92 TOY's 22re / crapped out / gotta start somewhere / thread
03-04-2010, 03:29 PM
#1044
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03-04-2010, 03:35 PM
#1045
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yeh, i think I will work on lapping the valves.
I bought a razor blade scraper set
I bought those metal toothbrush like things for doing the valves as well.
03-04-2010, 04:18 PM
#1046
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Really Jerry? REALLY DUDE? In my gear thread there is a link to zuk's thread about removing the front diff, with pics!
Way better then the fsm pics, I think. Just drop it all the way out, knock out the studs, then you are clear to work, easier to put the diff back in with new bolts instead of the studs getting caught. AND it's easier to pull it later WHEN you decide to regear. I'm just sayin!
Good to see you are getting after it.
Way better then the fsm pics, I think. Just drop it all the way out, knock out the studs, then you are clear to work, easier to put the diff back in with new bolts instead of the studs getting caught. AND it's easier to pull it later WHEN you decide to regear. I'm just sayin!
Good to see you are getting after it.
03-04-2010, 04:22 PM
#1047
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Really Jerry? REALLY DUDE? In my gear thread there is a link to zuk's thread about removing the front diff, with pics!
Way better then the fsm pics, I think. Just drop it all the way out, knock out the studs, then you are clear to work, easier to put the diff back in with new bolts instead of the studs getting caught. AND it's easier to pull it later WHEN you decide to regear. I'm just sayin!
Good to see you are getting after it.
Way better then the fsm pics, I think. Just drop it all the way out, knock out the studs, then you are clear to work, easier to put the diff back in with new bolts instead of the studs getting caught. AND it's easier to pull it later WHEN you decide to regear. I'm just sayin!
Good to see you are getting after it.
Jason is in my thread???
that's funny you say that because I never would have thought of it that way since I don;t have a question about the gears, but makes total sense.
Hey, quick question......I have a 22re with 31's.........
03-04-2010, 04:35 PM
#1048
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Ok what'd you have for breakfast and what color are your socks today?
03-04-2010, 04:44 PM
#1049
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03-04-2010, 04:55 PM
#1051
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Hehehe
03-04-2010, 05:22 PM
#1053
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those links in the other thread were from page 27 (I think) of this thread when I was doing my research.
besides the crankshaft bolt, this is the most troublesome part of this so far.
03-04-2010, 05:23 PM
#1054
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03-04-2010, 08:22 PM
#1058
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Yeah. This thread is hard to keep up with.
I'd try jacking the engine up, especially now that the diff is dropped down a little. Undo the motor mounts. Use a wood block (2x4 or whatever) on top of a jack placed on the bellhousing/tranny junction. Have your son or whoever else is available to help work the jack up slowly while you watch the parts you're worried might get mashed. You might get enough room.
Great idea doing a separate, uncluttered oil pan removal thread.
I'd try jacking the engine up, especially now that the diff is dropped down a little. Undo the motor mounts. Use a wood block (2x4 or whatever) on top of a jack placed on the bellhousing/tranny junction. Have your son or whoever else is available to help work the jack up slowly while you watch the parts you're worried might get mashed. You might get enough room.
Great idea doing a separate, uncluttered oil pan removal thread.
03-06-2010, 02:26 AM
#1059
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Yeah. This thread is hard to keep up with.
I'd try jacking the engine up, especially now that the diff is dropped down a little. Undo the motor mounts. Use a wood block (2x4 or whatever) on top of a jack placed on the bellhousing/tranny junction. Have your son or whoever else is available to help work the jack up slowly while you watch the parts you're worried might get mashed. You might get enough room.
Great idea doing a separate, uncluttered oil pan removal thread.
I'd try jacking the engine up, especially now that the diff is dropped down a little. Undo the motor mounts. Use a wood block (2x4 or whatever) on top of a jack placed on the bellhousing/tranny junction. Have your son or whoever else is available to help work the jack up slowly while you watch the parts you're worried might get mashed. You might get enough room.
Great idea doing a separate, uncluttered oil pan removal thread.
Thanks for the suggestion.
For now, I think I will keep approaching this from the "diff" angle...for now.
I sprayed the hell out of the "mounts" for the front diff (the 2 circular mounts) with PB Blaster on Thursday and will do it again this morning. If what I'm reading and hearing is true, if I take out those 2 bolts the whole thing should lower down. If that is NOT the case, I think I will approach this from the jack-up-the-motor method. But I have to keep thinking, how would they do it at the dealer.......seems like a very involved process if I just wanted to re-seal the oil pan gasket....really prohibitive if that was all you wanted to do.
Oh, and a little word of advice....maybe everyone else knows it.....PB Blaster may smell "nice" at 1st, but dear God, it nauseated the hell out of me the other night. I had the garage door closed when I was using it because it was very windy out, but I think I'd rather be cold than deal with that overwhelming desire to hurl again.
03-06-2010, 02:32 AM
#1060
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I am going to work on taking out the CIRCLED bolts today...does everyone agree this should drop the whole unit down....I mean the front end of the truck is up in the air.....jack stands under the frame and bottle jacks at the areas just outside of where the CROSSMEMBER is attached (removed now) and the diff is supported by a floor jack.....so if I take off those 2 mounts, do you think the whole thing....wheels and all will drop down?
Again....my Pennsylvania rust makes me a bundle of nerves to keep undoing or attempting to undo things....if I was a LUBRICATED as XXXTREME22R's, I may not worry so much, but it's not.
I'm not going to post this in that other thread yet....because I don't want to clutter that up.
