87 4Runner 22RE troubleshooting help needed
06-15-2010, 10:17 PM
#162
HAHAHA, ...THANKS Kiroshu! lol. I've tried to keep it straight, ...but stuff happens. Still, no major damage and never been wrecked, EVER, lol. Need a new rear bumper and caps, get rid of the sag, new shocks in the front AT LEAST, lol...but yeah, she's pretty clean.
Ok, why not, I'll 'tappity tap tap, tap taparoo, ....just tap it in there!" lol. Seriously, I will, why not. I have a couple tests to do if I have time tomorrow to run out there, and definitely Thursday if not. What I don't understand though...if it's idling UP....that doesn't make much sense to me unless the IACV valve is WORKING IN REVERSE! lol. I thought it held open while cold(thus, when you pinch it off when cold it idles down dramatically), then closes slowly as warmed up(thus idle should drop slowly as it closes)....SO WTH? lol. Flecker mentioned something interesting about the idle dropping and then surging due to pressing on the brake when it's idling above 1000....but like I said, I keep having to adjust it down as I drive.
I'm sure it'll get figured out, I just don't wanna chase my tail, and if I can't verify the IACV is good or bad, ..then I can't really lean toward either one, lol. I guess I'm just confused by the starting out really low and then steadily increasing until I have the screw way in and it's still wanting to stick up at 900 or so. Hmmmmmmmm, lol!
Oh well, I've learned to LOVE A GOOD MYSTERY by now! BUT I'M READY TO JUST ROLL, ALREADY! HAHAHA.
Ok, why not, I'll 'tappity tap tap, tap taparoo, ....just tap it in there!" lol. Seriously, I will, why not. I have a couple tests to do if I have time tomorrow to run out there, and definitely Thursday if not. What I don't understand though...if it's idling UP....that doesn't make much sense to me unless the IACV valve is WORKING IN REVERSE! lol. I thought it held open while cold(thus, when you pinch it off when cold it idles down dramatically), then closes slowly as warmed up(thus idle should drop slowly as it closes)....SO WTH? lol. Flecker mentioned something interesting about the idle dropping and then surging due to pressing on the brake when it's idling above 1000....but like I said, I keep having to adjust it down as I drive.
I'm sure it'll get figured out, I just don't wanna chase my tail, and if I can't verify the IACV is good or bad, ..then I can't really lean toward either one, lol. I guess I'm just confused by the starting out really low and then steadily increasing until I have the screw way in and it's still wanting to stick up at 900 or so. Hmmmmmmmm, lol!
Oh well, I've learned to LOVE A GOOD MYSTERY by now! BUT I'M READY TO JUST ROLL, ALREADY! HAHAHA.
06-16-2010, 10:19 AM
#164
Thanks Rob,
I need to get out there and TAP on my IACV, lol....Who knows, maybe it will free up and reveal itself, ....if, in fact, it's a problem in the first place. I read up on that a lil more... and going to test the booster-via the book....but the book is VAGUE, lol.... Have a couple checks to make, on other things, as well. One thing I was noticing, yesterday, was that, when the booster WAS hooked up, the breaks worked great, but the pedal SEEMED to slowly creep toward the floor at a light, when pressing solid on it for a few seconds(Gonna have to double check that asap). To be honest, I never paid attention to the booster before this idle thing,...always kept them fresh with good pads, calipers and even recently changed the rotors and rears. System holds fluid well, so I think I'm ok still on the master. I did a booster on my 86 lifted Toy-Shorty, ...I don't remember it being fun or cheap, hahaha. I'll shop around if it's needed.
BTW Flecker;
My Cap and Rotor are in at Toyota, and my buddy there said "I've got a brand new Dipstick from my 87 Runner, ..I'll bring it in you can have it for 10$, sound good?" So check that 'leak' off the list, as well! lol. Also, waiting for you to weigh in on anything I said up there^^^? Even if it's "Don't know what to tell ya", lol, that'd be cool. Sorry you're so slammed at work, Bud, ...hope you have a great time this Sunday, too......OH yeah, ...see you Friday. Also, if you need me to bring that to you, that is just fine. I don't mean to have you driving here if you don't have time, ...just let me know, k?
