92 TOY's 22re / crapped out / gotta start somewhere / thread
11-19-2009, 01:44 PM
#662
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
Here's my life......
went out in the garage, jacked up the truck, looking at all the obstrucions, wife comes out.......kid has a pretty good chicken pox rash. Had a provisional diagnosis of it 2 weeks ago, only had a small patch on his right shoulder......I doubted it was pox but I went along with it.......kid was off from school for a week and had been out the week before because of a fever and cough but never more than 1 night was he anywhere near sick..........saw him naked last night in the tub (he's 7), no rash.......tonight....LOTs of rash on his belly / groin and to his u-no-what.....
this night is over......off to the Dr.
Oh, and to answer the criticism you guys are dishing......paranoid??...yeah, alot, that's why I'm asking questions. Sill waiting for answers too.
went out in the garage, jacked up the truck, looking at all the obstrucions, wife comes out.......kid has a pretty good chicken pox rash. Had a provisional diagnosis of it 2 weeks ago, only had a small patch on his right shoulder......I doubted it was pox but I went along with it.......kid was off from school for a week and had been out the week before because of a fever and cough but never more than 1 night was he anywhere near sick..........saw him naked last night in the tub (he's 7), no rash.......tonight....LOTs of rash on his belly / groin and to his u-no-what.....
this night is over......off to the Dr.
Oh, and to answer the criticism you guys are dishing......paranoid??...yeah, alot, that's why I'm asking questions. Sill waiting for answers too.
11-19-2009, 02:13 PM
#665
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11-19-2009, 02:28 PM
#667
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11-19-2009, 02:28 PM
#668
Registered User
My advice is to decide now whether you are going to pull the block or not. If you *might* later, then go ahead and do it now.
As a fellow newbie to engine work, I can say I'm really glad I pulled my engine in the beginning. It's not only easier to work on, but you get a better perspective of how everything fits together.
Removing my oil pan took about 10 minutes. Flipped the block over on the stand and removed the bolts. Spent about 5 minutes finding and filing an old putty knife. A minute or two tapping it in around the edges, and off she came. I'll also have an easier time reinstalling. I can lay down a nice bead of FIPG and not worry about smudging it trying to wiggle the pan into place.
As a fellow newbie to engine work, I can say I'm really glad I pulled my engine in the beginning. It's not only easier to work on, but you get a better perspective of how everything fits together.
Removing my oil pan took about 10 minutes. Flipped the block over on the stand and removed the bolts. Spent about 5 minutes finding and filing an old putty knife. A minute or two tapping it in around the edges, and off she came. I'll also have an easier time reinstalling. I can lay down a nice bead of FIPG and not worry about smudging it trying to wiggle the pan into place.
11-19-2009, 04:04 PM
#669
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
My advice is to decide now whether you are going to pull the block or not. If you *might* later, then go ahead and do it now.
As a fellow newbie to engine work, I can say I'm really glad I pulled my engine in the beginning. It's not only easier to work on, but you get a better perspective of how everything fits together.
Removing my oil pan took about 10 minutes. Flipped the block over on the stand and removed the bolts. Spent about 5 minutes finding and filing an old putty knife. A minute or two tapping it in around the edges, and off she came. I'll also have an easier time reinstalling. I can lay down a nice bead of FIPG and not worry about smudging it trying to wiggle the pan into place.
As a fellow newbie to engine work, I can say I'm really glad I pulled my engine in the beginning. It's not only easier to work on, but you get a better perspective of how everything fits together.
Removing my oil pan took about 10 minutes. Flipped the block over on the stand and removed the bolts. Spent about 5 minutes finding and filing an old putty knife. A minute or two tapping it in around the edges, and off she came. I'll also have an easier time reinstalling. I can lay down a nice bead of FIPG and not worry about smudging it trying to wiggle the pan into place.
Understood and I appreciate the input.
The engine will be left in.
I know you guys like busting me about this, so feel free. But I would appreciate if someone could identify those pics too.
