'89 4Runner + server rack + old pickup cap =...
#81
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Originally Posted by Rather Diesel
Here is the 2nd fuel tank with the cage welded around it. I used 3/4" square tubing for the cage. The skid plate will be welded to this when I find some plate cheap. The skidplates will go up the sides as well. The tank is not welded to cage anywhere. It is sandwiched in the framing only.
You might want to put rubber insulators wherever there is contact with the cage; with it wedged in it could rub a hole when you start adding flex/body movement...
Looks great! You have tackled a huge project; I don't think I've seen anything like it here on Yotatech in sheer scale of the project!
#83
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Honestly, I don't think I've added 250 lbs to the truck. The fiberglass top with glass weighed the same as the new top I cut up. The stock tailgate and glass had to weigh 75lbs more than my new back doors. I also trashed a bunch of parts needed for the auto trans, parking brake, rear proportioning valve and brackets, etc.
And yes, the Mercedes engine will look the same as that 22re. Every part of the truck was stripped to bare metal, primed with Rust Bullet and painted. It looks like a new truck underneath.
Thanks for all the input!
Roy
And yes, the Mercedes engine will look the same as that 22re. Every part of the truck was stripped to bare metal, primed with Rust Bullet and painted. It looks like a new truck underneath.
Thanks for all the input!
Roy
Last edited by Rather Diesel; 08-09-2006 at 10:12 AM.
#85
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I gave up on the two back doors. They had an aluminum frame, and the steel skin was really thin. I made the doorway smaller and made a new door from steel. I also used a piano-hinge to help support my weight on the ladder.
I used the wider side for the two fuel cans. (Only one is shown) The fuel can mounts are not finished, just tacked in place. I haven't found a bargain on eBay for my rear window yet.
I used the wider side for the two fuel cans. (Only one is shown) The fuel can mounts are not finished, just tacked in place. I haven't found a bargain on eBay for my rear window yet.
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Here is a pic looking in the back door to the driver's side. I also ditched the hinged microwave support. I just wasn't happy with the end result. The microwave fits above the numbered plywood you see on the left. The fridge goes on the bottom. I can still sleep three if we share some of the foot room. This setup is incredibly strong now.
You can see some of the plywood used for seat-bases and seat-backs now too. The seat frames are 3/4" square steel tubing. These are then wrapped in 18 gauge sheet.
You can see some of the plywood used for seat-bases and seat-backs now too. The seat frames are 3/4" square steel tubing. These are then wrapped in 18 gauge sheet.
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You may notice that the folding seat-backs are gone as well. The folding method caused a tremendous loss in headroom when folded down. I'll show my alternative solution shortly.
Roy
Roy
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It's hard to believe it's taken this long to get this far. I thought I'd be farther by now. What sucks, is having to fab and re-fab over and over. Some of the stuff that works on paper doesn't work at all in the truck.
Some advice to anyone anticipating a build:
1-Start collecting steel NOW! I have spent way more on materials than I had budgeted. Get in the habit of watching trash set by the curb. You will find scrap in those piles. Also, let all your friends and family you need steel. It's surprising what some folks will give you.
2-Invest in a bandsaw. If you are using a cut off tool, you will go thru lots of disks on a big job. If I had it to do over, I would have bought a saw. Cut-off disks on a grinder make a hell of a mess as well. You will have metal particles all over the garage.
3-Tack everything in place, even if you are positive that's where the part will permanently be located. You will get new ideas as you assemble the components, and it sucks to cut out good welds. It's much easier to cut the tack welds. Only apply quality welds when you MUST cover welding access to add a part that you can't remove later to weld under.
Hope this helps gived you some ideas, and save you folks some grief as well.
Roy
Some advice to anyone anticipating a build:
1-Start collecting steel NOW! I have spent way more on materials than I had budgeted. Get in the habit of watching trash set by the curb. You will find scrap in those piles. Also, let all your friends and family you need steel. It's surprising what some folks will give you.
2-Invest in a bandsaw. If you are using a cut off tool, you will go thru lots of disks on a big job. If I had it to do over, I would have bought a saw. Cut-off disks on a grinder make a hell of a mess as well. You will have metal particles all over the garage.
3-Tack everything in place, even if you are positive that's where the part will permanently be located. You will get new ideas as you assemble the components, and it sucks to cut out good welds. It's much easier to cut the tack welds. Only apply quality welds when you MUST cover welding access to add a part that you can't remove later to weld under.
Hope this helps gived you some ideas, and save you folks some grief as well.
Roy
Last edited by Rather Diesel; 09-03-2006 at 08:13 AM.
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I'll be shifting the focus of the build starting Saturday. I'm picking up my Mercedes OM617 turbo-diesel/auto trans in the morning, and will start documenting that swap. I'd like to squeeze an intercooler somewhere if I can.
I'm still waivering on how to finish the back off, not sure if I want an exo-cage on the back and framework inside for shoulder-belt mounts, or have an internal rollcage. Having the engine will give me time to ponder the best path on the back.
Having two big projects on the truck at the same time actually helps some. When you get tied up for parts or ideas, you can move to the other project for a while.
I'll keep you all posted.
Roy
I'm still waivering on how to finish the back off, not sure if I want an exo-cage on the back and framework inside for shoulder-belt mounts, or have an internal rollcage. Having the engine will give me time to ponder the best path on the back.
Having two big projects on the truck at the same time actually helps some. When you get tied up for parts or ideas, you can move to the other project for a while.
I'll keep you all posted.
Roy
#97
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I would recommend going for an internal cage, to help preserve the looks on the outside of the truck, and it will help save weight compared to an external cage AND internal seatbelt framework. If you do it right you should be able to keep the cage from taking up too much room inside as well. Just make sure to wrap the tubes in foam to prevent injuries later...
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Roy