87 4Runner hard starting ?
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87 4Runner hard starting ?
I've not much experience with 22RE motors as far as trouble shooting fuel injection problems. Replaced head gasket all is good no leaks , compression good. While doing so it seems some things as far as certain sensors on top of rocker cover and around intake manifold and vacuum tubes are missing or capped off . The motor has difficulty starting, unless you give it some gas while turning over. After it has finally started it will not idle and runs very rough until it is warmed up. The problems seem to be in the area of starting and idling.....above 1500-2000rpm runs great even under load.
I'm thinking it has something to do with EFI system/vacuum hook-ups ???
Any advice is greatly appreciated, Thanx
I'm thinking it has something to do with EFI system/vacuum hook-ups ???
Any advice is greatly appreciated, Thanx
Last edited by 85camo; 01-17-2017 at 06:34 AM.
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I've not much experience with 22RE motors as far as trouble shooting fuel injection problems. Replaced head gasket all is good no leaks , compression good. While doing so it seems some things as far as certain sensors on top of rocker cover and around intake manifold and vaccum tubes are missing or capped off . The motor has difficulty starting, unless you give it some gas while turning over. After it has finally started it will not idle and runs very rough until it is warmed up. The problems seem to be in the area of starting and idling.....above 1500-2000rpm runs great even under load.
I'm thinking it has something to do with EFI system/vaccum hook-ups ???
Any advice is greatly appreciated, Thanx
I'm thinking it has something to do with EFI system/vaccum hook-ups ???
Any advice is greatly appreciated, Thanx
Just shooting blind, the temp, cold idle, and cold start systems.
Also fyi, pressing the gas pedal during cranking only gives it more air. Throttle angle is ignored by the ECU during cranking and the injector pulse width is a "fixed" time based on coolant and intake air temperatures.
#3
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Well, you have an IACV valve that is supposed to let some extra air in while engine is cold to give you high idle. The pre 89 style is mechanical and prone to failure. There is a test, which I believe is to pinch the hose while engine is running cold and it should noticeably affect the idle. If there is no change, then yours could be broken or stuck. So that's one thing to check that should be easy.
And as Co_94_PU mentions there is a collection of sensors there, the temp sensor, the cold start timer, and cold start injector all worth checking as well.
And as Co_94_PU mentions there is a collection of sensors there, the temp sensor, the cold start timer, and cold start injector all worth checking as well.
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94 PU & CoryC85 , Thanx for feedback !
Truck ran when I bought it, but did not drive it due to blown head gasket. Did not know what other problems there might be.
Had head milled and valve job done
Replaced head gasket also using space saver "shim" gasket ....no leaks , compression good and even across all 4 cylinders
Replaced timing chain {steel guides} water pump, oil pump
Put it all back together...
Did major tune up, new oil, valve lash, filters , plugs and wires , cap & rotor, checked timing
Other than the starting and idling problems , the thing runs great !
Truck ran when I bought it, but did not drive it due to blown head gasket. Did not know what other problems there might be.
Had head milled and valve job done
Replaced head gasket also using space saver "shim" gasket ....no leaks , compression good and even across all 4 cylinders
Replaced timing chain {steel guides} water pump, oil pump
Put it all back together...
Did major tune up, new oil, valve lash, filters , plugs and wires , cap & rotor, checked timing
Other than the starting and idling problems , the thing runs great !
Last edited by 85camo; 01-14-2017 at 07:08 PM.
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As far as steps taken to correct problem I've gone to local bone yard to try to match up what all might be missing and check out vacuum connections , the trouble is finding a similar yota that is somewhat intact. I'm also looking into repair guide ....not much luck
Last edited by 85camo; 01-14-2017 at 07:10 PM.
#6
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Ok, well in that second pic, the green connector kindof hanging there in front of the IACV is suspect...that probably goes to your coolant temp sensor, but might be just for the gauge. I'd have to go look at mine to be sure. Other than that, I didn't see anything weird in your pics. Another thing to consider is your EGR could be stuck open, giving you some trouble when cold...speaking of which I need to clean mine probably. I assume your valves are adjusted and your timing is set and all that good stuff...is your warm idle properly set to 900 or whatever the recommendation is?
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Yes, valves , idle rpm and timing are set.
Yes there were/are a number of "things hanging" or routed wrong or missing ....or hacked !
What about the hose connection in 2nd pic that is capped off. I cant seem to find where that should come from or go to. maybe there was some kind of double connector that is missing ???
Yes there were/are a number of "things hanging" or routed wrong or missing ....or hacked !
What about the hose connection in 2nd pic that is capped off. I cant seem to find where that should come from or go to. maybe there was some kind of double connector that is missing ???
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#8
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Ok in thinking more about it, that green connector might be an electrical plug for the IACV, I seem to recall it might be sortof pre-heated when IGN is turned on...even more reason to suspect it now since it kindof looks unplugged to me.
As for that capped hose you are referring to, I believe that is the dashpot, which just slows down the closing of your throttle when you let off of it. I think what is normally there is a little piece of hose with just a filter on the end and it goes nowhere, it does not need vacuum or anything. Many people remove the dashpot because sometime it can get hung up and cause your idle to stick at a higher level than normal because it won't let the throttle level go all the way back. I don't think you want it capped like that, it should be open to vent to the atmosphere.
As for that capped hose you are referring to, I believe that is the dashpot, which just slows down the closing of your throttle when you let off of it. I think what is normally there is a little piece of hose with just a filter on the end and it goes nowhere, it does not need vacuum or anything. Many people remove the dashpot because sometime it can get hung up and cause your idle to stick at a higher level than normal because it won't let the throttle level go all the way back. I don't think you want it capped like that, it should be open to vent to the atmosphere.
