qdude79

FWIW, I asked Ted (Engnbldr) himself when doing my rebuild. He claimed that little, if any gains are to be had for the money. In fact, if not sealed well, can actually cause loss. With all the other mods I did, I eventually decided to heed his advice. Why not? It's essentially his engine!

ozziesironmanoffroad

so prob forget the header for now? is that what you're saying?

qdude79

That's the way I've gone. Some may disagree, but I figured Ted knew/knows a lost more than I...

Put it this way, I wouldn't make it a priority. $.02

ozziesironmanoffroad

okay, and if i come across a cheap header, why not throw it on? then i guess thats what im going to do. thanks. and the flowmaster 40 is a good muffler?

qdude79

Can't speak to the 40 series. I put a 50 series Delta Flow. Very happy with it. Not too loud, not ricey, slight rumble. You can tell it's not stock, but it's not obnoxious. Not trying to be a V8...

ozziesironmanoffroad

update on engine: its burning oil a bit, and after 2000 miles the oil was almost BLACK. keep in mind im using mobil 1. i talked to the mechanic who rebuilt it today, and he said 'its an old truck its going to burn oil' so i said 'yeah, but its a rebuilt engine, so what?' 'you're driving too much, put mobil 1 20w50 in it'. what the hell? am i getting hosed?
and according to a tech at work, the timing chain seems like its off a tooth, but i havent verified that. how could i tell if its off a tooth? the engine isnt smooth when u look at it, but there IS the cam in there. looks like its misfiring, but runs fine.

Outsane

You are getting hosed

DupermanDave

what's the point of rebuilding an engine if it's not going to fix the issues like burning oil and smoking? Just for bragging rights? I think you're getting hosed.

ozziesironmanoffroad

thats what i thought.... i asked a former engine builder across the street from me about it today, he said its still under 4000 miles, so give it another 6000 miles, it might just be the oil seepin past the rings, might still need to seat properly. if its past 10,000 miles and its still burnin, then start complaining, and if that gets nowhere, go to the b.a.r.

DupermanDave

Yeah, I'd still wait before you punch the dude in the face. We bought a subaru recently and it had a nasty lifter tick. Guy said it would go away (guy was a nissan specialist, but the subaru specialist next door told him so.) Sure enough, not 2000 miles later the tick is completely gone and the engine is all settled in. The body on the Suby has 219k and the engine only 90k, and it was rebuilt so I figured it would need some breaking in.

way off topic, but the Ej22 subaru engine is pretty slick. Has nothing on my 22re though. 22re is way easier to work on and is rock solid.

ozziesironmanoffroad

ok, update. drove my truck to the registration place to pick up the regi for the expedition, and the truck at first wouldnt move. it would just sit there and sputter until i pushed in the clutch, then it would rev up until i released the clutch, then would sputter. so i revved high and dropped the clutch. that got it moving maybe 10 feet, then it sputtered again. so i just repeated the revving process to get up our hill. then the idle dropped super low (200rpms) and the check engine lite came on. continuing to the registration place, it had no power, was really smelly, and was a tad noisier than it usually is. when i got home i checked the codes. heres what i pulled:

12 Knock Control Sensor signal.
22 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
24 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
26 Air-Fuel Ratio Rich.
31 Air Flow Meter signal (Vacuum Sensor signal). (afm was replaced by him due to the old one being bad, charged me 100 bucks... GRRR)
41 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
51 Switch signal. (what switch?)

what would cause all those codes to spring up at once? and what would cause my uphill sputter/refusal to move problem? im taking the truck to him tomorrow and telling him if the engine is NOT replaced, i want the money i paid for it back, or i will be talking to the B.A.R. im so pissed, spent 2300 on this engine. it should be purring like a kitten.

Outsane

Sounds like you have an electrical plug fall out

iamsuperbleeder

jesus did someboby cut the main wiring harness? that's like, 3/4's of the sensors on the entire motor

crafthorse

Are you using Synthetic in the motor for break in? You should use Dino Oil for 5000 miles for break in so that the rings seat properly. As for the codes, I dont know what the heck is going on there. I also think if you are using Syn Oil right know, they are not seating and you are getting oil to bypass, hence the black smoke. my $0.02!

ozziesironmanoffroad

yeah im using synthetic oil right now. i thought break in was 500 miles? thats what i was told. and everyone i know says that the idea of not using synthetics on new engines is bs, you can use it when its brand new. thats the thing, im getting NO smoke. its just smelly. and i checked all the plugs, theyre fine. as it is im online right now looking at other vehicles.

Plumbrbob

dude crappy I spent $350 on my motor rebuild parts from engnbldr and my motor runs perfect sometimes you just gotta do it your self if you want it right. You have some sort of warranty take it back.

crafthorse

Actually my understanding is change oil first at 500 miles to remove oil with metal particles etc.. Every engine I have had rebuilt I have been told to do this, and to not overrev engine for 5000.00 miles for proper break in. I also have never bought a new car with Syn oil from the factory. I also know many many good race engine builders who absolutly will not use Syn Oils in a motor because of improper pistin seal seating on fresh engines. I also know several small engine builders who also do not use Syn oil in a rebuilt engine for 50hours to allow for proper ring seating. Just what I have always known, heard off and practiced, and have never had any blue smoke come from one as you described, and have never had to have one "replaced" under the builders "warranty". Like I said before my .02 cents.

ozziesironmanoffroad

thats the thing, as ive repeatedly said: im getting NO smoke, no black smoke, no blue smoke, no white smoke. sorry if it sounds like im being a a-hole, but im sick of repeating myself. occasionally some BLACK smoke will come out the exhaust after it will just crank and crank, then start. other than that, no smoke. and there wasnt any today, either. im just fed up with this truck, as of next payday, this truck will probably be up for sale. i dont want to crush it cuz 1. its in almost perfect condition body/frame wise(no rust) and i know how rare theyre getting. 2. i have over 4000 dollars into the engine/tranny, and i dont like the idea of crushing it with that much money in it.
heres what im looking at:
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ctd/1283129840.html

crafthorse

I dont blame you, I thought I read in one of the earlier posts you had bue smoke come out of the exhaust Blue Smoke=Oil. I am sorry about that if I messed up on that. I understand that you are fed up, I would be too. I think maybe you should see what the mechanic will do to rectify the problem, or find another mechanic. I hope you have better luck finding a cure for this, and dont give up so easily, you dont need a new truck, you can overcome this. Working out he bugs is just part of the process sometimes.

ozziesironmanoffroad

well, yeah i think that too, but i just dropped that much money into it, and everytime i ask him about it, he doesnt want to talk about it and says its an old engine its going to burn oil, etc. and says it doesnt matter if its rebuilt, its old technology. plus ive been thinking about buying a newer truck anyway, cuz the clutch is starting to get hard on my leg. plus... i want something with a little more room, (double cab) and something with A/C. i was looking at tundras, but decided i dont really need a V8.