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92 TOY's 22re / crapped out / gotta start somewhere / thread

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Old 02-08-2013, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 92 TOY
SNOBBS....
still waiting to get the proper opportunity to do this job. lotsa things in my face right now.
Take your time...I don't need it any time soon.
Old 02-08-2013, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Terrys87
Thanks Jerry and snobdds. I never knew a tool like that existed and would make doing the bearings so much easier and probably do a bettter job all the way around.

I hear you on the negativity but this is still a great site. It sounds like I will be going over and playing with the Taliban again and they dont play nice. Last time I was over there I got some free time and was on the computer and that is when I discovered Yotatech. Somehow I stumbled on your 92 thread and each time I got the chance I was checking in to see where you were at. I got my two weeks back home and I was on the computer and you Brandon were getting ready to start it up and wife was asking what was I doing home on the computer when I had 100 other things to be doing. I said I had been following your build for quite some time and then ITS ALIVEEE!!! You gave me something to look forward to while over there. You gotta start another project now, just kidding, but this site is great and helps out tremendously.
that made my day. thanks!

Originally Posted by snobdds
Take your time...I don't need it any time soon.
thank-you!
Old 02-08-2013, 08:39 AM
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Does anyone know what is wrong or how to fix a 92 v6 manual door lock? Prob is door will open but key wont lock or unlock?
Old 02-08-2013, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 92 TOY
here ya go
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/...ol_detail.html

gotta say, with all the negativity that has happened on this site lately and within my life, it's very nice to have the likes of you guys with the generosity of loaning a tool and advice.
Holy crap that's rad, packing bearings is by far my LEAST favorite job. Thanks, Jerry, for finding me something else I just must buy. Fortunately, I just replaced my wheel bearings, so I won't need to buy one for a little while...

On the negativity, where are the moderators lately? I tried to referee an argument in the cheap mods thread the other day, and failed miserably. I hadn't seen that kind of behavior in a big public thread in a loooong time...
Old 02-08-2013, 10:23 AM
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wow........look at this guy!

good to hear from ya bud.
Old 02-08-2013, 04:52 PM
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Anyone have any idea why my 92 king cab v6 yota's passenger door will not open with the key? Poor mans version non power, door will open and close but key will not lock or unlock. Would appreciate any ideas.
Old 02-08-2013, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by tkincaid
Anyone have any idea why my 92 king cab v6 yota's passenger door will not open with the key? Poor mans version non power, door will open and close but key will not lock or unlock. Would appreciate any ideas.
lotsa little parts in there. you gotta take the inside panel off and see what does what when you move things. may even have to take the other side(driver's side) off to see EXACTLY how the mechanisms work. sorry. can't help ya more than that. when I replaced my door and switched locks, I had to fiddle to figure it out.
Old 03-07-2013, 02:56 AM
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HI. still alive. almost wasn't but that's a long story.

anyways.....

still have yet to do the hub service. Joe has a job now and between his schedule, my schedule, snow, other weather, fire and ems calls and other stuff, we have put almost everything on hold.

a few things....I'm a huge puss when it comes to doing something I have never done....so the hub service has me concerned. I gave away my torch a while back, so I am looking for a new one to have for those cone washers.

2nd...what the hell is a brass tap?? where do i get one, can i be using something else?

3rd...I have yet to order the hub parts. not a big deal, because I am sure it would just be a matter of a day or 2 to get them.

4th....losing ton of coolant from my truck. can't put my finger on anything either. in my pessimist brain, I am thinking I likely have a small headgasket leak. no appreciable extra steam from the tailpipe....no more than normal or that everyone else has. no visible leaks. I did notice last night that when I took the radiator cap off, I needed about a pint, but my overflow was full. what the hell does that mean? my brain says that I am being over-pressurized and it's not enough to blow the cap, but is enough to push it into the overflow. why it isn't getting sucked back in, is beyond me.

so....I think it's gonna be time to pull my motor and re-do this thing the right way....on a stand.
Old 03-13-2013, 05:32 AM
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yep. a ton. went through a gallon of water last week and about 3/4's of a gallon so far since sunday.

HAD a compression tester, but it got borrowed and subsequently ruined. But I told him it was OK (XXXTREME) since he's helped me so much in the past.

so. short term plan is to find other means of transportation right now in case the inevitable happens. I can't dig into this thing not really knowing what is up with it, until I have an alternate ride.

stay tuned.

the only thing I can think of that I possibly did wrong with my build, was I never went back in there and re-torqued those head bolts like ENGNBLDR recommended. I just really didn't want to take the valve cover back off.....or I was lazy....or both.