11-19-2009, 07:44 PM
#670
Registered User
The second time I removed the oil pan I did not have to undo the diff bolts. BIG PITA to get back in there. I did the first time, only because I had no way of lifting the motor/trans up. Did it in a field when I first spun the rod bearing, just to take a look at it. What I did the second time, was remove the two motor mount bolts on each side that hook the mount to the frame, and then hoisted up with my crane, however you can do the same by putting a block and a jack under the trans to lift it up to right where the bell housing hits the firewall. You may or may not have to unbolt the steering stabilizer (shock) if you have one to give you some room to wiggle out the pan. Once you get all the bolts off the pan, you have to remove the pickup tube from the block to get the pan out. there are 4 12mm bolts that have to come off. two up front on the passenger side, one in the center of the block thats on the middle main bearing cap and one on the passenger side about half way back. Let the bolts and tube fall into the pan. the pan is a tight fit coming out, but it will go. I found it easier to do it this way then when I did it the first time with dropping the diff. Sorry no pics. However this is what the pickup tube looks like:
11-20-2009, 02:48 AM
#671
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
Thanks xxxtreme22r!!!!!
I took some pics last night BEFORE I got stopped....I am going to get under the truck again today, likely.
I'm thinking though, what if I just needed a new oil pan gasket at the dealer or local garage, how would they do it?
I took some pics last night BEFORE I got stopped....I am going to get under the truck again today, likely.
I'm thinking though, what if I just needed a new oil pan gasket at the dealer or local garage, how would they do it?
11-20-2009, 03:38 AM
#673
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
This post is just to organize some info...........
Pages from the FSM regarding this......looks like it recommends BOTH "removing" the front diff AND jacking up the motor (less than an inch, it reads)
Pages from the FSM regarding this......looks like it recommends BOTH "removing" the front diff AND jacking up the motor (less than an inch, it reads)
11-20-2009, 03:40 AM
#674
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
If I am reading that corectly, now I need another floorjack to jack up the transmission while the other one is steadying the diff and while the truck is also on jack-stands......sounds like it leaves little room for my body to fit under there.....??????!!!!!?????
11-20-2009, 04:13 AM
#679
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
copied from another thread.......
Oil Pan removal on 2nd Gen 4WD Pickup - HOW TO
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Everyone,
I'm in the process of doing a new head/cam/etc./etc. to my 89 4WD PU. The motor is a rebuilt 22RE that had less than 600 miles on it when the headgasket blew.
One thing led to another, and after I wound up cracking the old head by overtightening some header bolts (part of the reason the gasket blew, I believe) .... :pat:
I decided it was time to put a new head and cam on from engnbldr.com and a host of other mods.
I decided not to pull the engine again, so I was left with getting the oil pan out by hand. I decided I had to remove the oil pan in order to remove some of the gunk (coolant) that got in there when the head gasket blew. I wound up doing a bit of research on the process and determined that it was going to be a bit of a job, as the 'right' way to do the job is to move some of the front end to get the pan out. I went through the process in a day and I wanted to share it w/ everyone in hopes this will help someone else out sometime down the road.
1. Jack up the truck and put it on jack stands and then put the jack under the front diff.
2. Remove the 4 bolts from the swaybar that runs under the transfer case/tranny and front drive shaft and let the sway bar hang down and out of the way. This has to be lowered to give the differential enough room to drop.
3. Remove the front crossmember (5 bolts). 4 of the bolts are facing you laying down in front of the truck and the 5th bolt is in the huge mounting grommet on the front differential.
4. Remove the 2 bolts from each of the remaining 2 front differential mounts and lower the front diff about a good 6-8 inches by lowering the jack. The first 2 bolts are to the right of the front diff (facing it) and are by the driver's side CV boot. The other 2 are 'behind' the face of the differential and mount the top of the diff to a huge mounting braket on the passenger side. You'll get to these by going behind the diff under the truck. They are close to the passenger-side swaybar grommet. Kind of go 'up and over' the back of the front diff and you'll find them.
5. At this point, the front diff is lowered a good bit and, assuming you've unbolted the oil pan, it will move around really well, but still won't come out.
6. Unbolt the steering dampener (1 bolt) and let it drop out of the way. The dampner looks like a small black shock absorber that attaches to the steering relay rod. The relay rod is the rod that is attached to the pittman arm (driver's side) and the idler arm (passenger side).
7. I had to run out to Autozone to get a ball-joint separator so I could pull the relay rod off of the pitman rod end. Get a small screw-type seperator and not a wedge type so you won't tear up the rubber seals. Once I did that, the relay rod would swing down and out of the way, and I was then able to pull the pan out of the front (it won't come out of the rear, as you would think).
8. Oh yeah, I also had to unbolt the oil pump pickup tube (4 bolts) and let it drop into the pan. After that, the pan comes right out.
