93-3vz P/U head gasket leak and recommendations
#1
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93-3vz P/U head gasket leak and recommendations
am orig owner, of a 1993 p/u 3vz-e with 233,000 miles on it. Had the gasket recall done back at about 80,000, it was leaking then too. This time though, I could not hear anything indicating a leak, before I could hear it, but not this time. I found my radiator coolant level was low, causing the motor to heat up, what happened was the coolant was leaking into the exhaust because of the bad gasket. So, am having it fixed, truck is in great condition, so $900.00 to get the head gasket, pressure test, and head resurfaced is ok, but what else should I have done? Am having the timing belt, water pump and fan belts replaced since it is apart, any other suggestions? May tell them to have the plentum steam cleaned inside, looks pretty dirty inside. Am open to suggestions.
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x2. Headers eliminate the crossover pipe which can burn exhaust valves. Headers also make the motor sound pretty cool too. Its not a bad idea to have them replace the PCV valve. Id definately reccomend having the plenum cleaned out. Make sure they clean out the EGR ports too, at that mileage they are probably all clogged up.
#5
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www.sea2skytuning.com get the 3vze cams!!!!
10% economy gain and a BIGgain in dyno proven power across the power band!
Then oversized valves from engine builder. 1mm larger intake and 2mm larger exhaust (approx)
Those plus headers should wake a 3vze up!
10% economy gain and a BIGgain in dyno proven power across the power band!
Then oversized valves from engine builder. 1mm larger intake and 2mm larger exhaust (approx)
Those plus headers should wake a 3vze up!
#7
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and the knock sensor wire
and do NOT reuse your head bolts, well unless you want to do the HG again sometime soon!
Get Engine builders grade 10.9 head bolts!
and do NOT reuse your head bolts, well unless you want to do the HG again sometime soon!
Get Engine builders grade 10.9 head bolts!
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#9
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its a sensor found in the rear portiong of the engine valley underneath the lower intake. It bolts into the block itself. I detects if the engine is knocking and if it senses that it is, the ECU will retard the timing, and or send the truck into limp mode.
If you dont swap the sensor and wire, you could get a code that is for a non responsive knock sensor and the ECU will throw the truck into a limp mode that is VERY underpowered...
If you dont swap the sensor and wire, you could get a code that is for a non responsive knock sensor and the ECU will throw the truck into a limp mode that is VERY underpowered...
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