87 Sr5 22re Starting problem, idle problem.
#23
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It should be the same as at the intake, so compare a hose right off the intake to the one off the FPR. And you should notice a change in idle with the vacuum disconnected from the FPR, engine should load up and run rich. With a gauge, idle vacuum is typically around 20in.Hg.
#24
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That means the coil is intact and the relay is clicking on and off. But that does not mean the relay contacts are making good contact and sending enough current to the fuel pump. And it is that clicking that you may not hear when it is not starting, if so, look into the COR relay and circuit more.
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okay so the testing the AFR, the static tests are fine, and the dinamic tests seem wrong to me, it jumps all over the place. could this be my problem?
#28
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- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#AFMtesting
On test #2, you should see the resistance generally increase as the AFM plate is moved from closed to open, but it may not be in a smooth linear fashion. The resistor track in the AFM is laser trimmed for calibration at the factory and you may see sections where the resistance first increases, the drops down a little before increasing some more. What you want to watch for are places where the resistance drops below 20 or above 1000 ohms (for example if it goes to infinite/open circuit) as that would indicate a problem.
test #2 dinamic, closed is 400 and it goes up to about 1000 up down up down then down to 300 at fullly open?
Last edited by 4Crawler; 03-17-2012 at 02:51 PM.
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As noted:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#AFMtesting
And that only comes into play when you open up the throttle while driving. At idle, the AFM does not do a lot other than close the Fc contact to keep the fuel pump running.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#AFMtesting
And that only comes into play when you open up the throttle while driving. At idle, the AFM does not do a lot other than close the Fc contact to keep the fuel pump running.
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i pulled out what i thought was my co relay, and tested it and it is the problem if it is the right relay, it was to the left with the glovebox removed, it is has 5 connecters like the co, is black, and reads: relay toyota 90987-04002 ND 056700-6780 12V
is this the correct relay? or is it the impossible to acsess relay above the ecu? ill try and get that out and see how it goes.
is this the correct relay? or is it the impossible to acsess relay above the ecu? ill try and get that out and see how it goes.
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just figured that out and found the co relay, and it tested fine. im starting to think its my ignition switch or starter? maybe its a bad connection, but i checked the power wire to starter and it was fine. but starter seemed to be turning the motor over slower now then it did when i bought it.
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then again, i jumped it ( fp to B+ ) to send power to fuel pump and it fired up 3rd crank. ahhh i dont wanna end up relplacing everything to find out it was something simple.
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