91 4runner wont turn over?
#43
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Well, with repeated use, that wire will heat up to some degree. It is fairly small gauge and is not really rated to handle a 20 amp continuous load. But that said, you normally don't run around for hours on end with the starter cranking away. Does the small wire at the solenoid feel as warm or not? If not, those hot wires might be the source of the problem. Why? Well if there is some resistance in that wire then that resistance times the square of the current (20amps times 20amps = 400amp^2) is equal to the power dissipated in that wire, so using the 0.175 ohm figure from your 9 volt test would say 400amp^2 times 0.175 ohms and that equals about 70 watts. Your headlights are like 60 watts and see how hot they get.
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Well, with repeated use, that wire will heat up to some degree. It is fairly small gauge and is not really rated to handle a 20 amp continuous load. But that said, you normally don't run around for hours on end with the starter cranking away. Does the small wire at the solenoid feel as warm or not? If not, those hot wires might be the source of the problem. Why? Well if there is some resistance in that wire then that resistance times the square of the current (20amps times 20amps = 400amp^2) is equal to the power dissipated in that wire, so using the 0.175 ohm figure from your 9 volt test would say 400amp^2 times 0.175 ohms and that equals about 70 watts. Your headlights are like 60 watts and see how hot they get.
or do you think there's a chance the switch is hanging, keeping the solenoid energized?
#46
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Not sure, but a Factory Manual for your year truck would have the answer. Only 4 connections for the starter relay. You have 2 for the coil and 2 for the contacts. On the coil, one side is hooked to the ignition switch and the other side to ground ultimately. Send power via the ign. sw. and current flows though the relay coli and it pulls in it's contacts. On the contact side, one side hooks to some source of power, either the ignition switch (in stock form) or to the battery if you modify the circuit) and the other side runs to the starter solenoid (small wire) and then to ground via the starter's connection to the engine block.
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Ok i Just cranked it up again several times. Before it go to the operating temp it quit cranking. I was checking the wire that was hot before and it wasn't hot. When the truck stopped cranking I held the wire and it got hot fast. I dont get it.
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Abec are you suggesting the ignition switch getting stuck? The relay clicks everytime so wouldnt that mean the ignition switch is working or no? I just dont get why it would crank several times before it reaches a certain temperature that it stops all together. The starter is from oreillys, is it a p.o.s. and can't take the heat? Because I have bought two of them from there. But what would heat cause to stop things from working. Also its not like the temp has to go down a little to start again it has to go alllll the way down.
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What is the circuit opening relay and where would it be located? I checked the b-w wire in the ignition switch. It too is getting hot, when the runner wont turn over. That wire connects to the black wire on the relay that is hot also.
Last edited by Tomh4x4; 09-13-2008 at 05:34 PM.
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this whole thing has me flummoxed
I've got a 72 firebird that used to 'sort of' act this way, but I would have to drive it about 50 miles, and even then I could smack it with a hammer and get it to work. It turns out that the solenoid on my 'bird wouldn't work because clearances are very tight between the moving parts in the solenoid... and the heat from the pipe was warming it up... but I had few options to fix it because the exhuast left the manifold right next to the starter so I couldn't reduce the heat much, other than by installing a heat shield on the solenoid from Summit. I went through 5 starters and each would work fine for a while, but would act up the same way after about 3 months.
You do not seem to have the same problem as I do because your's works once and that's it.
I've got a 72 firebird that used to 'sort of' act this way, but I would have to drive it about 50 miles, and even then I could smack it with a hammer and get it to work. It turns out that the solenoid on my 'bird wouldn't work because clearances are very tight between the moving parts in the solenoid... and the heat from the pipe was warming it up... but I had few options to fix it because the exhuast left the manifold right next to the starter so I couldn't reduce the heat much, other than by installing a heat shield on the solenoid from Summit. I went through 5 starters and each would work fine for a while, but would act up the same way after about 3 months.
You do not seem to have the same problem as I do because your's works once and that's it.
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The circuit opening relay basically provides power to the fuel pump when cranking and when the engine is running, but opens the circuit to the fuel pump if the air-flow meter does not detect air being sucked into the engine.
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Well you said the heat problem you dont think could be mine. But technically I can crank up the truck to a certain temperature. After that it wont crank, until the truck cools down all the way or possibly the starter cools down all the way. But why would this just start happening now. I have had the problem for about 2-3 years but the truck mainly sits because of this problem. However before that it worked fine just like a yota should. So is it a cheap starter from Oreilys that gets heated up and stuck? shorting the wires out and heating them up? Or is that way out of the picture?
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Now is there a way to force turn the starter while it is hot without the ignition system. If it doesn't turn the starter over when it should no matter what, then I would say the heat is my problem. If the starter turns over then it is most likely something else.
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Ok I crossed over the starter and it fired up as suspected. I don't know what else would cause it to work sometimes and not others. I guess I'll try the hot shot relay thats the only thing I can think of.
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