87 4Runner Coastal 22RE Build
#21
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Thread Starter
no idea. both of my '87 22re 4runners have a single vacuum line from the booster, a fairly large hose that runs to a port on the upper plenum. in your pic from early in the thread, i only see your large vacuum hose leading from the booster, not a small hose. where is the small hose?
missing vacuum port for this hose
#22
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that's for cruise control. vacuum runs to a three-prong port next to where the brake hose attaches to the plenum. usually, one of the prongs is capped.
edit: and it shows in your early picture of the engine. the three-prong port, and the entire vacuum line to the cruise diaphragm.
edit: and it shows in your early picture of the engine. the three-prong port, and the entire vacuum line to the cruise diaphragm.
Last edited by wallytoo; 04-13-2020 at 08:57 AM.
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old87yota (04-13-2020)
#23
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that's for cruise control. vacuum runs to a three-prong port next to where the brake hose attaches to the plenum. usually, one of the prongs is capped.
edit: and it shows in your early picture of the engine. the three-prong port, and the entire vacuum line to the cruise diaphragm.
edit: and it shows in your early picture of the engine. the three-prong port, and the entire vacuum line to the cruise diaphragm.
22re vacuum hoses help! - YotaTech Forums
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=...AAAAAdAAAAABAE
Last edited by coastal; 04-13-2020 at 09:45 AM.
#24
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If you have A/C, PS, 4wd, AND Cruise, you run out of "prongs" on the gas filter. So one of them will have a Tee.
As wallytoo says, your cruise actuator (which looks a little, uh, crusty) just runs on plain ole' engine vacuum, whether direct to the gas filter or through a Tee.
As wallytoo says, your cruise actuator (which looks a little, uh, crusty) just runs on plain ole' engine vacuum, whether direct to the gas filter or through a Tee.
#25
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Thread Starter
If you have A/C, PS, 4wd, AND Cruise, you run out of "prongs" on the gas filter. So one of them will have a Tee.
As wallytoo says, your cruise actuator (which looks a little, uh, crusty) just runs on plain ole' engine vacuum, whether direct to the gas filter or through a Tee.
As wallytoo says, your cruise actuator (which looks a little, uh, crusty) just runs on plain ole' engine vacuum, whether direct to the gas filter or through a Tee.
#26
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the sticker under the hood of '87 4runner #1
Last edited by wallytoo; 11-23-2020 at 03:36 PM.
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old87yota (04-13-2020)
#27
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Gas Filter tee?
Is this the tee you’re talking about? Right now I have both to the back vacuum leads, based on what I thought I was interpreting from another 22re vacuum diagram.
#28
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that's the one. should have the cruise vac and the 4wd pressure up vsv lines.
the diagram above is directly from the hood on my #1 '87 4runner, so you might be able to use it to sort some of your lines.
edit: i suppose that could be called a tee as scope103 references, as it has three ports. i was thinking more about a literal “t” configuration similar to the “y” used on the windshield washer lines.
the diagram above is directly from the hood on my #1 '87 4runner, so you might be able to use it to sort some of your lines.
edit: i suppose that could be called a tee as scope103 references, as it has three ports. i was thinking more about a literal “t” configuration similar to the “y” used on the windshield washer lines.
Last edited by wallytoo; 04-13-2020 at 04:29 PM.
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old87yota (04-14-2020)
#29
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that's the one. should have the cruise vac and the 4wd pressure up vsv lines.
the diagram above is directly from the hood on my #1 '87 4runner, so you might be able to use it to sort some of your lines.
edit: i suppose that could be called a tee as scope103 references, as it has three ports. i was thinking more about a literal “t” configuration similar to the “y” used on the windshield washer lines.
the diagram above is directly from the hood on my #1 '87 4runner, so you might be able to use it to sort some of your lines.
edit: i suppose that could be called a tee as scope103 references, as it has three ports. i was thinking more about a literal “t” configuration similar to the “y” used on the windshield washer lines.
vacuum tee
Scope, I'm with Wallytoo. Are you referring to adding a "T", or calling the prongs on the filter the "T". This seems like an easy workaround for me. Since I'm missing the VSV for my A/C, I believe that is why I'm short a vacuum plug and this would solve it. I'm still trying to discern which VSV does what (on trucks that still have both), and haven't gotten much from searching for "4wd vsv pressure up". It can really be challenging to find what the stock configs are supposed to be, as there seems to be many differences between years, hodgepodge builds, and people who just intrinsically hate vacuum lines like they ran away with their wife.
