Here is the short version:

- Won't start on it's own but recently did. Starts when jumped.
- I tried to read all of Rad4Runner's excellent stuff but I'm not sure where to start given the symptoms
- After jump start, while idling the volt-meter in the dash "bounces" and turning on headlights makes the engine work so hard it almost stalls. Even the flashers noticeably load the engine every time they flash.

Do I have alternator issues? Voltage regulator? Is this the classic starter issues that Rad4Runner has solved? Any help appreciated.


The long version:

I recently bought by dream 1987 SR5 4Runner on the West coast and had it hauled East. I test drove it, bought it, drove it 20 miles or so. It worked flawlessly except for the high beams which the seller was up-front about. Started on the first try every time.

It arrived at my door and the guy let me drive it off the hauler, I drove it around and everything was as I remembered. Started perfectly on a very cold morning. During the next few days I drove it 2-3 more short round the neighborhood trips and it was fine. I tried to take a friend for a spin and it wouldn't start. It was a warm day and we figured the 2011 dated battery must be at fault so we jumped it. Ran fine but as we approached my house the battery voltage meter on the dash started bouncing. I shut it off and it refused to start. The key buzzer works, and the clock comes on when the ignition is in the "accessory" position but nothing else works, no dome light, no cranking, no headlights. The flasher clicks super fast but the actual bulbs don't light. I jumped it again tonight and the same thing happened, ran but electrical system is acting funky. When I turn the headlights on the engine sounds like it's working way too hard and nearly stalls. I measured the voltage at the battery terminals and it was around 12.6V. Checked the voltage difference between the battery and a few other under-hood grounds and they checked out. All fuses are intact. Please help I trust this community more than any mechanic in my town

 

With the truck running, put your meter on the battery. You want 14ish volts. Sounds like your alternator is on its way out. I would recommend finding a shop that rebuilds them and have it rebuilt instead of buying a part store replacement.

If the high beams are not working, most likely it just needs the contacts cleaned in the combo switch. In my 88 runner build thread, I have the steps to fix the headlight switch listed on the first page.

As far as future repairs on the starter, I replace the plunger and contacts in the starter, clean the contacts in the Starter Relay and then do RADs starter wire bypass and have never had a failed cranking issue since.

 

Start with simple stuff, before you start replacing parts.
First thing you want to do with an old truck is inspect and clean connections both positive and grounds.
Erratic voltage could be caused by bad connections. Make sure battery connector is clean and tight. Grey metal is not clean or good electrical connection. Make sure all connections, positive and negative, have bare shiny metal contacting bare, shiny metal.
Then check voltages as Terry suggests. ^^^

The click-only issue is caused by a proven fault in the way Toyota wired the starter relay. No electrician or electrical engineer can dispute that.
So it is best to fix it ASAP, regardless of you symptoms. You can either do below in the comfort of your garage when you still have internet access to ask us questions, or do it in the middle of a trail somewhere

 

This. And you could also add the alt plug to the list of places to clean.

I was having this issue and it turned out to be a sludge soaked alt connector. Sprayed a little electrical cleaner on the contacts and no more voltage drop

 

Time for a big 3 upgrade .

Over the years the wire from the B terminal of the alternator gets burnt and brittle

Break out the Meter !!

Once system voltage drops to far the ecu will shut down.

Then there is no way of telling the factory alternator could be long gone.

Just where in Central Pa?? I would be glad to help.

 

This is what I had time to try this morning before work. Measured voltage across battery terminals:

- Key out of ignition: 11.0 V
- Key in ignition, door buzzer going: 8.0 V
- Accessory position: 6-7 V
- On / cranking position: 1-2 V

I can try a few more things on my lunch break.

 

A good friend of mine suggested that I at least get a new battery since the 11V was low and it was an older battery. Despite what the shop said about testing the old battery the new battery fixed the starting issue. I'll still take RAD's suggestions tonight and add that 30A fused wire from T4. Thanks everyone. Hope to have pics once I get this rig Pennsylvania safety inspected!

 

^^^ I just dealt with the same crazy problems and I had a bad battery that was only 30days old. Battery would hold a charge, but once you hit the ignition, it dropped very low, and just the clicking was heard. I could jump it and it worked fine. I noticed weeks before this became a real issue that my battery voltage was low while I was driving, then all of a sudden it would jump up to full charge(though this was my alternator). This all baffled me since I checked everything with a meter, and all was within spec.

My truck has the big 3 done...actually I think it is 4 now.
I have rewired the starter circuit when I did the manual to auto swap.
I rebuilt a starter but had no affect on the start condition.
Alternator is from an MR2(100amp at idle)
Truck runs a main battery (ECU & starter only) and auxiliary battery(stereo, eFan, lights, winch, OBA, OBHS...) with an isolator.

 

Now, that is a real good friend. 11Volts fully-charged at no load is definitely too low.

Most welcome, and good decision to fix the proven problem (explained here).
I cannot stress enough why we should fix this problem with the 22R-E's before its symptoms show up. Healthy batteries, solenoids that happen to operate more smoothly that others, good starter solenoid contacts, good connections, all work together to help mask the problem. That's why the issue is intermittent.

Absolutely, Jennygirl. Typical oil leaks on old engines get flung toward the alternator and could mess up contacts at connector an the brushes, as well.