pwd

Ya I was hopeing to get an A340H, I'm gonna be calling around locally to see what I can get. Any knowledge about that NASCAR Extereme battery?

bigtrucknwheels

Probably just extra cost for the same battery. Most batteries are pretty similar. If you want to spend some money on a really good battery though, go with an Optima yellow or red top.

And I don't care that it needs work, that is still a niiice find. That thing is in very very good shape. The paint isn't even faded! Better wax it since its been sitting so long, to preserve that thing haha.

pwd

So summer has started for me, although its fairly cold out today. Yesterday I got some work done on the 4Runner. Got a good battery (Interstate, not sure what model), drained the rad/added Prestone rad flush, and tried to pump as much gas out of the tank as possible. The oil has also been replaced with some really cheap 10W30 just until the 4Runner is road worthy. After we were done all that, we tried starting it up but it wouldn't go. It was leaking gas quite a bit, so the next step is to replace the fuel line. I just went to the store and got a 6ft length of high pressure rubber fuel line and a couple of new clamps, the trouble is I have no idea where the fuel line goes up into the engine compartment. Is there any where that has a diagram of the fuel lines for this? I have a Haynes manual, and I check an FSM for a 93 Truck but it doesn't appear to be in there. The line appears to be steel from the tank up to the left front door, then it turns into rubber which is where it is leaking. Does the fuel line near the engine become a steel line again, so I can just replace the rubber?

mt_goat

Be careful those rubber fuel lines are for the old carb motors, the fuel injected systems run higher pressures and a simple hose clamp might not work to good.

On mine the lines changed from steel to high pressure flex line near the passinger wheel well area of the engine bay. Just follow the hard line until you see the coupling.

The blue line in this pic is an example of a replacement highpressure fuel line:

abecedarian

Sorry to go off topic here dale, but is that aluminum foil wrapped around the pipes?
If so, did you put any insulation in there (assuming you did it for heat reasons, or even did it yourself)?

mt_goat

This shows my fuel hard line where it was disconnected from the flex line. It right next to all the brake lines.

mt_goat

Its foil tape for heat protection. I started off with some nice heat wrap stuff from Summit, but ran out and got the foil tape at walmart along with some fiberglass repair stuff. I wrapped the fiberglass around the fuel lines and then wrapped the foil tape over that. I know its kind of getto, but I didn't want to wait on Summit to send me more of the nice stuff.

abecedarian

I may sound paranoid or something, but you didn't pull it tight, right? You need the air trapped underneath to insulate. Just asking.

mt_goat

Its not perfect, but it helps. Just the foil tape alone should reflect some radiant heat.

abecedarian

mom used to wrap my soda and juice bottles in foil and they'd stay quite cool til lunch.
mom was a baller

Sorry i hi-jacked the thread... carry on.

mt_goat

Smart mom, that must be where you learned all your ABC stuff.

pwd

Thanks for the pictures mt_goat, that helped! We got the fuel line fixed yesterday and it still wouldn't start. There is another leak around the gas tank, most likely around the fuel pump. I'll have to drop the tank and see where the leak is, I've also ordered a new fuel filter.

I've read this thread and looks like it will come in handy as it has some Toyota part numbers for the pump bracket etc... In the meantime, I'm going to spray down some bolts with PB Blaster and hope for the best. I'm also removing random brackets from the engine bay and trying to grind down some rust and spray some paint. I'll try and take some pictures, looks like this is turning into a newbie fix-up/build thread!

P.S. I've located someone in my area who has a used A340h transmission that came out of a 4Runner with a thrown rod. They said it was working when the motor went, so it sounds decent and the guy only works on Toyota trucks.

mt_goat

Sounds like you should just replace the whole fuel line. Its not too hard to do while you have the tranny out.

turborich

You know guys, My truck is a 2wd xtra cab V-6 with the auto trans & it has plenty of power. I really don't understand why so many people say it's gutless. Maybe it's because they haven't been properly maintained? I know this for sure, my 3.0 auto will walk all over my Friends 22R 5 speed with a header, exhaust & Weber carb. I also have no issues pulling 2000-3000 lbs in my trailer behind it. I will say this though, the engine is in excellent condition & an aftermarket trans cooler was added as well. The truck has not been abused either. the 3.0/auto gets a bad rap & I really don't see why. It's like any other vehicle, you abuse it & it will fail. My trans says AISAN on it. Would this still be considered one of the "jeep" transmissions?

pwd

This gas tank will have to be removed by someone else since the bolts are all rusted and might as well be welded on. Does anyone know of anyplace that would sell the brackets that bolt onto the tank, which are also bolted onto the fuel tank skid plate? I'm sure mine are not going to be salvageable due to the rust.

bigtrucknwheels

Toyota sourced Aisin parts long before Jeep, but yes, they are almost the same trannys, and are almost bulletproof. The shift solenoids are the weak links in these.

What year is your 3.0? The Mid-1990 model year and older 3.0 engines had asbestos head gaskets and rarely failed in comparison to the newer ones, where head gasket failure is really not a question of if, but when.

pwd

Yesterday I had some frustrating times. I tried removing the drive shaft so the Runner so it can be towed or put on a dolly. The bolts are really tight and hard to get at so I'll have to be able to spin the shaft. If i put the Runner up on blocks will it spin?

Failing that, I then attempted to drain the gas tank, since the gas tank has to be removed anyway. The head of the bolt stripped and there was gas everywhere, but we got most of it into containers.

So the solution to all the rusted and crappy bolts is to buy all new factory ones. I came across this very useful site to get all the part numbers for the nuts and bolts I'll need.

Is there anyone here I can order the factory parts from? Also, for a product like a small bolt, are they sold individually or in packs of four/whatever is need for the application?

Thanks again!

TNRabbit

The 2WD weighs about 1000 lbs less than the 4WD, so I'm SURE you don't notice the weakness of the 3.0 lke us 4x4 owners . Mine's running 210 psi compresson so it's a little LESS gutless than the standard, but it won't rev over 5000 rpm due to the increased compression pulling too much air & it sucks the life outta that itty bitty VAFM entryway~