about to buy enginebuilder RV cam, some questions
#66
Registered User
Thread Starter
its a good cam.
update: today, leaving work, the truck wouldnt start. it would click, as in starter, but the BMW guy at work says it sounds like a battery issue, not a starter issue. (starter relay...?)
when we were about to smack the starter with a hammer, it started cranking. and cranking. and cranking. cranked for about a minute while hitting the gas. then it caught, and ran very rough, coughed out a huge cloud of blue smoke, then idled weird, would rev up like there was something clogged, then i took it on a drive down poway road, flooring it. smoothed out. the master tech at work is going to look at it tomorrow. oh, and the knock/rattle in the block is back. im getting really sick of this engine, haha. in my time of having this truck, the most problems i have had with it came AFTER the rebuild, not before. im going to start saving so i can buy a tundra with cash (just a 2wd), keep the 88 and drop a 350 into it. i KNEW i should have gotten rid of it when i had the chance.
update: today, leaving work, the truck wouldnt start. it would click, as in starter, but the BMW guy at work says it sounds like a battery issue, not a starter issue. (starter relay...?)
when we were about to smack the starter with a hammer, it started cranking. and cranking. and cranking. cranked for about a minute while hitting the gas. then it caught, and ran very rough, coughed out a huge cloud of blue smoke, then idled weird, would rev up like there was something clogged, then i took it on a drive down poway road, flooring it. smoothed out. the master tech at work is going to look at it tomorrow. oh, and the knock/rattle in the block is back. im getting really sick of this engine, haha. in my time of having this truck, the most problems i have had with it came AFTER the rebuild, not before. im going to start saving so i can buy a tundra with cash (just a 2wd), keep the 88 and drop a 350 into it. i KNEW i should have gotten rid of it when i had the chance.
#67
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Suisun City, California
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It sounds like your air flow meter is stuck open. Inside there is a little door that opens and closes. Make sure it is not stuck, operates smoothly with no drag at all, and make sure there is no fine build up on the sides where the door slides past. The build up is what held the door open on mine. When my 22re had this problem it sounded and ran like what you described. Basicly the air flow meter when it is stuck open tells the ecu to give lots of gas because lots of air is being drawn into the engine, but you are not at full throttle and it is a false reading. This results in the engine running very rich and ruff.
#68
ted emailed me back and said his cams are brand new. they are EPN brand which is his company. i never liked rebuilt motor or trannys. waste of money in my opinion. rebuilts are half ass engines. i got a remanufactured which is all brand new internal parts and no used or reused machined parts. only thing that is used is block itself, head and crankshaft. all valves, guides, seals, pistons, and rings are new. didnt have any problems out of it till i ran it hot. it is frustrating. they are toyotas and seems like were always working on them?
#69
Registered User
Thread Starter
uh... you know theres no difference between a remanned engine and a rebuilt engine, right? lol. same thing. and depends on who does the rebuild.
it better not be the afm, cuz the mechanic said the old one was bad, and put another one on, and charged me 100 bucks for it. (without my approval). if it is i aint payin him the rest, lol. how would i check that flap? does it involve taking it apart?
it better not be the afm, cuz the mechanic said the old one was bad, and put another one on, and charged me 100 bucks for it. (without my approval). if it is i aint payin him the rest, lol. how would i check that flap? does it involve taking it apart?
#70
from what i understood rebuilt and remanufactured were different. rebuilts are the same parts or used parts but cleaned and remachined and put back in the engine. remanufactured brand new internal parts no remachined parts.
http://www.cheap-auto-car-insurance-...lt_engines.htm
http://www.cheap-auto-car-insurance-...lt_engines.htm
#71
Registered User
uhhm...im pretty sure if someone was to want to rebuild their motor....they wouldnt want to use parts that are already in it to begin with...
i rebuilt mine..it has new crank, bearings, rings, oil pump, water pump(the one that was already on it was only 3months old..and looked fine..but o well), ALL the gaskets, new cam(EB 261C), removed all the smog crap, header, new rods, reused the old pistons..they didnt have ANYTHING wrong with them, had the block honed, head takin and dipped to clean it up, new plugs and wires, dist.cap is only 2months old, new CTS, new clutch, machined flywheel, the head was also only a few months old so i didnt have to worry about some screwed up valves or anything.(checked em anyway just to be sure though )..thats about all i can think of right now...besides the killer paint...new freeze plugs, seals...lol..
and a reman engine will have the exact same thing, minus clutch, cam, and it will have new pistons..lol
i rebuilt mine..it has new crank, bearings, rings, oil pump, water pump(the one that was already on it was only 3months old..and looked fine..but o well), ALL the gaskets, new cam(EB 261C), removed all the smog crap, header, new rods, reused the old pistons..they didnt have ANYTHING wrong with them, had the block honed, head takin and dipped to clean it up, new plugs and wires, dist.cap is only 2months old, new CTS, new clutch, machined flywheel, the head was also only a few months old so i didnt have to worry about some screwed up valves or anything.(checked em anyway just to be sure though )..thats about all i can think of right now...besides the killer paint...new freeze plugs, seals...lol..
and a reman engine will have the exact same thing, minus clutch, cam, and it will have new pistons..lol
#72
I ran EB's 268 Torker for years it was a great improvement. I have a stock motor in my rig now that is a temp until i finsh rebuilding a new HO 22R motor. Right now I can notice a significant difference without the cam and I stomp on the gas with no cam response and I miss it!