The installation of the pan, is, as they say, the reverse of removal.
Once the pan is out of the way, you can get a gasket scraper/die grinder/whatever up to the block to do a good cleaning job. Just make sure you torque everything to spec and don't overtighten the oil pan bolts.
Other than that, the whole 'sub-project' went pretty well. I had to use a second scissors jack in order to help jack the differential back up in a few key areas so I could align the bolt holes. Otherwise, it all went right back together as it came apart.
Hope this helps someone else out... I couldn't find anything resembling a write-up on the net and the Chilton/Haynes manuals were less than helpfull when it came to details.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by AllCammedUp; 07-21-2003 at 11:43 PM.
Oil Pan removal on 2nd Gen 4WD Pickup - HOW TO
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Everyone,
I'm in the process of doing a new head/cam/etc./etc. to my 89 4WD PU. The motor is a rebuilt 22RE that had less than 600 miles on it when the headgasket blew.
One thing led to another, and after I wound up cracking the old head by overtightening some header bolts (part of the reason the gasket blew, I believe) .... :pat:
I decided it was time to put a new head and cam on from engnbldr.com and a host of other mods.
I decided not to pull the engine again, so I was left with getting the oil pan out by hand. I decided I had to remove the oil pan in order to remove some of the gunk (coolant) that got in there when the head gasket blew. I wound up doing a bit of research on the process and determined that it was going to be a bit of a job, as the 'right' way to do the job is to move some of the front end to get the pan out. I went through the process in a day and I wanted to share it w/ everyone in hopes this will help someone else out sometime down the road.
1. Jack up the truck and put it on jack stands and then put the jack under the front diff.
2. Remove the 4 bolts from the swaybar that runs under the transfer case/tranny and front drive shaft and let the sway bar hang down and out of the way. This has to be lowered to give the differential enough room to drop.
3. Remove the front crossmember (5 bolts). 4 of the bolts are facing you laying down in front of the truck and the 5th bolt is in the huge mounting grommet on the front differential.
4. Remove the 2 bolts from each of the remaining 2 front differential mounts and lower the front diff about a good 6-8 inches by lowering the jack. The first 2 bolts are to the right of the front diff (facing it) and are by the driver's side CV boot. The other 2 are 'behind' the face of the differential and mount the top of the diff to a huge mounting braket on the passenger side. You'll get to these by going behind the diff under the truck. They are close to the passenger-side swaybar grommet. Kind of go 'up and over' the back of the front diff and you'll find them.
5. At this point, the front diff is lowered a good bit and, assuming you've unbolted the oil pan, it will move around really well, but still won't come out.
6. Unbolt the steering dampener (1 bolt) and let it drop out of the way. The dampner looks like a small black shock absorber that attaches to the steering relay rod. The relay rod is the rod that is attached to the pittman arm (driver's side) and the idler arm (passenger side).
7. I had to run out to Autozone to get a ball-joint separator so I could pull the relay rod off of the pitman rod end. Get a small screw-type seperator and not a wedge type so you won't tear up the rubber seals. Once I did that, the relay rod would swing down and out of the way, and I was then able to pull the pan out of the front (it won't come out of the rear, as you would think).
8. Oh yeah, I also had to unbolt the oil pump pickup tube (4 bolts) and let it drop into the pan. After that, the pan comes right out.
The installation of the pan, is, as they say, the reverse of removal.
Once the pan is out of the way, you can get a gasket scraper/die grinder/whatever up to the block to do a good cleaning job. Just make sure you torque everything to spec and don't overtighten the oil pan bolts.
Other than that, the whole 'sub-project' went pretty well. I had to use a second scissors jack in order to help jack the differential back up in a few key areas so I could align the bolt holes. Otherwise, it all went right back together as it came apart.
Hope this helps someone else out... I couldn't find anything resembling a write-up on the net and the Chilton/Haynes manuals were less than helpfull when it came to details.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by AllCammedUp; 07-21-2003 at 11:43 PM.
11-20-2009, 05:07 AM
#680
Registered User
Your gonna regret dropping that Diff, I did, as for the oil pan gasket, if you were to take the bolts out, the pan drops enough to get the gasket off and place a new one on. The cross member is also a PITA to get back in. and if not lined up properly, can affect alignment.
I'f I come down there. I'll have that thing out in less than 20 minutes
I'f I come down there. I'll have that thing out in less than 20 minutes
