QuickPaws

Here's hoping. We had them ( we thought ) lined up today, but no go. Though, it's just been pointed out that I had a possible serious oversight. I forgot to remember that the #1 piston will be TDC on both compression and exhaust... so it's possible we might have set the cams to align at the top of the exhaust stroke

Feel smart there.. of course, I didn't read this ( from another member ) until AFTER my ( might as well be ) father in law had gone home and we had put it all back together. Gonna try and do it again tomorrow now that I have all the tools I need... Might be a little tougher with one person adjusting the cams and what not, but I think I can manage. ( I have other non mechanically inclined help, but they know how to hold, turn and what not to stuff )

QuickPaws

Oh, it's been interesting to say the least. I got everything taken apart up to the pully's and cam adjustment with a single 14 mm 3/8th socket, and a set of shallow well and deep well 1/4 inch drive ratchet sets. I've never been so proud of a quarter inch Stanley tool in my life. ( the new stuff I have is Craftsman ) ( super early christmas present )

QuickPaws

Alright, so I've done some searching, and it looks like I found a couple HG SETS online.

I find alot described as "Direct fit factory replacement" What does that actually mean.

Also, I can't seem to find Denso gaskets... do they not exist?

I found a great site, that seems to have COMPLETE kits ( except for the injector o rings )

However, after searching further, I found a Beck and Arnley kit.

Here's the link comparing the 2 I was looking at. The price seems to be the biggest difference, except the beck arnley seems to come with the o rings for the fuel injectors.

Opinions please? This part is completely foreign to me, and I only ever see OEM ( which to me means go to the dealer for certain things ) or performance parts, which are not an option for me.

Are either of http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog
/detail.php?R=Endeca.500169+Endeca.577823&B=Tj0wJk5 0dD05NCs0cnVubmVyK2hlYWQrZ2Fza2V0&T=SGVhZCBHYXNrZX QgLSBGb3IgMTk5NCBUb3lvdGEgNFJ1bm5lciBTUjUg&Y=1994& vNr=year%3A1994%2Cmake%3AToyota%2Cmodel%3A4Runner% 2Csubmodel%3ASR5

those any good?

More searching just found me this one
http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.co...3-1601626.html

Anyone used any of those with extreme amounts of success?

Ok.. spammed the board enough now.. gonna go eat something, and prepare for tomorrow. Thanks ahead of time, and thanks for all the replies to everything I've been asking. Hopefully I'm closing in on the problem... snow is due in a couple weeks.. ish. It's gonna get COLD.

***EDIT***

You know what.. I just thought of something else as I was sitting here reading my own thread. The truck has always been an AZ truck. So hot summers, lame winters. Could the cold temperature here be playing havoc on parts?

QuickPaws

Alright, got it all torn apart again ( woo that's fun, lemme tell you )

Looks like after 2 complete revolutions of the crank, the rotor in the distro is pointing @ the number 6 cylinder wire. I presume this is incorrect, because from everything I've read and been told since starting work on this, Crank @ 0 #1 piston TDC for compression stroke, and this should mean that the distro is pointing @ the #1 wire.

Can I just turn the Distro BACK to the number 1 wire?

Here's a picture

thedanned

TDC #1 is TDC#1 as far as the crank is concerned. What makes it TDC compression or exhaust is the orientation of the cam(s). Are you using a new belt? That would make it easier to line up the cams because the marks are clear and legible.

QuickPaws

No. No new belt. Cash is an issue in this. The belt is actually in great shape as it is. I can still read the markings and everything on it. There's not a whole lot of flex in it at all, and when it's set all together, it's pretty snug. No worn/stripped teeth either.

bugs1961

Hey Mike,

No, you cannot adjust this out. You will need to verify the pulley positions (see today's PM) and if the rotor is still off, you will need to pull the distributor out and reset it in the correct position. The IG-26 page shows exactly how to do it--not difficult. I can't really imagine how the distributor rotor would get that far off, but if the timing belt was adjusted or moved on the pulleys, that could explain it. You will need a timing light to set the ignition timing after the distributor is reinstalled, and the TE1 and E1 need to be shorted (the same procedure for obtaining codes) to correctly set the ign timing. The procedure is in IG-26/27.

QuickPaws

***EDIT*** I'm still second guessing myself. I still think that the distro in my truck is off. When looking at all the pictures in the FSM, it looks like it should be further ahead than it is. I'm almost convinced it is.

I've got some new pictures of stuff, as it's taken FURTHER apart now, just to make sure everything is lined up. Should the key on the crank shaft be lining up with the mark on the block, which when lined up, should mean everything else needs to line up too, right? ( cam marks match up with the back plate, the crank is @ 0, and the key lined up with the mark on the block...?

Pics:

QuickPaws

Took timing belt off, reset both cams, set the crank to the mark on the oil pump housing, put belt back on using the marks on it as a guide.

Put it all back together ( mostly ) and tried to start it.

It SOUNDED like it wanted to fire, but still didn't. It cranked over differently for about 2 seconds, and then back to what it was before. Pulling plugs now to do a full compression test.

Ideas?

***EDIT*** oil/coolant mixture coming out of #6 plug hole. That's bad.

Good news is that I think I know why it won't start now!

QuickPaws

Alright. Confirmed blown HG. Drivers side as per the norm.

Thanks to everyone who piped up and said something to help me out, you were all a great help

Now, it sits for a long time.



Mike