I need to get out there and TAP on my IACV, lol....Who knows, maybe it will free up and reveal itself, ....if, in fact, it's a problem in the first place. I read up on that a lil more... and going to test the booster-via the book....but the book is VAGUE, lol.... Have a couple checks to make, on other things, as well. One thing I was noticing, yesterday, was that, when the booster WAS hooked up, the breaks worked great, but the pedal SEEMED to slowly creep toward the floor at a light, when pressing solid on it for a few seconds(Gonna have to double check that asap). To be honest, I never paid attention to the booster before this idle thing,...always kept them fresh with good pads, calipers and even recently changed the rotors and rears. System holds fluid well, so I think I'm ok still on the master. I did a booster on my 86 lifted Toy-Shorty, ...I don't remember it being fun or cheap, hahaha. I'll shop around if it's needed.
BTW Flecker;
My Cap and Rotor are in at Toyota, and my buddy there said "I've got a brand new Dipstick from my 87 Runner, ..I'll bring it in you can have it for 10$, sound good?" So check that 'leak' off the list, as well! lol. Also, waiting for you to weigh in on anything I said up there^^^? Even if it's "Don't know what to tell ya", lol, that'd be cool. Sorry you're so slammed at work, Bud, ...hope you have a great time this Sunday, too......OH yeah, ...see you Friday. Also, if you need me to bring that to you, that is just fine. I don't mean to have you driving here if you don't have time, ...just let me know, k?
06-16-2010, 10:25 AM
#165
Chef love that 4runner! nice and clean. I just picked up my second toyota. Little 1991 2wd. Traded my crappy cherokee for it straight up! I have a thread on here for it so check it out. I think if you search traded my heep for a 1991 2wd you'll find it. Wish i could help but i have yet to deal with the iacv. Only taken one apart. There's one in my garage so if you need it hit me up. It's off of a 92 22re so i don't know if it'll swap.
06-16-2010, 10:32 AM
#166
Thanks alot for the offer, Mighty, ...I'll keep it in mind if it winds up being bad. My buddy at the Dealership-Parts section can tell me if they're the same number. I doubt it, as 89 and up seemed to have higher resistance EVERYTHING, lol. But who knows, right? lol.
Cool, you gonna make it a project, the 2wd? ...Or just keep her stock? I'll check for the thread. Love the tag, "Traded HEEP for Toy"
hahaha.
Cool, you gonna make it a project, the 2wd? ...Or just keep her stock? I'll check for the thread. Love the tag, "Traded HEEP for Toy"
hahaha.
06-16-2010, 11:02 AM
#167
Registered User
I've gotta get busy with some things, but I'll get caught up tonight and add some input......even though it looks like you're getting plenty....
06-16-2010, 11:12 AM
#168
Hey Thook,
THANKS A LOT! Yeah, I'm not complaining about the help, trust me! lol....Just that, well, as many eyes on these things as possible seems to always come up with an out of nowhere nugget of "YEP, try this", ..and voila! HAHAHA.
I still have to get out there when lunch is done here, then I can check a couple things Flecker has mentioned. Just want the last few ticks resolved, ya know? Also important to mention, I think my timing is a bit advanced(I'll check it as to where exactly) but still no pinging...and it seems to run way too chunky when retarded to 5-10* or so......Part of what I have to check is the resistance in the Coil...So I'll do that and check back in asap.
Thanks guys, looking forward to getting up to the WOODS and getting some nice trail pics!
Mark
THANKS A LOT! Yeah, I'm not complaining about the help, trust me! lol....Just that, well, as many eyes on these things as possible seems to always come up with an out of nowhere nugget of "YEP, try this", ..and voila! HAHAHA.
I still have to get out there when lunch is done here, then I can check a couple things Flecker has mentioned. Just want the last few ticks resolved, ya know? Also important to mention, I think my timing is a bit advanced(I'll check it as to where exactly) but still no pinging...and it seems to run way too chunky when retarded to 5-10* or so......Part of what I have to check is the resistance in the Coil...So I'll do that and check back in asap.
Thanks guys, looking forward to getting up to the WOODS and getting some nice trail pics!
