theAuthority

I would turn each piston to TDC and use a wire brush on a drill and clean the tops. Would also send the head out to have is magna-fluxed and rebuilt.

Why not do it if you have another car and can let this one sit?

If you're spending all the time ripping it apart, why not show it some love and give yourself peace of mind?

92 TOY

I agree.

Problem is, everything up to now has been free, so now it's gonna be a while buying a little at a time and so on.....plus i'm gonna poll everybody on what to buy and so on and so forth.

how much does a machining job like you mentioned cost?

Lumpy

After you get all the gasket material off you can take a square and see if anything is warped. The walls seem to be alright, as well as I can tell and the cylinder heads, well there alright I suppose. I used some brake cleaner and a window scraper with razor blade to clean mine.

Good job, now it's easy going from hear on out...well until you go for the oil pan. But were not going to talk about that now.

theAuthority

Depends on the shop

I had my heads done (2) magnafluxed, boiled, rebuilt for less than $200 at NAPA in a small town ..

92 TOY

yeah, the oil pan , you had to add that in there PSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSST----CLUNK.... back down to earth i go.

kidding.

no, i am super curious to see what i find in there.....maybe even like a wad of 50's to pay for this.

for now, i'm gonna rest on my laurels and wait for a chain wrench to appear on my doorstep...maybe it will. i'm still waitin for 'BLEEDER to bring by an engine stand and lift in his new Camaro when he gets it.

92 TOY

Also....for those of you looking at the pics above, don't foget, the head was filled with wter / oil and there was still fluid in the coolant tubes,so there was some spillage.

Lumpy

I don't know about using a wire wheel on the pistons. I think steel wool might be better choice.
As for the heads, yes getting them done is by far the best option. Clean them up best you can and go from there. Take a square and see if it's warped.

theAuthority

I used a really fine/soft wire wheel, that wouldn't gouge the metal. But I wouldn't worry about that, the pistons are really strong. Just don't scratch the cylinder walls (why i said make sure the piston is TDC)

I've never been able to trust a square on a block whlie it's still in the engine bay, hard to see from the sides if it's flat or not ..

Lumpy

I guess if you use a soft enough one...I donno maybe its me buy wire wheel and piston just don't seem to go together. That just worries me...

As far as the square the block is probably alright...I was talking about the head not the block. Sorry if what I stated was confusing.

theAuthority

Oh, the shop checked to see if it was square when they did the work for me. Even threw in a port and polish !

theAuthority

You're also only an hour or so away from rebuilding the bottom end. You can do that without pulling the engine... but up to you.

Lumpy

Well he's gotta drop the pan...soooooo who knows.

Authority, didn't you just get that thing? you came from Jeep land? How's it running?

theAuthority

84th vehicle since I was 12.

clutch just blew out,

replaced EVERYTHING, literally... while I was under there.

pilot bearing
clutch disc
pressure plate
flywheel
rear main seal
throwout bearing
transmission input shaft seal / gasket
transmission gear oil 75w-90 4.1 qt

I also replaced slave cylinder - master cylinder and replacing the entire steel line between them with braided lines.

Took me 3 days, dawn til dusk ... pry bar, ratchet strap, air gun/compressor, breaker bar, torque wrench 3/8" drive, 2 inch extension, hydraulic floor jack and 2 jack stands.

Here is pictures I took while I did it this weekend.

http://s209.photobucket.com/albums/bb9/kraelo/

92 TOY

OK, more PORN.........

underside of head, over #1 and #2

[IMG][/IMG]

over #3 and #4

[IMG][/IMG]

What the hell is this?????

[IMG][/IMG]

this is the #3 plug.......notice it did not thread down as far as the others. keep in mind that i DID change the plugs AFTER this broke down....so the carbon etc...is from about 3 start-ups.

[IMG][/IMG]

What is this part? the part that sticks out from the head that looks like it has internal tubing.

[IMG][/IMG]

I lke this picture. My son's truck is the future project...notice he has the hood up because he'd like to be working on his truck right now too.

[IMG][/IMG]

Overall, thought the condition of the head and the gasket looks good

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Inside of the head.......of course, do i have to explain?? yes, from the timing chain.

[IMG][/IMG]


Now, someone etter than me could identify this. To me, it looks like the likely area where the timing chain eroded through the wall enough to cause the leak.....that's my diagnosis based on the color difference that looks like a leak area.

[IMG][/IMG]


Ok, that's enough for now.

Good news too, i scored a chain wrench and a helper for tomorrow. WOOHOO!!!

theAuthority

That head is disgusting with extremely large emounts of carbon build up .. just like the pistons

the 'what the hell is this' pic, looks like lime deposits of some kind in the coolant tubes.

If I had the shop / space / time I would rebuild the whole engine ......... Pull the block out, strip it and send it in for cleaning just like the head ....

92 TOY

oh i know it LOOKS like crap. but does it look like the headgasket failed. my novice opinion is no.




yes, i am resigning to the fact that pulling the block as well is probably in my future.....when i do that i will have crossed over to the OTHER SIDE........BWWWWAHAHAHA!!

theAuthority

No it doesn't look like the headgasket failed to me ..

But harder to tell with pictures, than in person.

Especially if you drove it an extremely small amount after you thought it failed.

92 TOY

i know this is an extremely long thread and for the most part it's a way fo me to document my progress while getting sound advice from you guys BUT, this all started last summer (July) when i 1st spotted the oil /water concoction....then used THERMAGASKET, assuming it was the head and AFTER i replaced the terrible radiator.......it ran fine for about 6 or 700 miles until one fateful night about a month ago when i had an EPIC FAILURE that finally sidelined it.............my post-mortem diagnosis is that oriinally it was the timing chain that causedthe original failure and the THERMAGASKET did what it was supposed to do and clogged the hole but not clog anything else.....but being that the chain guide was still gone and still rubbing the wall, the thermagasket didn't stand a chance.......and then here we are today.

i'm a helluva lot smarter than i was a year ago and helluva lotsmarter tonight than i was this morning.

THAT's what I call HAVING A GOOD DAY. Every day you should try to learn something, and today I learned ALOT!

92 TOY

Oh yeah, PS........when reaching it to pull the head up and out......if you have pushbar...PAD IT!! or at least don't lean right across it with your gut.........OUCH!!......I'm gonna feel that for a few days!!!

Lumpy

That head is kinda tons of carbon...yucky and the hole you are looking at is a bit plugged with oil and that stop leak stuff...The more I'm seeing and the further you go I'm going to have to agree, I think the block should be pulled and rebuilt as well. You have to get all that gunk out from the Thermogasket stuff. Can't leave any of that in.



I believe what you are referring to is part of the water jacket on the back of the head, if I'm not mistaken.

Save up your pennies and go tor the master rebuild kit, the 268 cam, and if you really wanna do it up go for engnbldr's head. Ok just go with your head but get it cleaned, I don't think you can get into all those passages and have it right.

The only think that would concern me would be getting the correct bearings for the crank and connecting rods. You need to use a crush gauge (not sure what the correct term is). I have not had the lower end apart so your heading into unknown territory there. You will have to follow OlHarley...and post good pic's so I know what to do.