My Brother in law has an 89 Toyota 4Runner with the 3.0L Engine.

His power windows stopped working in him, So I offered to come over and help him fix his problem. Well 3 hours later, and still nothing.

We are not getting power to the switches. anyone know where the relay is ?

IT IS NOT HERE Like mentioned on 4Crawlers Site


We looked all under the dash, Nothing, in the kick pannels, behind the seat belt re-tractor,

Some one on here must know !

I searched. no luck.

 

u check the fuses ?

 

Oh yeah a couple times. Unless those are hiddin somewhere special

 

BUMP anyone ?

Where is the power window fuse ? I check all the fuses under the dash and under the hood.

HELP

 

theres 3 places for the fuse block kick panel under the dash pessenger side under the hood my book says that relays are not 2 far from what they power

 

The fuse for it is labeled of all things "Power CB " (It's a circuit breaker.)
It's in or attached to the main fuse panel in the left kick panel.
See the diagrams I put up in the other thread, might help.

 

Seems on the later 1st gen Runners they use a Power Window Module not a relay, Toyota wanted $419 Cdn plus 15% Tax for this puppy. (Stupid Stealerships)

FIX:

Run a power line from the battery with a 30AMP fuse, into the door. Splice this Power line into the Blue Wire with Red Stripe (Located: Drivers Side Window Switches)

This Bypasses the Power Window Module all together. The neat part is that the windows will go up and down with out the key in the ignition.

 

This seemed like the right place to continue this topic.

were is the exact location for the passenger side window relay? on a 1st Gen
Is it a single relay or a relay window regulator module?
Is there a seperate module for the drivers side?

the passenger & driver circuit breakers i have found under the driver kick panel on the fuse panel. The window relays are noton this panel or on the "Interlock/ regulator module"behind the driver side panel.

My symptoms are classic Relay problems, starting intermittently.
These modules are simply & cheaply repairable, if you can find them.

 

Ok, this is what i have found so that other searchers don't reach a complete dead-end.

this is applicable on my 86runner & possible with 86-89.

-the drivers side kick fuse panel is different than "4crawlers" 85, although it does house the "driver & pass Window CB's" (circuit breakers).

-the relay module is labeld ( Door Control ) <Toy p/n: 85980-89101 >, <ND p/n: 051500-0930 >. Located about 6" above right of the Kick fuse panel. [This module seems to be more of a logic timer device meaning that the windows will work for a few mins after the key is removed, which was a surprise to me. In my case this was disabled due to a burned open trace on the module circuit board.] aside from this, the module was fine, allowing I to flow through to the drivers sw's.

-symptoms: (passenger window failure.) started w/passenger window switch was intermittent. over time the passenger sw didn't work at all & finally over more time, it couldn't be controled from the drivers side.

- the problem, like everyone says, the door sw's. even after cleaning all of the contacts, was not solving the problem. What i found was mild oxide growth on the "rivotted contacts" (between the rivots & the bus tracing), which had continuity and allowed I to flow, but prohibited enough to actuate the window motor. Each contact had only about 2ohms, but adding every contact that I has to passthrough was enough.
I started with some soldering to the window lock sw "contact rivot" {(on the driver door sw panel) (which opens a path to ground) if this is open there will still be +V at the passenger side sw}, then the window was intermittent. so i did the rest (both driver/pass sides) & good as new. the door locks work again too.

- the fix: on the very back of the window sw's,you will see these rivoted contacts.
clean w/ emmory cloth,
clean w/ water (nutralizes oxide),
rinse w/ IP alcohol. (contact cleaners will make the plastic brittle)
apply solder to bridge the rivots to the bus tracing. (on the back)
apply dialectric grease (where the switch rockers ride)

-conclusion: unless both windows are dead & no V at drivers side switch, the door ctrl module is fine.