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the vacuum line connector under throttle.
This model came with air conditioning ...I think that green connector might have been part of it
This model came with air conditioning ...I think that green connector might have been part of it
Last edited by 85camo; 01-14-2017 at 07:11 PM.
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OK, , yes the green connector is actually "connected" but the wires/wire is missing, broken off
Well , I thank you both again, I'm "oscar-mike" to the bone yard !!
Well , I thank you both again, I'm "oscar-mike" to the bone yard !!
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i think the green connector goes to either the start time switch or the ECU temp sensor (i cannot remember which).
edit: your pic shows the brown connector for the start time switch, so the green connector is probably the ECU temp sensor.
Last edited by wallytoo; 01-12-2017 at 10:41 AM.
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Well I found what the broken {green} connector goes to....under the coolant jack there is a brown connector coming out of a brass fitting on front side of manifold, next to it {on right } is a smaller brass fitting going into same area of manifold. I dug around inside the middle of fitting and found two wires. This must be where the connector broke off from wires. The connector is on such a short lead that it makes sense. included are two pics one from under side the other from over radiator
Thank you again , appreciate it Wallytoo
Thank you again , appreciate it Wallytoo
Last edited by 85camo; 01-14-2017 at 07:13 PM. Reason: thanks
#15
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Just to clarify what Wally is saying, the ECU temp sensor itself is broken, that green connector looks like it still has a piece of it lodged in there, so what you really need to do is go to the parts store and get another temp sensor, it doesn't look like you are missing any of the wiring, just the connector broke right off the sensor itself.
#16
Just to clarify what Wally is saying, the ECU temp sensor itself is broken, that green connector looks like it still has a piece of it lodged in there, so what you really need to do is go to the parts store and get another temp sensor, it doesn't look like you are missing any of the wiring, just the connector broke right off the sensor itself.
The temp sensors are often neglected but an hour devoted to cleaning them at least once every 30 years will make your life easier and eliminate doubts on temp-related issues.
See My Write-up On Thoroughly Cleaning Temp Sensors
I had no trouble starting over several days in refrigerator temps of Route 66 / I-40.
#18
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There's no IAC on 22RE engines. This particular model uses an external Auxiliary Air Valve to increase cold RPM's. Speaking of that, I see 2 problems:
Problem #1 There's one screw missing on the AA valve itself. This is a 2 piece design with a gasket affixed and sealed using 4 screws. Any vacuum leaks here will affect engine performance,cold or hot.
Problem 2# There's a large crack in the rear vacuum hose of the AA valve. This, too, will greatly affect engine performance, both cold and hot.
Problem #1 There's one screw missing on the AA valve itself. This is a 2 piece design with a gasket affixed and sealed using 4 screws. Any vacuum leaks here will affect engine performance,cold or hot.
Problem 2# There's a large crack in the rear vacuum hose of the AA valve. This, too, will greatly affect engine performance, both cold and hot.
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Iacv aav AV, all really the same beast no matter what we call it guys the rest is symantics no?
OK in the across the engine picture from the exhaust side, the blue lug hanging unconnected is the temp sensor for the gauge you'll find the sensor located a few inches below about the middle of the engine.
Same image just to the left is an exposed wire, runs to the sensor on top of the thermostat housing.
same image far right, is the heater valve cable it goes to the valve right above it there should be a metal arm sticking down off the valve.
Same image, center of the picture is a switched valve, this appears to be hooked to the R port of the throttle body and the large valve on the plenum? That's not right, but I got lazy and am not going outside to see where it's supposed to go.
next photo. Underside of the lower intake manifold
You are not missing a screw in the AV (air valve) that is one of the mounting holes showing, you'll find two corresponding holes to mount it to the lower intake manifold. There is one showing just to the right of it.
As noted there is a crack in the hose on the back side of the AV, if you have a leak here it is after the throttle plate and is a major issue. If nothing else trim off the crack and hardened bits and reattach it.
The temp sensor has been mentioned, Rad has great photos of this if your not sure which is which.
OK in the across the engine picture from the exhaust side, the blue lug hanging unconnected is the temp sensor for the gauge you'll find the sensor located a few inches below about the middle of the engine.
Same image just to the left is an exposed wire, runs to the sensor on top of the thermostat housing.
same image far right, is the heater valve cable it goes to the valve right above it there should be a metal arm sticking down off the valve.
Same image, center of the picture is a switched valve, this appears to be hooked to the R port of the throttle body and the large valve on the plenum? That's not right, but I got lazy and am not going outside to see where it's supposed to go.
next photo. Underside of the lower intake manifold
You are not missing a screw in the AV (air valve) that is one of the mounting holes showing, you'll find two corresponding holes to mount it to the lower intake manifold. There is one showing just to the right of it.
As noted there is a crack in the hose on the back side of the AV, if you have a leak here it is after the throttle plate and is a major issue. If nothing else trim off the crack and hardened bits and reattach it.
The temp sensor has been mentioned, Rad has great photos of this if your not sure which is which.
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Ok, got a number of things replaced and re-attached. Everything is looking pretty good and actually running great !
The problem with the start is still an issue, it begins to kick in but never makes it unless you use the gas- pedal.....
BUT it is MUCH better than before !
Thanx
The problem with the start is still an issue, it begins to kick in but never makes it unless you use the gas- pedal.....
BUT it is MUCH better than before !
Thanx