95 3.0 only running on 3 cyllinders
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95 3.0 only running on 3 cyllinders
So just got a 95 4runner I. Decent shape. For 600$. Has a horrible top end knock off idle. Can't figure it out. Pulled valve cover nothing noticble good cam lobes none flat. Now that that's covered the thing only runs on 3 cylinders. 1, 4 and 3 are not running. Had spark. New cap, rotor, wires,and plugs. Egr blocked off (like this when I got it) plugs are fireing compression is around 140-160 on all cylinders. Cranks right up but has no power. New fuel filter. I've been searching but everything I try yields no gain. Timing is on and no codes. I'm stumped. Maybe bad injectors? Has 255,XXX miles. I want to clear the missing cylinders b4 I start with the other noise.
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Are the plugs on the missing cylinders wet (w/fuel)? If not, I'd suspect injectors.
Even though you have new ignition components, put your timing light on each plug wire to confirm THAT plug is firing.
Even though you have new ignition components, put your timing light on each plug wire to confirm THAT plug is firing.
#5
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I would say switch the injectors to see if the miss follows the injectors or not. but that is a lot of work. Yes check the timing too. im wondering if the distributor a tooth off
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The plugs are kinda wet but not much. And timing is on. I made sure cam timing and distributor are on. Its deffinatly running on 3 cylinders I can unplug 1,3,4 wires with no change. Its not the wires be caused I swaped them around.to see if it was bad wires but then put them back how they go. And yes their going to the correct cylinder.
#7
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I don't think it's the injectors, I believe I read up on them and found they all fire at the same time. Unless the injectors are really that far gone... but I've never heard of 3 failing all at once. Maybe 1...
Do you have access to another distributor that you could swap/replace with? Ignition timing was checked or no?
Do you have access to another distributor that you could swap/replace with? Ignition timing was checked or no?
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Not sure if they all failed at once. I got the truck running like this. The guy had the distributor way out of time was idling at about 500rpm then I set the distributor and factory time and it now idles in the 900-1000 range but still has the miss. Plugs are getting spark so its either not getting fuel or maybe burnt valves? Clogged injectors. I did the screwdriver test on the injectors and they are all clicking. But I'm sure that they can still be clogged. If I unplug wires 1,3 and 4 the motor has no change if I unplug 2,5 or 6 you tell a major difference. The knocking is coming from the passenger side
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I'll do that when I get home. Ima sound really stupid here just bare with me. But on my timing light is a dial to advance timing I assume I put it at zero and when the light flashes I want my paint make on the crank to appear in front of the 0 on the indicator on the block..
#12
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That would be true. But in this case you are simply checking each plug wire to see if it is getting spark from the distributor. Once you see a flash on number one cylinder move the clip to number 3. If it flashes, it is getting spark. Then move to number 5. Etc etc do not move the distributor to adjust the timing when you are doing this. You are simply verifying spark at all 6 plug wires. If all 6 are working, you have an issue elsewhere. If some of them are not working, you have found a problem. Quite possibly you have more than 1 problem.
#14
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Run a concentrated dose of injector cleaners through you gas tank. Double up or even triple up. If you noticed anything better, it could be clogged injectors (saves you a bit of work of trying to test injectors yourself and ripping off half the engine).
Also if you have the means, run a compression check. If not, a shop should do it for less than $40. Any low readings show either bad valves or bad piston rings. Even if you're not getting combustion, you should still have good compression (the piston will still compress the air).
Also if you have the means, run a compression check. If not, a shop should do it for less than $40. Any low readings show either bad valves or bad piston rings. Even if you're not getting combustion, you should still have good compression (the piston will still compress the air).
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Should a can of sea foam To 5 gallons be good enough? And I did a compression check. I think my lowest was 135psi I'll post the actual numbers later tonight when I get off work
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you have confirmed that you have compression on each so its not valves, you have confirmed that its got spark to each cylinder, you said that you can hear each injector clicking with a screw driver so it has to be 3 completely blocked injectors, personally i cant see Seafoam fixing that, youll probably need to remove them to get them flowing again.
Have you physically checked that the plugs are sparking? it could be bad plugs
Have you physically checked that the plugs are sparking? it could be bad plugs
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I only checked 1,3,4 I guess I'll look at them again and com pair to the other ones. Spark didn't look very strong but their was spark. If Spark isn't the issue I'll mark injectors on 1,3,4 Then swap them around with 2,5,6 then ill know if The problem is injectors if the skip moves to 2,5 or 6. I'll try to get a video tomarrow
#18
Injector failure/blockage may be possible.
Verify proper operation of distributor and igniter/coil assembly.
Timing belt incorrectly installed/damaged...?
Air flow meter faulty/out of spec...?
Verify proper operation of distributor and igniter/coil assembly.
Timing belt incorrectly installed/damaged...?
Air flow meter faulty/out of spec...?
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If the timing is correct on #1, it really has to be correct on the rest, unless you have an incredibly odd distributor problem.
If you have good compression, I can't really see it being a problem with the timing belt. If the cam is mis-timed the valves will open at the wrong time, and take down the compression on one side. Same with air flow meter; that should affect all cylinders equally.
So if you've narrowed it down to certain cylinders, checked that each plug is firing, checked that compression is good (ruling out cam timing AND a burnt/bent valve), then all that's left is a a fuel problem. And I agree that injector cleaner (or Sea Foam) is not likely to help 3 cylinders (that is, if they ever help ...).
I also agree that the "easiest" way to check the injectors is by swapping them around, but by the time you've got the injectors in your hand it's almost worth it to get them all cleaned "on spec."
Good luck!