92 TOY's 22re / crapped out / gotta start somewhere / thread
02-18-2010, 09:50 AM
#921
Registered User
Hmmmm Loud metallic clicking/clunking/tapping/rapping sound not so good. I would gather to say that yes you had the valve hitting the head which is not really a good thing. Having a cross threaded plug, not too good either.
I'd plan on either pulling the head and replacing at least 1 valve and using a helicoil in plug. Or replacing the head. Might wanna replace the piston depending how bad it's lookin.
But don't touch it until you have some cash and parts, may as well swap cams while your in there. http://engnbldr.com will have all you need.
I'd plan on either pulling the head and replacing at least 1 valve and using a helicoil in plug. Or replacing the head. Might wanna replace the piston depending how bad it's lookin.
But don't touch it until you have some cash and parts, may as well swap cams while your in there. http://engnbldr.com will have all you need.
02-18-2010, 11:05 AM
#922
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Originally Posted by olharle
yman;51368719
yman;51368719
As for doing the machine shop and letting them rebuild the original head cost per dollar you will come out ahead with the engnbldr head and 261/268 cam.
As for the L.C. Engineering head and cam well I have the Pro Street set up and ended up getting the 268 cam from engnbldr to replace their matching cam and the set is $1049 vs. under $600 (and now he has free shipping) from engnbldr set up with the 268 and if you compare them you will see they are very very close to the same thing with the springs , guides and seals even the cam grinds are close.
all the mods to the head are geared toward better breathing = pulling power/horse power a little better mpg as well , I can run mine(268 cam) up to 52-5300 and it still pulls vs the 261 which IIRC superbleeder says cuts out around 47-4800 rpm hell my truck on 5.29's and 35's runs 90+ miles per hour very easily with a 5 speed
As for the L.C. Engineering head and cam well I have the Pro Street set up and ended up getting the 268 cam from engnbldr to replace their matching cam and the set is $1049 vs. under $600 (and now he has free shipping) from engnbldr set up with the 268 and if you compare them you will see they are very very close to the same thing with the springs , guides and seals even the cam grinds are close.
all the mods to the head are geared toward better breathing = pulling power/horse power a little better mpg as well , I can run mine(268 cam) up to 52-5300 and it still pulls vs the 261 which IIRC superbleeder says cuts out around 47-4800 rpm hell my truck on 5.29's and 35's runs 90+ miles per hour very easily with a 5 speed
02-18-2010, 11:34 AM
#923
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02-18-2010, 02:08 PM
#924
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all the mods to the head are geared toward better breathing = pulling power/horse power a little better mpg as well , I can run mine(268 cam) up to 52-5300 and it still pulls vs the 261 which IIRC superbleeder says cuts out around 47-4800 rpm hell my truck on 5.29's and 35's runs 90+ miles per hour very easily with a 5 speed
To clarify a little for the less technical, most times on these motors you want better flow on the EXHAUST side only (as olharley states when he mentions better breathing). You don't really want to increase flow on the intake side, unless you have done some radical modifications to the motor, as these engines tend to run a little rich as it is. To drastically oversimplify, more fuel = more horse at higher RPM, better exhaust breathing = better torque at lower RPM. A frequent mistake that beginning builders make is to over-gas or over-cam these motors, or otherwise bolt high fuel volume parts for hi-po applications onto a nominally stock motor. If you want to build it, you have to build it all the way...
If you have some cash and time to throw at the problem, and you want a quick 22-RE, copy olharley's rig damn near exactly, that has got to be one of the better balanced hi-po 22-RE's I have seen...
02-18-2010, 02:10 PM
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02-18-2010, 02:21 PM
#926
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Great to hear you're ready to jump back in! Sounds like you've got a great plan on what you'd like to do...very similar to mine. Oil pan is intimidating me a little too and the last time I looked underneath I noticed at least 1 sway bar bolt that has been broken off.
Quick question on the head for those much smarter than me...other than cost what are the performance benefits from taking your existing head to a machine shop? I was also considering the street RV head from EB and was curious if the machine shop could make my stock head BETTER than a new one from EB or LCE? What do I need to tell the guys at the machine shop I'd like done to improve the performance of my head?
Quick question on the head for those much smarter than me...other than cost what are the performance benefits from taking your existing head to a machine shop? I was also considering the street RV head from EB and was curious if the machine shop could make my stock head BETTER than a new one from EB or LCE? What do I need to tell the guys at the machine shop I'd like done to improve the performance of my head?
However, you can do a rough port and polish yourself, if you have some basic shop tools, a steady hand, and patience. Here is a link to step by step instructions from Popular Hot Rodding:
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec.../photo_10.html
I have never tried this myself, but from what I have gathered so far here are some important differences from doing this to a V8:
Port and polish the exhaust side only!
Don't remove much material, and be careful of getting too close to the valve seat.
I am casting about for a spare head now, to disassemble and test this on...
02-18-2010, 02:23 PM
#927
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God your R-motor is built, I'm a little jealous =)
To clarify a little for the less technical, most times on these motors you want better flow on the EXHAUST side only (as olharley states when he mentions better breathing). You don't really want to increase flow on the intake side, unless you have done some radical modifications to the motor, as these engines tend to run a little rich as it is. To drastically oversimplify, more fuel = more horse at higher RPM, better exhaust breathing = better torque at lower RPM. A frequent mistake that beginning builders make is to over-gas or over-cam these motors, or otherwise bolt high fuel volume parts for hi-po applications onto a nominally stock motor. If you want to build it, you have to build it all the way...
