Lumpy

A lift like that would have helped your rebuild... Sorry about the FAIL man, so close. I always use my e-brake just for that reason...in all my vehicles; auto and manual.

My opinion is that you just get under there and start to wiggle things about and see what isn't moving and give it a heavy dose of man cologne; aka PB Blaster. Maybe give it a bit of a push with a BFH the cable should not be stuck beings that it's coated (should be coated). There are only a few parts that can freeze up and once you get under there you'll see them. Probably not in the drums but somewhere in the linkage.

xxxtreme22r

Hey you paid me with a propane torch when I did yur valves and timing.

I was expecting more than $300 for the oil pan gasket. But still kinda high though.

I'll do it for $299 hahahahahah J/K .

Your ebrake issue can be the bell crank, but also look at the little pivot point on the axle, I had to loosen mine up to get that to move in order to get mine to work.

Magnusian

92 Toy, just so you know, from personal experience, you're gonna love fixing your parking brake. Here's to hoping you kept up on the maintenance on your rear brakes, or you're gonna find yourself in a very similar position as myself: replacing everything but the axle shafts.

Oddly enough, I know a guy who has two axle shafts with working brakes still attached (parking brake engagement supposedly works but the external levers need the WD40) that he's selling, they're in good shape (though they could use some TLC) and they're the larger style of drums (from the earlier years I'd guess, I almost thought they were 1-ton drums when I first saw them) too.

92 TOY

the guy showed me what wasn't working and all pics point to bell crank.....he said "every one that comes in here does this....i could do it or you could do it and bring it back in an you're good to go"....some incentive there.

92 TOY

hey, kinda surprised that torch didn't kill ya....yet.

did anyone read that PDF file? that i linked......nice write-up.

xxxtreme22r

I have't had to use it, ..... yet. You might need it to free up yur ebrake though hahahahahaha.

Pitman arm came off without having to use it. I got to go outside and fix it again though as my steering wheel is off a little bit now. grrrr....

Lumpy

Did just now...I think ours are a wee bit different thought.

92 TOY

here we go again...





this is the part he was talking about and also the part in that PDF file that it calls the BELL CRANK



soaked it with PB Blaster...gave it a few raps with a rubber mallet.....will keep at it.

need to get #8 x 1.25 bolts to back the drums off...

Lumpy

Sometimes if you tap, tap, tap on the drum with a hammer it will loosen up. Not too hard just tap, Tap, TAp, TAP, Whap!

92 TOY

when you say "it", you mean the drum will loosen up, right?

Lumpy

yes sir... It (the drum) should loosen up. Tap on the "drum"

92 TOY

thanks for tat.

does this sound right?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=44-0

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Back at the beast, eh?

92 TOY

grrrrrr...yeh

92 TOY

ya know...i was headed down to work for a quick dove bomb visit...so i was running to auto-zone to see if i could get thayt part i linked which apparently is the whole shebang.....of course, "vendor provided part"..."vendor out of stock".....ska---rooed.

so i bought more PB Blaster....



and then a couple taps with the rubber mallet, and the drum loosened right up and was removed easily ...



so i sprayed more PB Blaster on the inner working of that crank bell thing (that i can't find even with a google search) and a couple raps of the hammer.....and.....nothing.

so i'm gonna study that write-up and see what's next.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

And lets not forget that we installed the o ring and rtv after the motor was in the truck... good thing i fit into small spaces.

92 TOY

once i put that lower intake in place i had like no room to maneuver it...so what was done, was done before the intake was set on top of that pipe.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Yeah.. almost forgot.. lower and upper intake were on as well. it was all done through the acces plate in the passenger front wheel well.

You may need to pull apart the rear brakes unbolt that piece and take it to the bench vice pull the boot off of it and heat and soak for a while.

92 TOY

yeh...i've soaked those bolts a few times with PB...i dread the idea of breaking bolts...

did you see that PDF link...it's very good.

Lumpy

Hmmmmm interesting...very interesting in deed.

I'm going to have to agree with vital here. Take the rear brakes apart and then get the "not moving piece" to a vice and make it a "moving piece". Looks a bit cruddy in there blow it out with your compressor but be wary of the dust so of the pads are made with asbestos so your not going to want to breath the dust.


I hate messing with drum brakes...