I ran pacesetter it sucked only cool thing was factor collector location for quick hook up, crappy I had to mess with the header gasket for years before I got it to seat correctly. also the factory paint jsu tflaked off so I had to repaint it with header paint to keep it from rusting out.
I have hedman now it rocks sounds good nice bends and piping to the collector which is now gone cause i welded it shut
have fun!
I ran pacesetter it sucked only cool thing was factor collector location for quick hook up, crappy I had to mess with the header gasket for years before I got it to seat correctly. also the factory paint jsu tflaked off so I had to repaint it with header paint to keep it from rusting out.
I have hedman now it rocks sounds good nice bends and piping to the collector which is now gone cause i welded it shut
have fun!
pacesetter is a great product at a very reasonable price, sorry you had problems.
#74
from what i understood rebuilt and remanufactured were different. rebuilts are the same parts or used parts but cleaned and remachined and put back in the engine. remanufactured brand new internal parts no remachined parts.
http://www.cheap-auto-car-insurance-...lt_engines.htm
http://www.cheap-auto-car-insurance-...lt_engines.htm
"REMANNED" = NEW PISTONS ETC. (FYI, SOMETIMES PEOPLE WILL REMANN AND "REMANN" SOME COMPONENTS, LIKE ROCKER SHAFTS, ROCKER ARMS SOMETIMES CAMS). ITS IMPORTANT TO ASK SPECIFIC QUESTIONS TO GET ANSWERS.
#75
Registered User
Thread Starter
okay, my mechanic is paid off, and he checked out my truck for the problems im having. the electrical, which makes sense to me, is due to the wire i used when i wired my amp. it wanted 6 gauge wire for the power line from amp to battery, and i used 8 gauge. so thats where my power surges are coming from. makes sense, no?
the weird idle and everything is cuz the sensor plug clips are gone. lol. i popped the sensor plugs back in, and it ran BEAUTIFUL, until the TPS plug came out... lol. im such a dumbass.
and next paycheck im buying a header, but wont be installing it myself. my mechanic told me hed put a new exhaust system on with a flowmaster 40 for 350. but he reccomended i get the header myself, cuz the exhaust shop charges a buttload, and he reccomended a pace setter header. should i go pacesetter, or downey? which one works/sounds better? and for the deep and loud tone, (truck, not ricer) the flowmaster 40 is the best?
the weird idle and everything is cuz the sensor plug clips are gone. lol. i popped the sensor plugs back in, and it ran BEAUTIFUL, until the TPS plug came out... lol. im such a dumbass.
and next paycheck im buying a header, but wont be installing it myself. my mechanic told me hed put a new exhaust system on with a flowmaster 40 for 350. but he reccomended i get the header myself, cuz the exhaust shop charges a buttload, and he reccomended a pace setter header. should i go pacesetter, or downey? which one works/sounds better? and for the deep and loud tone, (truck, not ricer) the flowmaster 40 is the best?
#76
Registered User
thats kind of a personal question..
some are happy with a pace setter others say its crap..
and its not near the quality that the LC headers have ( so I have heard)
some are happy with a pace setter others say its crap..
and its not near the quality that the LC headers have ( so I have heard)
#77
Registered User
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...grades-186050/
You can read here for some pacesetter feedback
You can read here for some pacesetter feedback
#78
Registered User
Why not get a Hooker????
LMAO..had to..
hooker is EXCELLENT quallity (or so i've heard) and its around the same price as Pacesetter
why spend almost $400 OR MORE! on a header that will do the exact same thing as the $150 one......do you get my point here..all the primaries are the same..collector is the same...its made out of the same stuff..
i've been told the header on my truck is either a pacesetter or a hooker..and it is OLD..its like dirt brown and flakin off...but it doesnt leak..and it still does the exact same thing a new one would..
if i want it to look good i would sand it down and paint it..simple as that..(VHT FTW!!!)
LMAO..had to..
hooker is EXCELLENT quallity (or so i've heard) and its around the same price as Pacesetter
why spend almost $400 OR MORE! on a header that will do the exact same thing as the $150 one......do you get my point here..all the primaries are the same..collector is the same...its made out of the same stuff..
i've been told the header on my truck is either a pacesetter or a hooker..and it is OLD..its like dirt brown and flakin off...but it doesnt leak..and it still does the exact same thing a new one would..
if i want it to look good i would sand it down and paint it..simple as that..(VHT FTW!!!)
#80
Registered User
Thread Starter
would a header even do anything for my rig that the stock manifold wont? ive heard and read on here about the stock manifold doing the same thing as the header. is a header worth it on a 22re?