93 toyota truck please help!
#1
93 toyota truck please help!
My friend bought a 93 Toyota truck 4x4 3.0 v6. It was running when he first got it, now it just does not want to start? Engine is cranking over fine.. I have hit it with a timing light and the #1 cylinder is firing at TDC. Taken the timing cover off and the belt looks good and the marks are all lined up. The distributor is spinning. Sprayed starting fluid into the Intake and we can not even get a pop out of this thing. Compression was checked and is around 140 for each cylinder.. Any ideas? Help.
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#3
When I take the plug out and set it on the intake manifold it is sparking. Yes.. Maybe when I screw it back into the block it stops working? Starter is shorting out the engine ground? Three Mechanics have looked at it and can not figure this one out so far.. Including myself..
Last edited by fusion1620; 10-05-2010 at 07:45 PM.
#4
Banned
Well thats all i got
Just wanted to help clearify what the problem was so you will get an answer sooner. And i read your first post wrong so i thought you wernt getting spark
Just wanted to help clearify what the problem was so you will get an answer sooner. And i read your first post wrong so i thought you wernt getting spark
#5
We have no idea what is wrong.. All three of us have good skills, so combined we should have figured this one out. Air,fuel,Compression, and spark. What are the best tests for a no start on these motors?
I feel like a Noob.
I feel like a Noob.
#7
No mud puddles that I know of..
Three things happened just before it decided to never start again...
It was showing a knock sensor code and the wire to the knock sensor fell apart upon inspection.
The sensor and the pigtail have now been replaced..
It had a very bad rattle in the catalytic converter, so the one piece exhaust was cut, the cat was hollowed out, and the exhaust was clamped back together.
The last thing was a new battery was installed. This battery had the posts on the wrong sides so the battery so the wires got pulled on so that they would reach. Which they do, just barely..
Now it doesn't even try to fire..
Three things happened just before it decided to never start again...
It was showing a knock sensor code and the wire to the knock sensor fell apart upon inspection.
The sensor and the pigtail have now been replaced..
It had a very bad rattle in the catalytic converter, so the one piece exhaust was cut, the cat was hollowed out, and the exhaust was clamped back together.
The last thing was a new battery was installed. This battery had the posts on the wrong sides so the battery so the wires got pulled on so that they would reach. Which they do, just barely..
Now it doesn't even try to fire..
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#9
All fuses are good.
Weird thing is that it has fuel, spark, and compression. What could be wrong? Maybe I'm not doing the test right..
Weird thing is that it has fuel, spark, and compression. What could be wrong? Maybe I'm not doing the test right..
Last edited by fusion1620; 10-05-2010 at 10:53 PM.
#10
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When pulling the battery cables, make sure you didnt disconnect the car's ground. There should be a negative wire coming from the terminal and screwed right into the chassis.
#12
It is hooked up....
Starter will not engage when the smaller wire to the frame is unhooked. Even when the two big cable are. I assume this is normal..
The #1 cylinder is firing right at TDC with the timing light.
Compression is around 135 according to one mechanic, but I will have to check it for myself.
Sprayed starting fluid into the intake...
Engine turns over...
Nothing. No spark sounds like.
Take the plug out , set it on the manifold, crank it over, and it works...
Timing belt marks look good..
Fuel, air , compression, spark..
Fuel, air, compression, spark...
Fuel, air, compression, spark...
Don't understand..
At least I'm not alone.
Two other guys better than me can't figure it out either.......
Starter will not engage when the smaller wire to the frame is unhooked. Even when the two big cable are. I assume this is normal..
The #1 cylinder is firing right at TDC with the timing light.
Compression is around 135 according to one mechanic, but I will have to check it for myself.
Sprayed starting fluid into the intake...
Engine turns over...
Nothing. No spark sounds like.
Take the plug out , set it on the manifold, crank it over, and it works...
Timing belt marks look good..
Fuel, air , compression, spark..
Fuel, air, compression, spark...
Fuel, air, compression, spark...
Don't understand..
At least I'm not alone.
Two other guys better than me can't figure it out either.......
#18
Update!! What do you think??
Today one of the guys pulled the intake off the top of the motor so that they could get to all of the fuel injector wires and check for a pulse.. Turned the key over and she started right up!! Turned it off. Tried again.. Started right up again!! They put the intake back on and now it just turns over and over with no signs of life again.. I'll be looking into it tomorrow, so any ideas are helpful...
#19
Try this...
Copy and paste this URL:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/engine.html
Unfold a paper clip and pull the cover off the Diagnosis box under the hood next to the fuse box. Stick one end in the E1 and Te1 terminals.(There is a a diagram under the cap that shows you what terminals are what)
Make sure that the engine is at operating temperature and turn the ignition to on. The check engine light will flash the # of a code (i.e. it will flash five time for a five, a brief pause, then once for a one, hense code 51.) On that URL I pasted (I forget which heading, but it is under one of them) is a list of coded that will tell you exactly what the problem is (assuming it is an electrical problem). Everything you could possibly need to know is on that website if you spend the time to look around. (I think I learned this in a thread from thook, but I can't remember)
The only other thing I can offer is that I had a similar sounding problem and it turned out to be the EFI relay switch behind the glove box and a few loose connections in the wiring harness. Now my truck runs fine. Good luck fixing it.
Just adding this for any others going through a similar problem, but if the light flashes repeatedly faster than hummingbird on coke, then you have no problems.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/engine.html
Unfold a paper clip and pull the cover off the Diagnosis box under the hood next to the fuse box. Stick one end in the E1 and Te1 terminals.(There is a a diagram under the cap that shows you what terminals are what)
Make sure that the engine is at operating temperature and turn the ignition to on. The check engine light will flash the # of a code (i.e. it will flash five time for a five, a brief pause, then once for a one, hense code 51.) On that URL I pasted (I forget which heading, but it is under one of them) is a list of coded that will tell you exactly what the problem is (assuming it is an electrical problem). Everything you could possibly need to know is on that website if you spend the time to look around. (I think I learned this in a thread from thook, but I can't remember)
The only other thing I can offer is that I had a similar sounding problem and it turned out to be the EFI relay switch behind the glove box and a few loose connections in the wiring harness. Now my truck runs fine. Good luck fixing it.
Just adding this for any others going through a similar problem, but if the light flashes repeatedly faster than hummingbird on coke, then you have no problems.
Last edited by wmayota; 10-07-2010 at 06:03 PM. Reason: Forgot to add some stuff...doh.
#20
After trying to start the truck. No trouble codes are displayed. Bummer..
Something with the EFI I think.. Not getting fuel with the intake hooked up? Not enough air? Guess I'll find out tomorrow...
Something with the EFI I think.. Not getting fuel with the intake hooked up? Not enough air? Guess I'll find out tomorrow...