92 TOY's 22re / crapped out / gotta start somewhere / thread
#1321
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Sonora, CA (Central Sierra)
Posts: 447
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You realize you have the timing 180 out. Don't laugh, we've all done it. Basically, there are two types of mechanic: those who have built an engine with timing 180 out, and those who will build an engine with timing 180 out. I swear to god, if you finish this project without pulling the crank bolt after you swear that everything is complete, you are doing better than I ever have...
Loc-tite on this is not a good idea. It will be plenty tight, you will NEVER have a problem with it backing out. Almost every problem anyone ever has with any crank bolt ever is that they are too tight. You could put it in hand tight, and a year from now it would be impossible to remove (don't try this at home, though )
Loc-tite is great for bolts that are in a position to rattle out, that are under low torque, that aren't on a moving part. Also, make sure not to over-apply to these parts, you only need a dab about the diameter of a BB to do a whole lot of tightening.
#1322
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Sonora, CA (Central Sierra)
Posts: 447
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On the Head Gasket, apply RTV to the corners of the block, and to the top of the T-Case cover, in accordance with the FSM.
#1323
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lambertville, MI and Houghton, MI
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I dont know what the end looks like and i dont know where your finally at...
BUT OMG my favorite thread of all time! and im only on page 18... where the coffee!
BUT OMG my favorite thread of all time! and im only on page 18... where the coffee!
#1324
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
sad.
very sad.
And thanks PUMPINYOTA....this 180 degree phenomenon you speak of that I want no part of....how can I prevent this? I know how to bring the crank to #1 TDC...is that not enough?
#1325
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
page 18....balls.
that must have been like 6 months ago or about 3 steps from where I am now.....have to laugh at myself...really.
that must have been like 6 months ago or about 3 steps from where I am now.....have to laugh at myself...really.
#1326
put a dab of the rtv on your finger and paper thin coat the mating surfaces then lay the paper gaskets down. NO LOCKTIGHT!!! its not needed. Clean the oil pump and gears very well. When you're ready to install it. You pack the pump housing with gear in it with vasoline. It takes up the air in the housing so when you go to first prime the system it creates the vacum need to suck the oil into the housing to prevent the dry start. I've been told vasoline or bearing grease. Either will dissipate into the oil as the motor runs. Oh and .. Morning jerry
#1327
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
why are you up at this hour anyway....I get up early every day but holy hell it's 319 there.
ahhh yes, Vaseline, I forgot about that simple stuff.
oil pump is new from TED... still in it's bag ...looks kinda weird with it's irregularly shaped gears in the back.
TODAY's episode will hopefully go something like this....wife just left for work, hopefully kids willboth be healthy and go to school....if they do, I will do some more cleaning of the top and front block surfaces.
I also plan on going to Harbor Freight to get an in/lb torque wrench....other than that, i think I have all the tools I need to complete this.
I bought copper RTV yesterday, I remember OLHARLEYMAN using that with his head gasket, I believe, is that what I need to do?
today's list will be short...clean piston tops, clean top and front of block, rotate the crank a few times to clean everything up....this is when I use assembly lube , right? On the cylinder walls for that 1st start ,right?
oil pump doesn't get any RTV , right?...I see it has a rubber gasket thingy that gets pressed in the groove...so a spooge of that stuff would be unnecessary, right?
ahhh yes, Vaseline, I forgot about that simple stuff.
oil pump is new from TED... still in it's bag ...looks kinda weird with it's irregularly shaped gears in the back.
TODAY's episode will hopefully go something like this....wife just left for work, hopefully kids willboth be healthy and go to school....if they do, I will do some more cleaning of the top and front block surfaces.
I also plan on going to Harbor Freight to get an in/lb torque wrench....other than that, i think I have all the tools I need to complete this.
I bought copper RTV yesterday, I remember OLHARLEYMAN using that with his head gasket, I believe, is that what I need to do?
today's list will be short...clean piston tops, clean top and front of block, rotate the crank a few times to clean everything up....this is when I use assembly lube , right? On the cylinder walls for that 1st start ,right?
oil pump doesn't get any RTV , right?...I see it has a rubber gasket thingy that gets pressed in the groove...so a spooge of that stuff would be unnecessary, right?
#1328
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
so back to the torquing question....
OK..water pump bolts are 2 protruding lines, makes it a 5T bolt, measures 5mm on my little ruler so I will go with the FSM for 6mm and that equals 56in/lbs.
oil pump bolts
2 little protruding lines means it's a 5T also, measures 8mm on my ruler so that equals 12ft/lbs
OBJECTIONS??
OK..water pump bolts are 2 protruding lines, makes it a 5T bolt, measures 5mm on my little ruler so I will go with the FSM for 6mm and that equals 56in/lbs.
oil pump bolts
2 little protruding lines means it's a 5T also, measures 8mm on my ruler so that equals 12ft/lbs
OBJECTIONS??
#1329
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
edit to the previous post.....those bolts have washers so they get bumped up to 6T, so that makes:
water pump 69 ft/lbs
oil pump 14 ft/lbs
water pump 69 ft/lbs
oil pump 14 ft/lbs
#1331
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
A correction and apology to LUMPY from yesterday's episode.
LUMPY had stated on a different thread that in the HAYNES manual there were torques specifications and I said there were not...I was WRONG......kinda.