 

Looking for some help with PW's, since the info here does not seem to solve my problems. I have an 87 1st gen, 4cyl SR5

I have new switches, just installed.
Power door locks operate, but no juice to the window switches.
I can't find the Power window module/relay under the dash, so maybe I am not looking for the right thing? Anyone have a picture?
Circuit breaker seems to be re-set - I can push in there with small screwdriver, and nothing "clicks", so I assume it in re-set. Checked all fuses three times, and they are all good.

No power at the PW motor, either.

I see one solution where a fused power wire was run directly to the blue wire with red strip at the PW switch. Does this just power up the switch, or will it provide juice to both PW motors and fix my problem?

Thanks for any insight in to this issue!

 

The power window relay is located on the passenger side kick panel. It's a little black box tucked way up out of sight. Grab the factory service manual and it will tell you how to check to see what is causing the problems.

 

First time posting on this forum for me. I just wanted to put a few photos up on this thread. There where a couple people asking where the location of the Door Control unit was. So I have a pic of where it is located on a 89 V6 4Runner and also a pic of the unit itself.

Location= Passenger side behind the kick panel and the ECU
[IMG][/IMG]

Unit= Small black box about the size of an iphone with one large rectangle plug
[IMG][/IMG]

 

Can someone confirm my conclusion on my 87 4runner 22re? I tested the circuities to the door control module according to the FSM and they were all good except the "courtesy switch" which I think is the light control. The light does not work. The window motors are good but the windows do not go up or down. I have no voltage at plugs to the door switches, and the switches are good. I think that I need a new door module. What do you think about getting a used one from my trusted Toyota truck wrecker? A new one costs about $250.00
Is this a thread hijack or am I posting correctly?

 

bump?

 

Pull the circuit board out and check the solder runs and the solder joints on the component legs. There is a good chance that there is an open solder run. I had this same symptom. take a strand of copper from a piece of mulitstranded copper wire and solder it across the open point. Just solder it to the leg of a component on that run to one on the other side of the open. Problem solved. That part is over $300 from toyotapartseast.com if they can even get it. It is obsolete.

 

I bought a used module from my Toyota truck Junk yard. He Installed it for me to make sure the problem was solved, and helped me fix my rear window switch while I was at it. Only charged me for parts...$80 for the module and $35 for the rear window switch. I think Toy Connection in San Jose deserves a plug.

 

i ditched my stupid door control relay board and made my own relay set up... i used two 5 pin relays and a 20amp fuse. now my power windows and doors work amazingly better!

 

Ok, so I am now part of the brotherhood of broken windows. Replaced switches, nothing. Checked motors by direct powering them, both work. Regulators work. No power is getting to the switches, so I believe it is a Door Control (85980-89101) issue, which brings me to your post, and a question...

What does an open solder run look like, and how do I go about checking to find one on the circuit board?

{Answer: The trace that is eroded (open solder run) may have very tiny little pin holes in it. It may look like it should still work, but look carefully. Even a tiny erosion in the solder can cause it to fail. Put a healthy dab of solder on there, and you will be good for another 30 years. See below for the location of my open trace.}

Also, what else can I possibly check...I mean, if I am not getting power to the switch through the plug, and the plugs run from the door control...then do I just need to trace all the wires?

For my 86 4Runner, the Door Control Module was found above the clutch pedal, and you slide it off the post it is mounted to, disconnect the plug, and then unclip the lid to get to the board.

Thanks ahead of time!

 

1. Go to an electronics store and buy a roll of silver bearing solder.
2. Remove black box from the window module you just removed from the truck
3. Test continuity on the high current side of the unit. The door control switch works by reversing the polarity of the window motors with a timed logic circuit that controls the power. (key off, 30 seconds to roll up windows until power is cut)
4. The trace that always breaks is a small oval trace that is expected to handle something like 30A-- it does not do this very well and almost always blows, leaving an open circuit.

If you remove the circuit board and post a pic of it, I can show you which trace I am talking about.

 

Duff,

Here you go man.


Top of the board


Thanks!
RB