truck still runs like a top though. and all I can think of right now is that I am losing water shortly after start-up in the 1st few minutes and subtly after that. again, no appreciable over-steaming from the exhaust.
Old 03-13-2013, 05:48 AM
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My 92 v6 did the same thing you are describing. It was a head gasket "going" bad the water went straight out the exhaust, never noticed it until I stood and watched. Also found freeze out plugs gone too. Hope this helps.
Old 03-13-2013, 06:08 AM
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freeze plugs are still good.
thinking about popping the valve cover and seeing if I could get any turns out of the head bolts. certainly would be easier than rebuilding the whole thing again.but if I screw up at this point, I would be down a vehicle.
compression test would be nice at this point....if only to confirm what I suspect.
inspection camera would be good too, to see if one of my piston tops has been steamed clean.
Old 03-13-2013, 07:02 AM
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well. this will likely be the 1st thing I try. used the search to find mention of ENGNBLDR's recommendation of torquing down to 63#. can't tell you all what I torqued to, but just wanted a nice solid number to do when I pull the valve cover. guess I should get a valve cover gasket and those little rubber grommet thingys for under the acorn nuts.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115.../#post51662763

but honestly, just turned over 215,000 2 days ago. which means it's been 22,000 since I did this repair.
Old 03-13-2013, 10:05 AM
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If u already have newer v-cover gasket..... Dont really need another, but its so cheap. Wish I was near by, BY LUNCH we'd be done! Haha... Jk, it'd be fun though, getting to meet u and the fam!

64# I went to...... at 12k mi ( on this motor I did myself/ with felpro-permatorque hg) .....still holding strong. Hope its not timing cover related, right? U did urs within the rig.... did u resurface the block any???

Chase those holes and drain em really well bubba..... I throw in a quart of atf, turn it over and run for a min, then kill it, drain, tear down, reassemble, add 1/2 to 3/4 qt. ATF w/some cheap oil in the first rerun at 64#, run it 20 minutes with the ATF in there, kill it, let it sit a half hour, drain and refill with the good stuff..... and go! Lol. ....

ATF traps moisture within its mollecular structure, which is why adding some before draining and otherwise..... gets all of it quickly o u t of all the crank crannies and nooks, frim the head bolt holes, etc. Think they have something like Stabil for the crankcase too.
Old 03-13-2013, 11:49 AM
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thanks bud.

for now I am gonna see if I gain any ground on a re-torque.

IF....big IF...we find another vehicle ASAP for less than $1k, my truck will get pulled off the road and get the complete package (maybe SAS....yeah right!), but think I might lock the rear or do an e-locker. but anyhoo, there's enough little projects on my truck that it almost needs a body-off resto, but will suffice to have a box and fenders-off resto.

stay tuned.
Old 03-13-2013, 05:33 PM
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So....did the 're-torque thing. All but one were at 58 to start and then sequentially torqued to 63. Hopefully this helps. Will post pics tomorrow and explain better.
Old 03-13-2013, 07:34 PM
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Sounds like a plan. .... Hope it does the trick, Jerry!

Anxious to find out, lol
Old 03-14-2013, 02:47 AM
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well, being that I had to run into town (23 miles one-way) to get the valve cover gasket kit (felpro), I didn't actually get started on this until after 8pm. but we buttoned everything back up by 915pm, and then I ate supper etc etc etc. so, that's why I didn't post much up.

a few observations:

-only had to remove the vacuum lines off the power steering, otherwise everything was able to stay in place, of course, with the exceptions being whatever was attached to the valve cover.

-oil looked good, rockers looked good.

.......

I am questioning myself in that I am wondering if I should have loosened all the head bolts first and then done the tightening sequence. I was more worried about mixing the vacuum lines up (no worries, since they did not get unplugged) than I was worried about the actual head bolts.

I was satisfied when I set the wrench to 58 and Joe was there calling out the sequence and the wrench would click on the 1st attempt, but then when we got to #6, I got, at least, a 1/4 turn before it clicked. so not really sure what that means.

in my little brain, I want to say #6 was the culprit. but, after Lord knows how many heat cycles, does that mean my head is now warped? why would one be loose?

also, when I set the wrench to 63, I got almost NO movement out of any of the bolts, exception being the #6 again. I am shakey enough about this that I feel like I should open it back up, loosen everything up and tighten it again. but, in my pea brain, I am afraid that this will spell certain doom for my head gasket by breaking any seal it has and contaminating it.
Old 03-14-2013, 03:20 AM
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alrighty. some pics;

after 22,000 miles, I would say the motor still looks good....if nothing else.

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and the money shot:

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this is a pic of the box (I love boxes) that we used as a guide for the torque sequence. Joe put an arrow by #6 to show that it was loose and the several marks near every number, show how many times we actually went over these bolts.

Old 03-14-2013, 04:01 AM
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so, anyways. what say the concensus? go back in and loosen them all up and then tighten them all down to 63?
Old 03-14-2013, 04:46 AM
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in my opinion, i think if you re-torqued them they're fine. seeing as how they stretch a bit under torque, i wouldn't mess with them other than to check and/or tighten them. plus, i know that #3 on your diagram is a pita to break loose (it's the one i broke and everyone has a problem with)


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