Outsane

I used the old ones... Ted at engbldrs.com said it was fine..but to check the valves

jdw1

ted qouted me $110 shipped for the 268 rv cam. that seems kida cheap. how are his cams compared to comp, edelbrock, lunati?

Outsane

No clue, I got mine used

jdw1

so he sells used remachined cams? or new ones?

Outsane

I am not sure but you can ask

ozziesironmanoffroad

its a good cam.
update: today, leaving work, the truck wouldnt start. it would click, as in starter, but the BMW guy at work says it sounds like a battery issue, not a starter issue. (starter relay...?)
when we were about to smack the starter with a hammer, it started cranking. and cranking. and cranking. cranked for about a minute while hitting the gas. then it caught, and ran very rough, coughed out a huge cloud of blue smoke, then idled weird, would rev up like there was something clogged, then i took it on a drive down poway road, flooring it. smoothed out. the master tech at work is going to look at it tomorrow. oh, and the knock/rattle in the block is back. im getting really sick of this engine, haha. in my time of having this truck, the most problems i have had with it came AFTER the rebuild, not before. im going to start saving so i can buy a tundra with cash (just a 2wd), keep the 88 and drop a 350 into it. i KNEW i should have gotten rid of it when i had the chance.

whokrz

It sounds like your air flow meter is stuck open. Inside there is a little door that opens and closes. Make sure it is not stuck, operates smoothly with no drag at all, and make sure there is no fine build up on the sides where the door slides past. The build up is what held the door open on mine. When my 22re had this problem it sounded and ran like what you described. Basicly the air flow meter when it is stuck open tells the ecu to give lots of gas because lots of air is being drawn into the engine, but you are not at full throttle and it is a false reading. This results in the engine running very rich and ruff.

jdw1

ted emailed me back and said his cams are brand new. they are EPN brand which is his company. i never liked rebuilt motor or trannys. waste of money in my opinion. rebuilts are half ass engines. i got a remanufactured which is all brand new internal parts and no used or reused machined parts. only thing that is used is block itself, head and crankshaft. all valves, guides, seals, pistons, and rings are new. didnt have any problems out of it till i ran it hot. it is frustrating. they are toyotas and seems like were always working on them?

ozziesironmanoffroad

uh... you know theres no difference between a remanned engine and a rebuilt engine, right? lol. same thing. and depends on who does the rebuild.

it better not be the afm, cuz the mechanic said the old one was bad, and put another one on, and charged me 100 bucks for it. (without my approval). if it is i aint payin him the rest, lol. how would i check that flap? does it involve taking it apart?

jdw1

from what i understood rebuilt and remanufactured were different. rebuilts are the same parts or used parts but cleaned and remachined and put back in the engine. remanufactured brand new internal parts no remachined parts.

http://www.cheap-auto-car-insurance-...lt_engines.htm

camo31_10.50

uhhm...im pretty sure if someone was to want to rebuild their motor....they wouldnt want to use parts that are already in it to begin with...

i rebuilt mine..it has new crank, bearings, rings, oil pump, water pump(the one that was already on it was only 3months old..and looked fine..but o well), ALL the gaskets, new cam(EB 261C), removed all the smog crap, header, new rods, reused the old pistons..they didnt have ANYTHING wrong with them, had the block honed, head takin and dipped to clean it up, new plugs and wires, dist.cap is only 2months old, new CTS, new clutch, machined flywheel, the head was also only a few months old so i didnt have to worry about some screwed up valves or anything.(checked em anyway just to be sure though )..thats about all i can think of right now...besides the killer paint...new freeze plugs, seals...lol..

and a reman engine will have the exact same thing, minus clutch, cam, and it will have new pistons..lol

22REw/HP

Im not sure if you read the directions. Pacesetter says that the paint will come off. They also say the "shop coat" is only to prevent rust during shipping. They recomend the application of "high temp" paint. OR you can purchase the "armor coated" for additional 80 bucks. As far as the gasket......dude really......start in the center w/ a light snug, work your way to the outside using alternating pattern, torque to 30 on the final, use a japanese ex gasket...........use a japanese gasket..........use a japanese gasket.

pacesetter is a great product at a very reasonable price, sorry you had problems.

camo31_10.50

O YA...and i got new timing chain, sprockets, and guides..with the DS steel rail...haha..wish i would have gotten the Torkr cam though...

22REw/HP

"RECONDITIONED" = REUSED ( BASICALLY A RING JOB )

"REMANNED" = NEW PISTONS ETC. (FYI, SOMETIMES PEOPLE WILL REMANN AND "REMANN" SOME COMPONENTS, LIKE ROCKER SHAFTS, ROCKER ARMS SOMETIMES CAMS). ITS IMPORTANT TO ASK SPECIFIC QUESTIONS TO GET ANSWERS.

ozziesironmanoffroad

okay, my mechanic is paid off, and he checked out my truck for the problems im having. the electrical, which makes sense to me, is due to the wire i used when i wired my amp. it wanted 6 gauge wire for the power line from amp to battery, and i used 8 gauge. so thats where my power surges are coming from. makes sense, no?
the weird idle and everything is cuz the sensor plug clips are gone. lol. i popped the sensor plugs back in, and it ran BEAUTIFUL, until the TPS plug came out... lol. im such a dumbass.
and next paycheck im buying a header, but wont be installing it myself. my mechanic told me hed put a new exhaust system on with a flowmaster 40 for 350. but he reccomended i get the header myself, cuz the exhaust shop charges a buttload, and he reccomended a pace setter header. should i go pacesetter, or downey? which one works/sounds better? and for the deep and loud tone, (truck, not ricer) the flowmaster 40 is the best?

Outsane

thats kind of a personal question..

some are happy with a pace setter others say its crap..

and its not near the quality that the LC headers have ( so I have heard)

Outsane

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...grades-186050/

You can read here for some pacesetter feedback

camo31_10.50

Why not get a Hooker????
LMAO..had to..

hooker is EXCELLENT quallity (or so i've heard) and its around the same price as Pacesetter

why spend almost $400 OR MORE! on a header that will do the exact same thing as the $150 one......do you get my point here..all the primaries are the same..collector is the same...its made out of the same stuff..

i've been told the header on my truck is either a pacesetter or a hooker..and it is OLD..its like dirt brown and flakin off...but it doesnt leak..and it still does the exact same thing a new one would..

if i want it to look good i would sand it down and paint it..simple as that..(VHT FTW!!!)

ozziesironmanoffroad

so NO pacesetter, huh?

ozziesironmanoffroad

would a header even do anything for my rig that the stock manifold wont? ive heard and read on here about the stock manifold doing the same thing as the header. is a header worth it on a 22re?