Pumpkinyota

And then...

You realize you have the timing 180 out. Don't laugh, we've all done it. Basically, there are two types of mechanic: those who have built an engine with timing 180 out, and those who will build an engine with timing 180 out. I swear to god, if you finish this project without pulling the crank bolt after you swear that everything is complete, you are doing better than I ever have...

Loc-tite on this is not a good idea. It will be plenty tight, you will NEVER have a problem with it backing out. Almost every problem anyone ever has with any crank bolt ever is that they are too tight. You could put it in hand tight, and a year from now it would be impossible to remove (don't try this at home, though )

Loc-tite is great for bolts that are in a position to rattle out, that are under low torque, that aren't on a moving part. Also, make sure not to over-apply to these parts, you only need a dab about the diameter of a BB to do a whole lot of tightening.

Pumpkinyota

On all gaskets that aren't metal compressible gaskets (your head gasket is metal compressible, for frame of reference), I apply a thin bead of RTV on both sides of the gasket. Usually, I apply this to the parts in question, instead of the gasket. How thick this bead is depends on how wide the part to part contact is in the place where you are applying the RTV. For example, on the T-case to block contact, I apply a bead about the diameter of a BB.

On the Head Gasket, apply RTV to the corners of the block, and to the top of the T-Case cover, in accordance with the FSM.

Csbauer

I dont know what the end looks like and i dont know where your finally at...

BUT OMG my favorite thread of all time! and im only on page 18... where the coffee!

92 TOY

sad.


very sad.


And thanks PUMPINYOTA....this 180 degree phenomenon you speak of that I want no part of....how can I prevent this? I know how to bring the crank to #1 TDC...is that not enough?

92 TOY

page 18....balls.

that must have been like 6 months ago or about 3 steps from where I am now.....have to laugh at myself...really.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

put a dab of the rtv on your finger and paper thin coat the mating surfaces then lay the paper gaskets down. NO LOCKTIGHT!!! its not needed. Clean the oil pump and gears very well. When you're ready to install it. You pack the pump housing with gear in it with vasoline. It takes up the air in the housing so when you go to first prime the system it creates the vacum need to suck the oil into the housing to prevent the dry start. I've been told vasoline or bearing grease. Either will dissipate into the oil as the motor runs. Oh and .. Morning jerry

92 TOY

why are you up at this hour anyway....I get up early every day but holy hell it's 319 there.

ahhh yes, Vaseline, I forgot about that simple stuff.

oil pump is new from TED... still in it's bag ...looks kinda weird with it's irregularly shaped gears in the back.

TODAY's episode will hopefully go something like this....wife just left for work, hopefully kids willboth be healthy and go to school....if they do, I will do some more cleaning of the top and front block surfaces.

I also plan on going to Harbor Freight to get an in/lb torque wrench....other than that, i think I have all the tools I need to complete this.

I bought copper RTV yesterday, I remember OLHARLEYMAN using that with his head gasket, I believe, is that what I need to do?

today's list will be short...clean piston tops, clean top and front of block, rotate the crank a few times to clean everything up....this is when I use assembly lube , right? On the cylinder walls for that 1st start ,right?

oil pump doesn't get any RTV , right?...I see it has a rubber gasket thingy that gets pressed in the groove...so a spooge of that stuff would be unnecessary, right?

92 TOY

so back to the torquing question....

OK..water pump bolts are 2 protruding lines, makes it a 5T bolt, measures 5mm on my little ruler so I will go with the FSM for 6mm and that equals 56in/lbs.

oil pump bolts
2 little protruding lines means it's a 5T also, measures 8mm on my ruler so that equals 12ft/lbs


OBJECTIONS??

92 TOY

edit to the previous post.....those bolts have washers so they get bumped up to 6T, so that makes:

water pump 69 ft/lbs

oil pump 14 ft/lbs

92 TOY

and that 69in/lb also corresponds to the studs I'm using for the water pump...so 69 in/lb it is.

92 TOY

A correction and apology to LUMPY from yesterday's episode.

LUMPY had stated on a different thread that in the HAYNES manual there were torques specifications and I said there were not...I was WRONG......kinda.

While reading the manual in my Auxiliary TOYOTA Reference Review Room (AKA: Bathroom) and researching OIL PUMP removal and installation, I discovered that INDEED, the torques specifications ARE listed at the front of that section (page 66 to be exact).

BUUUUUUUUT..........still no torques specifications for the water pump....so I was KINDA right.

So my apologies to you LUMPY.*bowing down in shame*

Proof I was wrong.....




Proof I was right........

92 TOY

oh my, that 2nd one sucks but it says....

a/c mounting 20 ft/lbs
v-6 thermostat and v6 pump to block and that's all

92 TOY

shot TED and email about the oil pump assembly....gears were askew....

92 TOY

seriously.

what my "Office" looks like right now.

92 TOY

Looks like I end up with an extra "O" ring and Oil seal....not complaining either

Csbauer

Well at least your able to have started and this IS a great community to learn from and get help from.

Your an inspiration to my own work when i get the time this summer. Keep it up and i will learn where your at soon enough

92 TOY

thank you thank you.

ewwwww. don't type with oily fingers...there's a tip for ya.

92 TOY

took apart the old oil pump to see what's what.

well the drive gear stayed stuck to the timing cover so i wasn't really able to reference anything except that the gear went right back in without a problem...so i gained nothing out of that.

time for a shower and a run to Harbor Freight.

92 TOY

red are my questions, Ted's answers are in white.
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Hi. you said to write if I had questions.

The OIL PUMP. It was securely sealed in a bag held together by a rubber band but the gears ...and to prove I've been doing my reading...the DRIVE GEAR and the DRIVEN GEAR...were not flat inside the housing.

A few questions about this....

I took the DRIVE GEAR out but the DRIVEN GEAR still is not flat......what do I do next?

I want to install the pump today...maybe and want to have it all lined up properly.

Do I have to take the Relief Valve spring out to remove the rest of the stuff (DRIVEN GEAR)

are those TRIANGLES match-marks for something....are they supposed to point at each other or no?

Please give me some advice and help.....I'm a total newbie with this......if you ever have a few days free, you could read my thread on YOTATECH (92TOY is the screen name)...yes, it's that slow.

what parts of the pump do i smoosh with Vaseline?

If you could really, really, dummy it down for me I would most definitely appreciate it.



Hi!
They jiggle around and slip out in transport, we use the band to try and stop that but it still happens. If even slightly cocked they will stick.

I use my thumbs to give it a push, it should click right into the casting and then rotate easily.

Remove the inner gear, press the outer into place and lube it up. Take the outer ring out and start over if you have to. It should spin freely. Then insert the inner gear and rotate to distribute lube.

When correct, you will see the little arrows at the rear of the pump. Don't face those to the inside. Pack some grease or Vaseline around the gears and rotate a couple of times, then bolt her on, all there is to it.

No need to remove the check valve assembly.


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ted,

so the arrows mean nothing except I should be seeing them (facing me) but they don't have to line up with anything. right?



Yes, that is correct. The gears are directional, as long as you can see the arrows that is all there is to it.
Ted

yotarob2005

great, I needed those answers too! Are you going to use Vasoline or grease?