While reading the manual in my Auxiliary TOYOTA Reference Review Room (AKA: Bathroom) and researching OIL PUMP removal and installation, I discovered that INDEED, the torques specifications ARE listed at the front of that section (page 66 to be exact).
BUUUUUUUUT..........still no torques specifications for the water pump....so I was KINDA right.
So my apologies to you LUMPY.*bowing down in shame*
Proof I was wrong.....
Proof I was right........
LUMPY had stated on a different thread that in the HAYNES manual there were torques specifications and I said there were not...I was WRONG......kinda.
While reading the manual in my Auxiliary TOYOTA Reference Review Room (AKA: Bathroom) and researching OIL PUMP removal and installation, I discovered that INDEED, the torques specifications ARE listed at the front of that section (page 66 to be exact).
BUUUUUUUUT..........still no torques specifications for the water pump....so I was KINDA right.
So my apologies to you LUMPY.*bowing down in shame*
Proof I was wrong.....
Proof I was right........
#1332
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
oh my, that 2nd one sucks but it says....
a/c mounting 20 ft/lbs
v-6 thermostat and v6 pump to block and that's all
a/c mounting 20 ft/lbs
v-6 thermostat and v6 pump to block and that's all
#1336
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lambertville, MI and Houghton, MI
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your an inspiration to my own work when i get the time this summer. Keep it up and i will learn where your at soon enough
#1337
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
ewwwww. don't type with oily fingers...there's a tip for ya.
#1338
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
took apart the old oil pump to see what's what.
well the drive gear stayed stuck to the timing cover so i wasn't really able to reference anything except that the gear went right back in without a problem...so i gained nothing out of that.
time for a shower and a run to Harbor Freight.
well the drive gear stayed stuck to the timing cover so i wasn't really able to reference anything except that the gear went right back in without a problem...so i gained nothing out of that.
time for a shower and a run to Harbor Freight.
#1339
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
red are my questions, Ted's answers are in white.
**************************************************
************************************************** ***************
Hi. you said to write if I had questions.
The OIL PUMP. It was securely sealed in a bag held together by a rubber band but the gears ...and to prove I've been doing my reading...the DRIVE GEAR and the DRIVEN GEAR...were not flat inside the housing.
A few questions about this....
I took the DRIVE GEAR out but the DRIVEN GEAR still is not flat......what do I do next?
I want to install the pump today...maybe and want to have it all lined up properly.
Do I have to take the Relief Valve spring out to remove the rest of the stuff (DRIVEN GEAR)
are those TRIANGLES match-marks for something....are they supposed to point at each other or no?
Please give me some advice and help.....I'm a total newbie with this......if you ever have a few days free, you could read my thread on YOTATECH (92TOY is the screen name)...yes, it's that slow.
what parts of the pump do i smoosh with Vaseline?
If you could really, really, dummy it down for me I would most definitely appreciate it.
Hi!
They jiggle around and slip out in transport, we use the band to try and stop that but it still happens. If even slightly cocked they will stick.
I use my thumbs to give it a push, it should click right into the casting and then rotate easily.
Remove the inner gear, press the outer into place and lube it up. Take the outer ring out and start over if you have to. It should spin freely. Then insert the inner gear and rotate to distribute lube.
When correct, you will see the little arrows at the rear of the pump. Don't face those to the inside. Pack some grease or Vaseline around the gears and rotate a couple of times, then bolt her on, all there is to it.
No need to remove the check valve assembly.
************************************************** **********
ted,
so the arrows mean nothing except I should be seeing them (facing me) but they don't have to line up with anything. right?
Yes, that is correct. The gears are directional, as long as you can see the arrows that is all there is to it.
Ted
**************************************************
************************************************** ***************
Hi. you said to write if I had questions.
The OIL PUMP. It was securely sealed in a bag held together by a rubber band but the gears ...and to prove I've been doing my reading...the DRIVE GEAR and the DRIVEN GEAR...were not flat inside the housing.
A few questions about this....
I took the DRIVE GEAR out but the DRIVEN GEAR still is not flat......what do I do next?
I want to install the pump today...maybe and want to have it all lined up properly.
Do I have to take the Relief Valve spring out to remove the rest of the stuff (DRIVEN GEAR)
are those TRIANGLES match-marks for something....are they supposed to point at each other or no?
Please give me some advice and help.....I'm a total newbie with this......if you ever have a few days free, you could read my thread on YOTATECH (92TOY is the screen name)...yes, it's that slow.
what parts of the pump do i smoosh with Vaseline?
If you could really, really, dummy it down for me I would most definitely appreciate it.
Hi!
They jiggle around and slip out in transport, we use the band to try and stop that but it still happens. If even slightly cocked they will stick.
I use my thumbs to give it a push, it should click right into the casting and then rotate easily.
Remove the inner gear, press the outer into place and lube it up. Take the outer ring out and start over if you have to. It should spin freely. Then insert the inner gear and rotate to distribute lube.
When correct, you will see the little arrows at the rear of the pump. Don't face those to the inside. Pack some grease or Vaseline around the gears and rotate a couple of times, then bolt her on, all there is to it.
No need to remove the check valve assembly.
************************************************** **********
ted,
so the arrows mean nothing except I should be seeing them (facing me) but they don't have to line up with anything. right?
Yes, that is correct. The gears are directional, as long as you can see the arrows that is all there is to it.
Ted