92 TOY's 22re / crapped out / gotta start somewhere / thread
03-25-2010, 12:51 PM
#1542
Registered User
when I did my rebuild Todd had mentioned if you can see the hourglass shaped markings on the screws to replace them and only with dealer parts not aftermarket. I opted to do that and replace the nuts as well. cheap insurance for the new head/valves and cam. In retro spec I wish I had bought a whole new rocker assembly including the upgraded oiling style shafts.
03-25-2010, 02:31 PM
#1544
Registered User
I replaced my screws. Ditto on wishing for a whole new rocker assembly, but they are pricey. I think Putney's was selling them for around $200. That was reconditioned Toyota rockers and the upgraded shafts.
Here's the wear pattern on an old screw.
Here's the wear pattern on an old screw.
Last edited by flyingbrass; 03-25-2010 at 02:33 PM.
03-25-2010, 02:48 PM
#1547
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question on the valve cleaning thing.......
1 valve at a time eh?? or do I take them all out and clean everything and them put them back. I'm guess either way is fine, just have to keep one million parts in order.
suggestions .......
Oh and a shopping list.....
valve spring compressor thingamajig..
magnet thingy
very small bottle brush thing for cleaning the passages (see i was reading the FSM)
1 valve at a time eh?? or do I take them all out and clean everything and them put them back. I'm guess either way is fine, just have to keep one million parts in order.
suggestions .......
Oh and a shopping list.....
valve spring compressor thingamajig..
magnet thingy
very small bottle brush thing for cleaning the passages (see i was reading the FSM)
One valve at a time, for ease of rememberance. YAY!!!!
03-25-2010, 02:50 PM
#1548
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Actually... you would have to have them cut and seated, not just lap them. That would be a machine shop job, around 250$...
03-25-2010, 02:59 PM
#1550
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
thanks for the compliments guys.
did anyone see the head bolt wedge job?(hiding at the driver's side guide)
on the 2 water tubes that are on either side of the top of the timing cover, do you use a gasket there?
the timing cover gasket was actually itself a gasket for those....I'm just wondering if there was or is supposed to be anything else there.
did anyone see the head bolt wedge job?(hiding at the driver's side guide)
on the 2 water tubes that are on either side of the top of the timing cover, do you use a gasket there?
the timing cover gasket was actually itself a gasket for those....I'm just wondering if there was or is supposed to be anything else there.
03-25-2010, 03:01 PM
#1551
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
10mm bolts (not head size) are 29ft/lbs
8mm bolts are 9 ft/lbs
the passenger's side water tube I used 9 ft/lbs on as well.
8mm bolts are 9 ft/lbs
the passenger's side water tube I used 9 ft/lbs on as well.
03-25-2010, 04:49 PM
#1553
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
thanks man.
yeas, i'm at the point where I am reading and re-reading everything, hoping and praying not to have to un-do or re-do anything.
currently i'm worried about placing the head on and not being able to get the chain on it.....guess i'll have to wait and see/
yeas, i'm at the point where I am reading and re-reading everything, hoping and praying not to have to un-do or re-do anything.
currently i'm worried about placing the head on and not being able to get the chain on it.....guess i'll have to wait and see/
03-25-2010, 05:00 PM
#1554
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
when I did my rebuild Todd had mentioned if you can see the hourglass shaped markings on the screws to replace them and only with dealer parts not aftermarket. I opted to do that and replace the nuts as well. cheap insurance for the new head/valves and cam. In retro spec I wish I had bought a whole new rocker assembly including the upgraded oiling style shafts.
I'm not finding that stuff on the dealer site.
where did you get your's from?
03-25-2010, 05:24 PM
#1555
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Yea but at least you have torn through it and have seen all the pieces fall apart. So if anything it should be a matter of looking at the pizza boxes and going slow to read and remember what each note means. Its straight forward! and just think, you get to drive it soon!
03-25-2010, 05:51 PM
#1556
Registered User
I don't know if you really need new adjusting screws. I used a new head and wanted fresh ones to ride against the new valves.
Adjusting screws are 90913-05019. I got mine from 1sttoyotaparts, but they may be cheaper elsewhere if that's all you're ordering. Shipping is 10% of the order cost or $10 minimum.
I reused my old nuts, but if you want new: 90179-08049.
Adjusting screws are 90913-05019. I got mine from 1sttoyotaparts, but they may be cheaper elsewhere if that's all you're ordering. Shipping is 10% of the order cost or $10 minimum.
I reused my old nuts, but if you want new: 90179-08049.
03-25-2010, 08:12 PM
#1558
03-25-2010, 09:43 PM
#1559
Registered User
BINGO...
that's the part that has had me sick since last week. when I "pryed" it off and then put it back together, it did not seat flush again....half of my brain thought the head bolts would snug it down, the other half thought it would falsify a torque reading....so in that respect, I am glad i will be doing this little "side project"....how many of those have there been?????
that's the part that has had me sick since last week. when I "pryed" it off and then put it back together, it did not seat flush again....half of my brain thought the head bolts would snug it down, the other half thought it would falsify a torque reading....so in that respect, I am glad i will be doing this little "side project"....how many of those have there been?????
Keep everything in order. Put it all back the way it was.
Check out Putney's other videos. I see they have added more since I last checked. The ring and piston installation ones almost made me sick. What that guy did in a few minutes took me hours. But, a big part of doing projects ourselves is to learn. Crawl, walk, run...