#30
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Well, that's why we have the under-hood stickers. The vacuum line configurations do change (at least a little) year to year and build-out. I have a 3VZE, so I'm even less helpful to you.
On my truck, the gas filter (3 ports) drives the PAIR, the FPR (fuel pressure-up) and AC idle-up, and ADD and Cruise. (I misspoke about the P/S idle up; that's separate.) For the FPR and AC to share a port, and ADD and Cruise, there are two "Tees." (not "Whys").
All three ports on the gas filter are the same; plain ole' engine vacuum (contrasted with the P, E, and R ports on the throttle body, which are modulated vacuum). If you don't have enough connections, just cover the extra prong with a cap (or you'll have a vacuum leak). If you don't have enough ports, add a Tee. In your case, I would probably test your Cruise actuator before I put a lot of effort into trying to supply it with vacuum.
Just to make it a little more interesting, my under-hood sticker doesn't show the Cruise or ADD (it only shows two connections to the gas filter). Perhaps because Cruise and ADD aren't "engine" functions.
On my truck, the gas filter (3 ports) drives the PAIR, the FPR (fuel pressure-up) and AC idle-up, and ADD and Cruise. (I misspoke about the P/S idle up; that's separate.) For the FPR and AC to share a port, and ADD and Cruise, there are two "Tees." (not "Whys").
All three ports on the gas filter are the same; plain ole' engine vacuum (contrasted with the P, E, and R ports on the throttle body, which are modulated vacuum). If you don't have enough connections, just cover the extra prong with a cap (or you'll have a vacuum leak). If you don't have enough ports, add a Tee. In your case, I would probably test your Cruise actuator before I put a lot of effort into trying to supply it with vacuum.
Just to make it a little more interesting, my under-hood sticker doesn't show the Cruise or ADD (it only shows two connections to the gas filter). Perhaps because Cruise and ADD aren't "engine" functions.
#31
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Thread Starter
Well, that's why we have the under-hood stickers. The vacuum line configurations do change (at least a little) year to year and build-out. I have a 3VZE, so I'm even less helpful to you.
On my truck, the gas filter (3 ports) drives the PAIR, the FPR (fuel pressure-up) and AC idle-up, and ADD and Cruise. (I misspoke about the P/S idle up; that's separate.) For the FPR and AC to share a port, and ADD and Cruise, there are two "Tees." (not "Whys").
All three ports on the gas filter are the same; plain ole' engine vacuum (contrasted with the P, E, and R ports on the throttle body, which are modulated vacuum). If you don't have enough connections, just cover the extra prong with a cap (or you'll have a vacuum leak). If you don't have enough ports, add a Tee. In your case, I would probably test your Cruise actuator before I put a lot of effort into trying to supply it with vacuum.
Just to make it a little more interesting, my under-hood sticker doesn't show the Cruise or ADD (it only shows two connections to the gas filter). Perhaps because Cruise and ADD aren't "engine" functions.
On my truck, the gas filter (3 ports) drives the PAIR, the FPR (fuel pressure-up) and AC idle-up, and ADD and Cruise. (I misspoke about the P/S idle up; that's separate.) For the FPR and AC to share a port, and ADD and Cruise, there are two "Tees." (not "Whys").
