Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hello Jerry, just checking in and only have a few moments, but seen your problem, havent went back and read everything. Trying to use this gel on the rust. I am starting to like it better then PB Blaster. Open your bleed valve and compress with clamp and then close bleed valve and work brake. Basically working back and forth. It will be a pain and slow. This gel has been doing wonders for me lately. Hope this helps.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Once or if you get the pistons out Extreme has a good way of getting them going again.

92 TOY

thanks guys.


I'd rather take this crap apart, see what's what and go from there. near as I can recall, this is the 3rd set of calipers on the front, so yes, this has been done before, never by me,and when it was done, i didn't have a clue except to say 'fix it". well, i still don't have a clue and have to say 'fix it" again.


so barndon, if you know what to do to get these off, tell me, show me or point me in the right direction. I've searched and actually printed off a generic "how-to" to try to get me some knowledge.

i wanted to be driving this g-d thing, not parking it again for months.

92 TOY

step 1:
take wheel off....done

Step 2:
PB blaster everything...done

Step 3:
FSM and Hayne's on the hood open to appropriate pages....done

Step 4:
take off brake line with appropriate flare wrench (10mm)....GD IT!!....round off bolt

so that's where I stop??

92 TOY

steps 1 thru 3



step 4

92 TOY

OK...I see why you were able to find stuff and I wasn't. I was looking at the "loaded" ones and you weren't.

need a little guidance here guys. I assumed the "loaded" ones were all inclusive and what I needed....pads, etc.

decided I'm not gonna fart around here and just leave it be until payday, which is, 9 days from now. so, if you make me a shopping list, i will get it after that.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I was heading out the door at work and got home to look at your problem a little better. The rounded bolt is a downer.

I would suggest and dont like it but the situation is what it is. I would put a pair of vice grips on it with just enough pressure to get a good bite on it and then tap the vice grips not so hard as to break it loose but more to send vibrations to the bolt to try and break the rust up. I would even be tempted to tap it in the direction that would actually be tighting it. Trying to work it back and forth. A tightening and loosening direction.

Dont clampt it so hard as to distort the bolt with the vice grips. Only suggestion that I can come up with. I am always looking for other ways of doing things and maybe some one else can chime in that has something better.

Maybe also try tapping around the brake cylinder near the bolt with ball peen or small hammer and vibrating it.

92 TOY

i don't have a torch, but if i set the truck on fire, i very likely will be able to loosen that nut up.

it's ok man....we'll get it.....just want things to go easy....once...would be nice.

the rulebook is always thrown out the window here dealing with all this corrosion.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Dang, Jerry... I"m really sorry, man! I hate to see you hitting walls like this nearly every time... And even worse?>>> I think it's partly why I love your threads so much..... (NO, NOT cuz you're suffering along with me! lol).... because you struggle through and always get it!

THIS LINE IS "POST TOASTY", AM I WRONG? I know, you can add a line , etc., Just saying, ..... Instead of thinking of it as though you are going to do this "with the line intact".... maybe it might help to saw it off to around an inch left, leaving some to try and tap on, lightly, as you attempt to loosen the nut as per Terry's plan(or WHOMEVER is the 'winner-winner-chicken-dinner' idea having guy of the day! hahah).

Tell me if I am wrong... is this line DONE, or is it not?

*****************

Far as preventing this.... I had a buddy back east(he's now in Palm Springs), who used to work for Ford(in Michigan).... he said that he would use anti-seize and then put a blob of RTV around them.... (and other "problem future" jobs)..... That way, when it's time to do it again, he'd just tear off the crap with some pliers/lil pick, etc., and the bolt/fitting would be fresh-ER than normally. He did this at the Brake MC as well. I guess it kinda makes sense, now, looking at this and many other Yotatechies who've had this problem. (Is this crazy?) lol.

PS> Maybe file some edges back on it and then try the vice grips?

92 TOY

I had used vice grips lightly because i didn't want to crush it. no point in trying it now, because even if i get it out, all i will accomplish is draining the brake fluid.

will wait until i have parts and then just give it hell.

xxxtreme22r

This statement usually works out well for you Jerry.

"Don't make me come down there"

92 TOY

yeh..well..I put it back together and parked it outside again.

if i knew what the hell i was looking for i'd make up a shopping list. and with me living all the way out here i don't want any of those "oh, i forgot...." moments.

priority 1 is to be able to get that brake line off...well, THOSE brake lines off since this will be done on both sides. Logan mentioned braided lines....is this something i should do right now? the lines of concern are about 10 inches long.

2nd will be to know what the hell i need...just calipers?..."loaded" calipers??...loaded calipers and those pins you linked???

throw me a bone and let me know what i need....plz

92 TOY

Ok...so, if it all goes as planned, which it rarely does, Brandon will be coming down (up) here for a mini wrench-fest IE: help me replace the driver's side caliper. have not been sure just how brutal to be with this stuff since I've never done this before. hopefully, in short time, I will be back on the road with my truck.

bough the caliper from AUTOZONE yesterday....$41.99 plus $35 core equals incentive to get this done quickly because I want my $35 back.

caliper includes springs and pins, all that was missing are the pads. and, being that I had no braking issue before this current episode, I have no fear of the condition of the pads.

as bait to lure Brandon down here, I have used the pressure-washer-lure. it is employed when someone has the consistency of cured concrete encapsulating their engine.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hahaha.... love the "bait" section at the end! hahaha... I don't blame him, either! Makes it a lot easier.

Best wishes with this, man! Hope it goes without incident..... Waiting for pics, hehehe.

92 TOY

the brake job was the easy part. the pressure washing was the hard part (Brandon could explain that).

xxxtreme22r

Yeah done and not so done. Jerry owes me a set of calipers (he's contagious) and I think I blew a drivers side CV doing 55-60 mph on the say down there (they were already pretty much on the way out for the past year or so) because I had the hubs locked. More in my build thread.

92 TOY

took me truck for a 3 mile ride. it's good to go.

yay. thanks brandon.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Congratulations.. Bet that is a big relief. Glad to see you got it on the road again. Just in time for this time of year.

Way to go Brandon. You are one that make YT a great site. See you on several other threads and always have great info. Great job as usual.

xxxtreme22r

Thanks guys, but Jerry already had that new caliper on when I got there. He saw a post on my Facebook page from Wabbit about how to tackle that brake line fitting. Which his truck is 100% better then mine when it comes to rust. Gave him the confidence to tackle it before I got there. The only thing I helped em do was bleed the front brakes.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Brandon..... you're honest/humble, that's enough for me! hahaha... And HEY, at least you WENT to help, right?