If you have some cash and time to throw at the problem, and you want a quick 22-RE, copy olharley's rig damn near exactly, that has got to be one of the better balanced hi-po 22-RE's I have seen...
To clarify a little for the less technical, most times on these motors you want better flow on the EXHAUST side only (as olharley states when he mentions better breathing). You don't really want to increase flow on the intake side, unless you have done some radical modifications to the motor, as these engines tend to run a little rich as it is. To drastically oversimplify, more fuel = more horse at higher RPM, better exhaust breathing = better torque at lower RPM. A frequent mistake that beginning builders make is to over-gas or over-cam these motors, or otherwise bolt high fuel volume parts for hi-po applications onto a nominally stock motor. If you want to build it, you have to build it all the way...
If you have some cash and time to throw at the problem, and you want a quick 22-RE, copy olharley's rig damn near exactly, that has got to be one of the better balanced hi-po 22-RE's I have seen...
If I could copy what he has done, I'd be VERRRRRRRY HAPPY. But gotta save up those pennies to do that. I've read his write-up, knows his stuff and has been an absolute resource and inspiration for me...whether he knows it or not.
My current life (as is the case with most everyone) is "if I do this, then I can do this" and so on and so forth.....as in, if I get this successfully buttoned up the I can sell the Caddy and get the 88 4runner on the road with the proceeds from that sale...and on and on. My life is like a house of cards...if 1 thing goes wrong........
02-18-2010, 02:27 PM
#928
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OH dear yes!!!
If I could copy what he has done, I'd be VERRRRRRRY HAPPY. But gotta save up those pennies to do that. I've read his write-up, knows his stuff and has been an absolute resource and inspiration for me...whether he knows it or not.
My current life (as is the case with most everyone) is "if I do this, then I can do this" and so on and so forth.....as in, if I get this successfully buttoned up the I can sell the Caddy and get the 88 4runner on the road with the proceeds from that sale...and on and on. My life is like a house of cards...if 1 thing goes wrong........
If I could copy what he has done, I'd be VERRRRRRRY HAPPY. But gotta save up those pennies to do that. I've read his write-up, knows his stuff and has been an absolute resource and inspiration for me...whether he knows it or not.
My current life (as is the case with most everyone) is "if I do this, then I can do this" and so on and so forth.....as in, if I get this successfully buttoned up the I can sell the Caddy and get the 88 4runner on the road with the proceeds from that sale...and on and on. My life is like a house of cards...if 1 thing goes wrong........
It's got to come eventually right?
02-18-2010, 02:35 PM
#929
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02-18-2010, 02:36 PM
#930
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Nothing wrong with savin some money and rollin with whatcha got! Hope you get your computer/camera thing fixed up... pics of the oil pan removal would be great.
02-18-2010, 02:40 PM
#931
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ahhhhh yes....the computer
LUMPY fixed me up with that, so I got my desktop back on the road now and I can actually type like normal, so my spelling should be better too.
I haven't tried loading any pics on it yet, not that I have anything interesting because it's toooooooo G-D cold to be laying on that floor....could be worse though...
02-18-2010, 03:56 PM
#935
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I was wondering where you got to.
nahh......called it quits in the fall when I was trying to get at the oil-pan and ended up breaking bolts getting the swaybar partially off....anyway, then I had no money...no ambition...basically said the hell with it until now. income tax refund deposited and I was just on ENGNBLDR's site.....I'm gonna email him...because if I order off ebay it's like 3 or 4 different shippings but if I order right from him it would be combined, I assume...so I will just have to wait until Saturday to check again.
so, stay tuned, it's gotta get warmer and I will get my butt back out there.
02-18-2010, 03:56 PM
#936
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02-18-2010, 04:01 PM
#938
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02-18-2010, 04:36 PM
#939
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How can you NOT be on YOTATECH every day and hours and hours every waking available moment
For some dang reason I'm TOTALLY addicted to this site...ask my family...wife especially
.If I'm not catching up on the antics of the boys on the "BUMPER" thread or BLEEDER and TEUF on the "USLESS" thread..I'm ping-ponging my way around on here...usually getting my balls busted on my own thread or talking non Toyota with LUMPY.
This is like convincing someone it's actually GOOD to smoke
. But that's me, my 2 bad habits...YOTATECH and smoking.What is it I do for a living again???........hahahahahahhaha
02-18-2010, 04:53 PM
#940
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doing some shopping on engnbldr's EBAY store:all prices are final price w/ shipping
($157.58)Timing Cover w/ oil and water pumps, new timing set and gaskets
($46.90) Head gasket kit...all necessary gaskets / seals etc
($37.98)New head bolts
TOTAL $242.46
Thing is,if he combines shipping I may save a few bucks...maybe $10...whoopie! But it's $17.60 (timing cover) / $10.00 (headgasket set) / $10.00 (head bolts).
I know I just shipped a 28lb something for under $16, so likely he could combine all that in one.
($157.58)Timing Cover w/ oil and water pumps, new timing set and gaskets
($46.90) Head gasket kit...all necessary gaskets / seals etc
($37.98)New head bolts
TOTAL $242.46
Thing is,if he combines shipping I may save a few bucks...maybe $10...whoopie! But it's $17.60 (timing cover) / $10.00 (headgasket set) / $10.00 (head bolts).
I know I just shipped a 28lb something for under $16, so likely he could combine all that in one.
