well, let us know what happens with lucas or whatever.

if you are going to spend $1000+ to look at, and possibly repair, valve stem seals, why not spend that money on a new head instead?

 

sometimes chrome rings just do not seat,have repaired 2 of these lately by using hastings steel rings and a light hone with normal ball hone.oil is turning black because combustion gases are getting by the unsealed rings.the hastings rings are very forgiving and will seat every time,lots of luck with your yota.

 

Thanks for the info stevenb. When I save up another $1000 I'll have the engine rebuilt again.

 

Did you verify proper operation of the PCV system...?



-Positive Crank Case Ventilation.

If the PCV system is not functioning properly oil consumption may result.

-Wet engine oil found in intake...?

 

Hummm....This has not been checked. It has not been mentioned before. In fact, I think that the tubing for it is secured with a zip tie.....It was like that when I got it!

What exactly do I need to do to troubleshoot the PCV System?

 

These are the Crank Case Ventilation hoses here in the diagram above. The rear hose which is for the PCV valve itself.

Verify the hoses are present and have no damage/leaks or restrictions.

Verify no restrictions in the intake manifold pipes where the hoses secure.

Verify proper operation of the PCV valve.
-Remove the valve and shake it... do you here the valve "jiggle" back and forward..?
-If so then the valve is OK.
-Check for debris or restrictions in the PCV valve.
-Cleaning it with a solvent will suffice.

Check Cyldiner Head Cover(Valve Cover).
-For damage to the baffle plates and crank case ventilation passages.
-Restrictions in crank case passages.
-Debris build-up.
-Cleaning with a solvent will suffice.

 

There is a crapton of buildup next to hose 12263 in the throttle body. It sometimes causes the throttle to stick open. I have to clean it out with B-12 chemtool at every oil change.

My clip 12263A was replaced by a zip tie by the previous owner.

When I get my truck back from my body painter friend next week, I will make sure to check this system. I hope that my truck guide has the proper ftlb for the Cylinder Head Cover in it somewhere.

Would this also be a good time to check my valve clearance while I'm in there? I'm running a little ruff at idle.

 

I checked the PCV valve. It is clear. I have not taken the valve cover off as I do not have a garage to work in. I am scared that leaves and whatnot are going to blow into the motor. Should I risk opening up the valve cover outside with leaves blowing around everywhere?

I upgraded my alternator to a CS130 from a 1989 Pontiac Safari. I purchased a mount from trailgear for $44. I replaced the wire with high grade multistrand 4AWG copper wire. There is a 140AMP fuse inline to the battery. There were multiple crappy splices in the old wiring. All damaged sections were cut, spliced, soldered, and received 1 or 2 layers of heat shrink tubing. Some sections had 12AWG when they should have had 8!

Old Alternator
Idle No Load 13.8v
Idle High Load 13.4v (High beams, emergency lights, fans, and wipers)

New Alternator
Idle No Load 14.2v
Idle High Load 14.2v (High beams, emergency lights, fans, and wipers)

The truck starts perfectly every time now. I highly recommend this upgrade.

 

Do I need to repack the front wheel bearings on this truck every 12k miles?