All three ports on the gas filter are the same; plain ole' engine vacuum (contrasted with the P, E, and R ports on the throttle body, which are modulated vacuum). If you don't have enough connections, just cover the extra prong with a cap (or you'll have a vacuum leak). If you don't have enough ports, add a Tee. In your case, I would probably test your Cruise actuator before I put a lot of effort into trying to supply it with vacuum.
Just to make it a little more interesting, my under-hood sticker doesn't show the Cruise or ADD (it only shows two connections to the gas filter). Perhaps because Cruise and ADD aren't "engine" functions.
I just replaced the power steering hose over lunch. I've read up a few comments on how to fill/bleed the reservoir. Turning the wheel just sitting in off position started to feed it through, so I think I'll lift it off tires and try to work it through before I turn it on...also to make sure I don't have any other leaks before it's turned on.
#32
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so i checked the vacuum line routing on ‘87 4runner #2. the three-prong gas filter only has two ports used (one is capped); one for the cruise actuator, and one for the FPU vsv. #2 is equipped with cruise, air, PS, and 4wd.
i also looked at the vacuum routing on my '88 with the 3vze. that does have a line with a "T" off of the gas filter on the plenum. the vsv/switches/actuators for the 3vze are located on the passenger inner fender, unlike the 22re, where most are mounted on either the plenum or valve cover.
i also looked at the vacuum routing on my '88 with the 3vze. that does have a line with a "T" off of the gas filter on the plenum. the vsv/switches/actuators for the 3vze are located on the passenger inner fender, unlike the 22re, where most are mounted on either the plenum or valve cover.
Last edited by wallytoo; 04-19-2020 at 03:40 PM.
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coastal (04-20-2020)
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coastal (04-20-2020)
#35
That's tough stuff, pulling the engine out in the street! Cool build.
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coastal (04-20-2020)
#36
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Thread Starter
#37
Oh wow I think you exceeded the weight limit on that stroller! Lol. Good idea on the plywood floor for the engine hoist. You gotta do what you gotta do. I like it.
#38
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Thread Starter
Coolant gauge
My coolant gauge was shooting to normal temp mode as soon as I turned the key. Even with the sensor unplugged. So I did the trick in this thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...48/index2.html
I took the cluster out, all of my screws were tight but I loosened them, sprayed contact cleaner, tightened things back up and reinstalled. It still shoots up now and then but much more stable. I plan on adding an in-line second thermostat in upper radiator hose soon.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...48/index2.html
I took the cluster out, all of my screws were tight but I loosened them, sprayed contact cleaner, tightened things back up and reinstalled. It still shoots up now and then but much more stable. I plan on adding an in-line second thermostat in upper radiator hose soon.
#39
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Thread Starter
Update
Well the fix for the dash temp gauge is not working more than it is. I plan on putting in a aftermarket soon. Meantime I ordered the heavy duty shifter bushings for the W56. The old seat was broken and shot! It shifts wayyyy more precise, if not too stiff. I might put the old softer bushing in as it was still well intact. But huge improvement. It was really hard to know I was shifting into 1st vs 3rd before.
Old boot
Was pretty dirty in there
I didn’t have to do any of the snap ring or twisting of the shifter on mine. Just removed the boots and 4 screws (use 10mm socket so you don’t strip) and pulled the shifter out.
Old boot
Was pretty dirty in there
I didn’t have to do any of the snap ring or twisting of the shifter on mine. Just removed the boots and 4 screws (use 10mm socket so you don’t strip) and pulled the shifter out.
#40
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Thread Starter
Everything is running pretty well. I had a rich condition a while back and changed out the seals on my injectors, which seemed to help. I changed out the sway bar links and got the bar painted. Changed out the inner/outer tie rods and pitman arm and took my freeplay in the steering wheel from 5" to spec! I painted the top with some marine epoxy, just roll and brush, not even roll and tip. Looks pretty good for a first coat! I painted the grill and still need another few coats after it cures, and the corner pieces. Finally hit 500 miles!
painted grill
painted the shell
painted grill
painted the shell
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