crafthorse

I see what you are saying, It sounds like the mechanic is a dumbass, any new motor should not burn oil if properly rebuilt by some one that knows what they are doing. However I understand that sometimes things happen and one from time to time may be a turd, but by the response you are getting from your mechanic, I would call the Better Business Burreau in your area, suck up the amount of money you paid to him, and fix it. Option 2 includes all of the above, buy new truck, and keep old one to tinker with and play with.

Ezrider_92356

i agree a call to the BBB and i would also file an small claim case

ozziesironmanoffroad

so just take a loss on the motor, and have it rebuilt somewhere else? if i can get this working right then ill wait on the new truck until i can afford it more. the mechanic did tell me if anything happens to the motor within a year, he'll replace it free. (i thought, it had BETTER be free!). he KNOWS its burning oil, cuz ive told him multiple times, so im tempted to just drain it, put maybe 2 qts in it and run it.... hard. and just tell him i havent touched it, and it just broke down on the highway. prob a bad idea though...

Lumpy

As I had stated earlier, you are being screwed. I don't care how old it is or how many miles is on it. If it was rebuilt properly it should not bur oil! Maybe a wee bit for a little while for the first few hundred miles for the break in. I had a 82 Prelude with 215,000 and it didn't burn any oil at all. Both my Toyota's have a little over 100K and then don't burn any and my LS had 150 and it's fine as well.

I think that you should have him give you a refund and just get the parts from engnbldr and have at it. Talking to the BBB would be good as well. If you have him rebuild it again chances are that you will have issues again. Now he's pissed and will probably not do the best job...again.

ozziesironmanoffroad

im gonna wait a little while, he DID help me out by letting me make installments on it. i put regular 10w30 in it today, instead of mobil 1, maybe the rings havent seated properly yet. so im gonna run that for awhile and see what happens.

Lumpy

Best of luck to ya!!! I hope it does mellow out. But I think you'll have issues, it's not even my ride and I don't feel comfortable about it.

crafthorse

I dont mean to harp on ya, so dont get any hard feelings, but didnt I tell you it should have had dino oil in it to start. I also hate to tell you, putting the dino oil in now may not help, the rings and cyl walls are now glazed, and depending on how many miles you have put on it will determine how well this will work or not. Good Luck, and I think you should have it replaced by another shop or mechanic.

ozziesironmanoffroad

the shop i work at said put syn in for break in... oh well.
head gasket blew today, so its back at my mechanic. the shop that rebuilt the motor went under due to *drumroll please* crappy products. so hes gonna look at it personally, and prob gonna send it to another shop for another complete overhaul, with him paying for 100% of it. so im driving the expedition again. aka rms titanic. 60 bucks to fill up today!!!

Outsane

good to see your still working on it..

ozziesironmanoffroad

im not glad to see im still workin on it! paid 2 grand for a rebuild, and 4k miles later the head gasket blows! LOL.

iamsuperbleeder

coulda paid 2k for a rebuild and had the headgasket leak a week later

wait, I can't say that too loud... I retorqued the head bolts and SO FAR it's holding up...

Lumpy

I can't believe after all this it's back with the same schmuck... I hope he takes better care of you this time.

ozziesironmanoffroad

no, he outsourced it to a local engine shop. THEY screwed up, and THEY are out of business. so if another overhaul is needed (as dictated by it burning a qt of oil weekly (to him thats unacceptable... though a qt a month is okay....? *scratches head* ) he will be going to another engine shop and paying for it out of his pocket, not charging me a dime. so hes takin care of me.
also, even if they werent out of business, im not gonna drop more money into it for something i have a warranty on! lol

Plumbrbob

WOW how crazy these motors arent rocket science I did a bench rebuild on mine for $300 and its a great running motor. well hope the next batter gets it right how frustrating!

ozziesironmanoffroad

i hope so too....

seanmearse

Just walked the entire thread. NEVER, EVER BREAK IN AN ENGINE WITH SYNTHETIC OIL! Synthetics are designed to slow wear, if this occurs, its a given that the rings will not seat properly. When I broke in my old 350, machine shop told me to run rotella 15W-40 diesel oil. why? one word, Zinc. It aids with the break in process greatly, how I dont know. But I'll be damned if that motor didnt run like a striped ape. Just my .02, figured you helped me out a few times, so maybe this helps 'ya.

engnbldr

>>>*Evening!

*Now this thread has more twists and turns than any I have run across, so I have to chime in.

The first thing that concerned me was the comment about having the timing retarded during breakin. That is a NONO! There is correct, and everything else, an engine running with the timing retarded allows heat to collect on the exhaust side of the engine. The results can mean anything from piston/valve damage to failed head gasket.

Next synthetic oil. The factory uses it and so can anyone if the machinist has great skill. In the real world they can get pretty close but it's best to use a good dino oil to break in any rebuild.

The problems you mention suggest to me that first there ws an error in installing the timing chain, I have heard a few similar before, just not this extreme. Combine that with retarded timing right off the bat and she will run like Cr*p, assuming she runs at all.

You would have been better off if she didn't start, because running out of tune is one sure way to destroy even a tough little Toyota engine!

Jet black oil means cylinder walls washed down with gasoline, fuel in the oil means oil consumption and very fast piston ring failure. Again, head gaskets are not far behind.

I sure hope this gets sorted out, these engines are very easy to rebuild. Often the trouble comes in in the tuning department. You should be buzzing around happy as a clam in butter sauce by now.

Hopefully the new tech will get things sorted out....*EB

seanmearse

I didnt think of that. So, explain this to me. Why make the switch to synthetic? Maybe I am looking to far into it, but wouldnt synthetic not be conducive to the seating of the rings? Also, now that you are he, I just have to thread jack for a split second, sorry Ozzi. Engnbldr, what is your view on Royal Purple oils?

ozziesironmanoffroad

no prob sean

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I was gonna suggest checking the cam timing. something is causing you to burn way to rich and like engnbldr stated the oil gets contaminated with gasoline and its all down hill from there. This would also be shown with that kinda black smoke when you start cold or probly when you reved it. Suggest to your mechanic that when he gets the motor back to verify the cam timing and ignition timing. As far as all the codes you had, I'm hoping its just a loose plug on the ecu or something simple. Good luck!