up a bolt, and realized im missing 2 nuts!! whats the size and thread pitch etc of these 2? any idea? cant exactly take the bolt out cuz its welded on the manifold.
just tightened up the exhaust. it was the bolts from the manifold to the exhaust pipe. it was so loose i could jiggle it. tightened up a bolt, and realized im missing 2 nuts!! whats the size and thread pitch etc of these 2? any idea? cant exactly take the bolt out cuz its welded on the manifold.
#132
Registered User
no idea my mech put it in and said it cost more than the stock radiator... looked up the stock one, and it was about 90 bucks, 130 from toyota or so.... looked up a heavy duty radiator with fins... lowest one was about 450... so im guessing its a good radiator.
just tightened up the exhaust. it was the bolts from the manifold to the exhaust pipe. it was so loose i could jiggle it. tightened up a bolt, and realized im missing 2 nuts!! whats the size and thread pitch etc of these 2? any idea? cant exactly take the bolt out cuz its welded on the manifold.
just tightened up the exhaust. it was the bolts from the manifold to the exhaust pipe. it was so loose i could jiggle it. tightened up a bolt, and realized im missing 2 nuts!! whats the size and thread pitch etc of these 2? any idea? cant exactly take the bolt out cuz its welded on the manifold.
#133
Registered User
Thread Starter
found it on another post... m10x1.25 is the size. waiting for the exhaust to cool down then im gonna put em on.
thinkin of takin off my muffler..... but the bolts r too rusty
thinkin of takin off my muffler..... but the bolts r too rusty
#134
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
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Wow, what an ordeal!!
My girls 4runner did the same thing with the stupid manifold/collector bolts. Except the shop who did the motor rebuild jammed standard thread studs into the manifold had to drill the threads out and heli-coil it!
My girls 4runner did the same thing with the stupid manifold/collector bolts. Except the shop who did the motor rebuild jammed standard thread studs into the manifold had to drill the threads out and heli-coil it!
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