Mark
06-16-2010, 12:23 PM
#169
I've decided to repost my symptoms/things I've done recently, to help those, who might have something to add, from having to track back....:
1.) When cold, it idles fairly low(500rpm or lower, seeming to miss a lil bit). When I first start it cold, if I screw the idle screw back out(see foot note), it will idle up a lil bit and hold steady around 750....---*Important foot note is; By the time the idle crawls up and wants to keep going above 1000(after warm and having driven around a lil), I've had to screw the idle screw back in. Thus, it starts rough with the low idle.
2.) As it is idling during warm up, if I tap on the pedal and idle it up much at all, the engine light comes on(have to check again, but fairly sure it's the 02 code still).
3.) If I continue to feather the throttle, even a lil, and leave the idle adjustment screw alone, it will eventually come up to 600-650, but seems to need a lil screwing out of the idle adjustment screw on the TB.(I'm going to start it cold in a few and see if it crawls up on it's own as it reaches full oper. temp.....we'll see)
4.) Reason I add that, above, about leaving it alone is this; As it warms up, it seems to crawl up in idle to 1000 or so, so I keep having to pop the hood and screw in the idle screw.(However; This is hard to tell without trying it in different ways, like leaving it alone and just watching to see if it adjusts up to only 750 with the screw way in on the TB).
5.) I would think that, even being an 87, it should be properly idling up when cold, to around 850-1000rpm....NO? Thus, upon warm up, it should crawl down to 750 or so and hold. The way it is now, it seems to be TOTALLY opposite as normal function would provide. It does not idle up when cold, at all.
6.) When the truck warms up and is having that high idle issue, and I press on the brake pedal at a stop light, the idle drops up and down in time, every second or so. Thing is, it does it with the booster port plugged and also with it hooked up properly.
7.) I'm going to do a resistance check on the Dizzy when I go out there, before checking running issues(leaving it alone and seeing what it does without touching ANYTHING)...plus I have to do the brake booster test per the book.
I'll update more with further symptoms, later, in addition to my test results on the booster and dizzy. Not sure I can further test/rule out the IACV as i've cleaned it as best as possible(bout a half can of TB cleaner and then flushed that stuff out fairly well with compressed air....lil pools of it had formed).
Would love a CLEAR answer to this last question;
*** WHY IS MY TRUCK NOT IDLING UP WHEN COLD?....Does the IACV partly control that?*** I'll leave it at that until I see some answers.
1.) When cold, it idles fairly low(500rpm or lower, seeming to miss a lil bit). When I first start it cold, if I screw the idle screw back out(see foot note), it will idle up a lil bit and hold steady around 750....---*Important foot note is; By the time the idle crawls up and wants to keep going above 1000(after warm and having driven around a lil), I've had to screw the idle screw back in. Thus, it starts rough with the low idle.
2.) As it is idling during warm up, if I tap on the pedal and idle it up much at all, the engine light comes on(have to check again, but fairly sure it's the 02 code still).
3.) If I continue to feather the throttle, even a lil, and leave the idle adjustment screw alone, it will eventually come up to 600-650, but seems to need a lil screwing out of the idle adjustment screw on the TB.(I'm going to start it cold in a few and see if it crawls up on it's own as it reaches full oper. temp.....we'll see)
4.) Reason I add that, above, about leaving it alone is this; As it warms up, it seems to crawl up in idle to 1000 or so, so I keep having to pop the hood and screw in the idle screw.(However; This is hard to tell without trying it in different ways, like leaving it alone and just watching to see if it adjusts up to only 750 with the screw way in on the TB).
5.) I would think that, even being an 87, it should be properly idling up when cold, to around 850-1000rpm....NO? Thus, upon warm up, it should crawl down to 750 or so and hold. The way it is now, it seems to be TOTALLY opposite as normal function would provide. It does not idle up when cold, at all.
6.) When the truck warms up and is having that high idle issue, and I press on the brake pedal at a stop light, the idle drops up and down in time, every second or so. Thing is, it does it with the booster port plugged and also with it hooked up properly.
7.) I'm going to do a resistance check on the Dizzy when I go out there, before checking running issues(leaving it alone and seeing what it does without touching ANYTHING)...plus I have to do the brake booster test per the book.
I'll update more with further symptoms, later, in addition to my test results on the booster and dizzy. Not sure I can further test/rule out the IACV as i've cleaned it as best as possible(bout a half can of TB cleaner and then flushed that stuff out fairly well with compressed air....lil pools of it had formed).
