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Hello all - I was hoping to get some advice about replacing a lot of the steering and suspension parts on my 95 4 runner. The whole of the front end seems to be a total mess and was told specifically that I needed the parts that I've already bought (see below) before an alignment could be done on my truck.
My main question is what I should do regarding the bottomed out tie rods that are in the attached pictures. These pictures were taken with the steering centered. I have heard that when installing the new tie rods, I should just eyeball and match the number of threads from the old tie rods then let a shop fix they alignment. I'm concerned that if I do this though, there won't be any room to do my alignment so I want to ask you all what to do in this situation. Should I try to fix this my putting the new idler arm on a notch or two over from where it is now, or is the possibly some underlying issue that is causing this?
I'm also wondering if there are any parts that you think I am missing in my lift of things to replace. Thank you all for any help you can give!
The parts that I have purchased so far:
Idler arm
Pitman Arm
Ball Joints
Tie rods/tie rod ends
Other parts I am planning on purchasing:
Half axles and CV boots
Shocks
Wheel Bearings
Brake pads
#1 go to a good alignment shop
#2 bring this to their attention.
#3 it is NOT your idler arm that would be off.
Either the PITMAN arm is off a tooth or two (not sure if it's keyed or not) or the steering shaft is off a tooth or two (also may be keyed). regardless a good alignment shop will get you sorted out and the only reason to put the new parts on as close as possible as those you remove is to keep your current alignment close until you get to the shop.
If you want to save some labor:
After replacing your ball joints and idler arm measure your total toe with a tape measure, then with the pitman arm removed turn the steering wheel lock to lock and count how many turns you get, then divide by two to find the exact center.
hopefully with the steering box centered your steering wheel will also be right side up and centered.
Then install your new pitman arm as close to parallel with the frame as you can, install the new tie rod ends, and lastly set your total toe with a tape measure and as close to evenly adjusted from side to side as possible.
The alignment shop will have it easy from there.
Your biggest problem right now is that you have no idea if the "clockspring" in the steering column has been over-rotated in one direction because someone has obviously had jacked something up in the past. If you have an airbag or cruise control the connections could end up damaged.
Hello all - I was hoping to get some advice about replacing a lot of the steering and suspension parts on my 95 4 runner. The whole of the front end seems to be a total mess and was told specifically that I needed the parts that I've already bought (see below) before an alignment could be done on my truck.
My main question is what I should do regarding the bottomed out tie rods that are in the attached pictures. These pictures were taken with the steering centered. I have heard that when installing the new tie rods, I should just eyeball and match the number of threads from the old tie rods then let a shop fix they alignment. I'm concerned that if I do this though, there won't be any room to do my alignment so I want to ask you all what to do in this situation. Should I try to fix this my putting the new idler arm on a notch or two over from where it is now, or is the possibly some underlying issue that is causing this?
I'm also wondering if there are any parts that you think I am missing in my lift of things to replace. Thank you all for any help you can give!
The parts that I have purchased so far:
Idler arm
Pitman Arm
Ball Joints
Tie rods/tie rod ends
Other parts I am planning on purchasing:
Half axles and CV boots
Shocks
Wheel Bearings
Brake pads
Passenger side Driver side
Whatever the reason the right side had to be pulled that tight to to make the alignment numbers .
possible clueless tech or one side of the sleeve was seized .
Awesome. Thank you for the insight. If I'm understanding you correctly, it sounds like I can just pull everything off and put the new parts on, then the shop should be able to take care of the rest?
The cruise control does not work any more, so that sounds like it could be an issue. Do you think that is also something that I should have a shop look through, or is it something that is straight forward enough that it could be done at home?
On a side note, do you think that I should replace all my bushings for good measure while I'm at it?
Originally Posted by akwheeler
#1 go to a good alignment shop
#2 bring this to their attention.
#3 it is NOT your idler arm that would be off.
Either the PITMAN arm is off a tooth or two (not sure if it's keyed or not) or the steering shaft is off a tooth or two (also may be keyed). regardless a good alignment shop will get you sorted out and the only reason to put the new parts on as close as possible as those you remove is to keep your current alignment close until you get to the shop.
If you want to save some labor:
After replacing your ball joints and idler arm measure your total toe with a tape measure, then with the pitman arm removed turn the steering wheel lock to lock and count how many turns you get, then divide by two to find the exact center.
hopefully with the steering box centered your steering wheel will also be right side up and centered.
Then install your new pitman arm as close to parallel with the frame as you can, install the new tie rod ends, and lastly set your total toe with a tape measure and as close to evenly adjusted from side to side as possible.
The alignment shop will have it easy from there.
Your biggest problem right now is that you have no idea if the "clockspring" in the steering column has been over-rotated in one direction because someone has obviously had jacked something up in the past. If you have an airbag or cruise control the connections could end up damaged.
Myself I don`t do the cruise control one of the first things removed and given away or thrown out.
Was that truck ever hit in the front end that you know that might be another reason the right side is pulled like it is the only way the numbers could be had..
Bushings if they are old and dry rotting or if it gives you peace of mind only you know your budget .
Awesome. Thank you for the insight. If I'm understanding you correctly, it sounds like I can just pull everything off and put the new parts on, then the shop should be able to take care of the rest?
The cruise control does not work any more, so that sounds like it could be an issue. Do you think that is also something that I should have a shop look through, or is it something that is straight forward enough that it could be done at home?
On a side note, do you think that I should replace all my bushings for good measure while I'm at it?
If you don't use the cruise control or care about it don't worry about it.
If you have an airbag on the steering wheel you will see an SRS warning lite if there are any issues.
I wouldn't recommend working on the airbag or clockspring unless you know what you are doing, too much liability involved. So, I won't offer any further advise on that.
If you have the money time and skills then replacing the bushings makes plenty of sense. Do everything before getting an alignment and it should hold up for a very long time if you use quality parts and don't run into solid objects.
08-02-2021, 07:12 AM
