that in the pickups, from the front diff to the spindle was one solid axle stub, and the outer tube was also one piece. all that was needed was a diff oil seal (i forget the toyota part) and everything bolts up. then, all of the ADD vacuum related parts under the hood can be removed... With butt-sag like that, I would get new coils- either lift coils or factory height then get spacers to compliment the ball-joint spacers. |
Originally Posted by 95sr5z
(Post 52009889)
So do I pull the rest of the parts out of a pickup? Or do I go for an older 4runner?
pickup. well at least thats what the dude sold me the axle tube housing and the inner axle itself, told me was from. |
pickup. well at least thats what the dude sold me the axle tube housing and the inner axle itself, told me was from. |
either buy idler arms from a place that will give you free lifetime replacement or buy those high end idlers that seem bulletproof..
also, your old axle, did the boots tear on the inner or outer joints? also, were they oem axles? reason is, my long arm travel kit requires oem outer joints. so if you wanna get rid of them... :) |
Man that looks nice inside!
OK, glad the ADD/auto hubs got cleared up, but you still have some misinformation going on...the 80 series cruiser springs you need for the rear are the rear 80 series springs, it's the next generation of 4Runner that uses the front 80 series springs in the rear for lift. If you want all the options for lifting your Runner, you should check out this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-155339/ While you're in the research stage, check out some of the other consolidated sticky threads: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...tickys-242840/ |
i was looking at an old PM here and i found a pix of the ADD axle break:
http://www.cbe.csueastbay.edu/~ldivi...ops/image3.jpg |
Ouch. Any idea how it happened?
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yes. low-low at possibly greater than 150:1 (marlin told me when the torque converer locks up, it goes as high as double @ 300:1)...
front left tire got some air. a second or two later i heard the loudest crack i have heard... simple actually... ;) |
You can also use the short side of diff from 1st Gen(84-89) 4Runner. Same as the pickup. This will give you more options at the pick-n-pulls. You can go with the OME rear coils - there are two options; medium duty (OME2900) or the heavy duty (OME2901). Or find the 80's series Cruiser coils in the yards.
This is a good, must read also. For the radiator, go with a good 3 row rad. Aluminum is going to be expensive. Do a search here and see what guys are using. Also, think about a truss/brace for the rear of the lower control arms for the IFS. There are plenty of threads here. I gotta do mine yet along with all the stuff you are asking about. |
After checking out the link Daved5150 posted I have kinda changed my plan for my 4runner. I'm leaning towards no lift 33's and a pinch weld mod. Also I'm definitely getting lockers, at least for the rear. Found a used aussie locker for like 150 I think not sure exactly. Does that sound like a good deal? Also buying a used locker what do I need to look for? I'm hoping I get sliders for Christmas haha. Of course money is tight right now so I'm putting everything on hold for now.
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Hey everybody Happy New Year! Haven't posted in a while was busy with the holidays. I'm having an issue with my cruise control. The light comes on but once I hit "Set" the light flashes and it won't hold my speed. Anybody know how to fix this, I looked it up I guess this is a vacuum controlled system so I will be checking those lines. I am driving to Arizona tomorrow and really want to have cruise control. Thanks for the help
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Yep, mine does the same thing...must be a common problem. Gotta fix mine too. Look on here for ideas. If I start looking again and find anything, I'll let you know. Too much stuff going on now....
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Haven't been on here in a while, had a lot of stuff happen. Anyways, since being on here I've been taking the 4runner out every chance I get. Had a problem with the fuel pump. Dropped the tank replaced the pump put it back together and it still wouldn't start... ended up being the "circuit opening relay". Replaced the CV axles, did an oil change, rear end seal, and some interior stuff. Back to running great, I've been taking out in the snow and its doing great. This is the first year I've ever gone out in the snow which was really cool. I took the running boards off (they are for sale) also took the chrome wheel trim off (also for sale). The aussie locker I found for $150 ended up being just one part of a locker haha I need to pay attention a little better when I'm reading. Looking for new tires I'm looking at BFG AT's, MT Baja Radial MTX, Falken Mountain something AT's any suggestions? I will probably end up buying used, don't have to much money to spend. Thanks for the help
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I don't have any input on your tire selection. But I can point you to the diag system for the cruise control.
FSM Link, diagnostics start on page 6 "BE-61". The first diagnostics tests can be done at anytime. The second tests can only be done after the system turns its self off due to a system error, you can't turn the ignition off when this happens it does not store codes like the main ECM. So if you're driving along and the CC cancels and blinks the light five times, it has detected a problem and you'll have to retrieve the code before you shut off the ignition. |
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