92 22re dies after 2-3 seconds
#1
92 22re dies after 2-3 seconds
I'm working on a 92 Toyota Pickup 22re. I've owned it for 3 years.
A couple of days ago I replaced the distributor cap, spark plugs, spark plug cables, cleaned the air throttle and the ICV, and replaced the PCV. I turned the ignition on and it fired right up, I let it warm up for 5 minutes and off for a test drive. The engine was purring, except when I stopped, it idled pretty high, 2900-3100 RPM. I pulled over, turned the truck off, waited a minute, and now it won't restart. I just get a faint chuga chuga like it wants to start.
I checked the battery and it read 11.83 volts, so I charged it and tried again. The truck started up and smoke started coming from near the passenger side. Quite a bit of smoke, it looked like it was coming from the starter solenoid. I replaced the starter, now the truck starts and stays on for 2-3 seconds, every 5th or 6th time it will stay on for a 5-6 seconds.
I ran diagnostics and got no error codes.
A couple of days ago I replaced the distributor cap, spark plugs, spark plug cables, cleaned the air throttle and the ICV, and replaced the PCV. I turned the ignition on and it fired right up, I let it warm up for 5 minutes and off for a test drive. The engine was purring, except when I stopped, it idled pretty high, 2900-3100 RPM. I pulled over, turned the truck off, waited a minute, and now it won't restart. I just get a faint chuga chuga like it wants to start.
I checked the battery and it read 11.83 volts, so I charged it and tried again. The truck started up and smoke started coming from near the passenger side. Quite a bit of smoke, it looked like it was coming from the starter solenoid. I replaced the starter, now the truck starts and stays on for 2-3 seconds, every 5th or 6th time it will stay on for a 5-6 seconds.
I ran diagnostics and got no error codes.
Last edited by Terrys87; 08-28-2015 at 06:03 AM.
#2
I have 94 and I have been going thru the Devil to get mine to run,Still not right but we narrowing it down, anyway unplug the heat sensor that is directly under the throttle position sensorshould be a green plug and see if it will run. mine did so I replaced the sensor. that worked fine for a day now it's something else. We thinking along the lines of a new ECU.Hope that helps
#3
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Fortunately, this is the easiest problem to diagnose on your truck. Jumper FP to B+ on the diagnostic connector. This forces the fuel pump to run with just key-on. If that makes the problem go away, you've found the source.
(Don't drive around with the jumper in. If you get in a collision that breaks a fuel line, you want your fuel pump to shut off INSTANTLY.)
#4
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if the vafm park switch is not working, either because it's not pulling air, or the switch is bad, the fuel pump will not stay on. doing the jumper will bypass the vafm park switch.
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Did you happen to disconnect the air intake from the throttle body while doing other stuff and forget to reconnect it. Starting and running for 2-3 seconds and then dying is a classic symptom of no flow through the VAFM. The VAFM (air flow meter) needs airflow to keep the fuel pump running once you release the key.
#6
RJR gave you the cause; there's almost certainly something wrong in your VAF-COR circuit. You checked that the VAF looked like it was plugged in (important), but is the circuit good?
Fortunately, this is the easiest problem to diagnose on your truck. Jumper FP to B+ on the diagnostic connector. This forces the fuel pump to run with just key-on. If that makes the problem go away, you've found the source.
(Don't drive around with the jumper in. If you get in a collision that breaks a fuel line, you want your fuel pump to shut off INSTANTLY.)
Fortunately, this is the easiest problem to diagnose on your truck. Jumper FP to B+ on the diagnostic connector. This forces the fuel pump to run with just key-on. If that makes the problem go away, you've found the source.
(Don't drive around with the jumper in. If you get in a collision that breaks a fuel line, you want your fuel pump to shut off INSTANTLY.)
Jumper FP to B+ to and the truck runs.
Regarding the VAF-COR circuit, VAF stands for Variable Air Flow, what does COR stand for?
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Volume Air Flow (Meter) http://web.archive.org/web/201008061...e/volumeai.pdf
Circuit Opening Relay
http://web.archive.org/web/201008061...e/circuito.pdf
Circuit Opening Relay
http://web.archive.org/web/201008061...e/circuito.pdf
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#8
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I had a similar problem where after it's been driven several miles up to normal operating temperature then parked for a few minutes when I ran to the ATM. When I returned it had trouble starting until after 15-20 minutes where I think it cooled off then started on the first crank. When I jumped FP & B+, it still didn't start so I checked the coolant and heat sensors, both were to spec or within range. I had a Jacobs Ignition system from 1993 when I bought the truck and it sounded like when the anti-carjack switch was on - just cranking and cranking. I bypassed the Jacobs and it works now. I removed it and tossed it in the trash. Hopefully that was the problem and so far after a month, it starts fine. But if not, I'm curious to see what the solution is for Yota_Q's initial post.
Last edited by anndel; 10-05-2015 at 12:42 PM.
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