Would love a CLEAR answer to this last question;
*** WHY IS MY TRUCK NOT IDLING UP WHEN COLD?....Does the IACV partly control that?*** I'll leave it at that until I see some answers.
06-16-2010, 01:19 PM
#170
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These symptoms could also be caused by an inoperative auxilary air valve; it's part of the throttle body, located underneath it, and should have two coolant hoses connected to it. It's purpose is to raise the idle when the coolant is cold and lower the idle to stock as the coolant heats. If it's not functioning properly, it can effect cold and warm engine performance.
I know you cleaned it, have you checked the actual temp sensor switch on the intake? That's where it gets a signal from.
The O2 could very well be causing it to, making it run in a lean condition even when cold... it kicks in cold or hot.
I know you cleaned it, have you checked the actual temp sensor switch on the intake? That's where it gets a signal from.
The O2 could very well be causing it to, making it run in a lean condition even when cold... it kicks in cold or hot.
06-16-2010, 02:21 PM
#171
THANKS, FLECKER, .....
Ok, guys;
1.) Tested resistance at Dizzy Pick up connector(specs 140-180ohm)- Mine; 158ohm steady
2.) Did books vague Booster tests for inoperation;
.......1a. Depress pedal, w/engine off several times, it should stiffen up and and then hold depression down and make sure there is no change in pedal reserve distance( Fail, seems to slowly fall toward the floor)
.......1b. Depress pedal and start engine. If pedal goes down slightly, operation is normal(Will have to check that again, but seemed to drop slightly, ...then slowly drop further toward the floor)
2.) Air Tightness Check;
.......2a. Start engine and run for 2 minutes, turn off engine. Depress the brake pedal several times slowly. If the pedal goes down farther the first time but gradually rises after the 2nd and 3rd time, the booster is air tight.(Uhhhh, my pedal DOES, indeed rise after 2nd and 3rd pump)
.......2b. Depress the Brake Pedal while the engine is running, then stop the engine with the pedal depressed. If there is no change in the pedal reserve travel after holding the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is air tight.( uhhhh, if I'm reading this right, the pedal, once pressed during this test, should NOT travel downward toward the floor. Mine does, after only a couple seconds, begin to travel downward to the floor. Am I reading this correctly that it should NOT DO THAT? Meaning, shouldn't it stay STIFF and not travel to the floor?) Even then, if I pump it again, it will build up pressure rather quickly, but doesn't hold it apparently.
ALSO IMPORTANT TO NOTE;
When warming up the truck(I'll add that next section) fully warm, with the idle up around 800-900 rpm, .....If I depress the brake, over and over, firmly, the idle will drop, continuously until I let up off the brake pedal and feather the gas a lil, bringing it back up to 800-900 or so.
********************************************
I TRIED tapping on the IACV, but no change during warming up from cold
* Could the TPS be causing some of this idle stuff? I think Flecker and I got that TO SPEC, but I just thought I'd throw it out there. I'll test it again for the heck of it.
PS> Booster will be in by 4:30 at Kragen, unlimited lifetime warranty. 132$
*********************************************
Warm up/Idle/Missing issues;
OK, this time, I left the idle screw alone, and sure enough, it eventually idled up to around 750 when fully warm and held. HOWEVER; When I drove it around the block, when reaching the first stop sign(flecker can attest that it's maybe 1/6th of a mile, only) I came to a stop and sat there, .....The idle had gone to around 950 rpm and didn't want to move down. I got out and pressed back on the linkage, but no change, really. Maybe 50rpm(since I've adjusted the dashpot, i believe). SO, I have to conclude at least that something other than the dashpot is causing the idle to creep up.
I will replace the Booster, tomorrow, and hopefully have a more clear and QUICK path to solution of my issue, as I'll have ruled SOMETHING OUT! lol.
If someone can tell me "NO, that doesn't mean your booster is bad", then I'll listen, but I want a GOOD explanation. As far as I can see, from what I've stated above.....it's going bad. The ONLY thing I can think of, other than the test I did, is that it's got a vacuum leak in the hose......but I don't think that's it, as, well, when I remove the line to the port on the intake, plugging it SECURELY(ask Flecker, that plug is VERY tight), it still seems to loose pedal travel, slowly going toward the floor.
ANY QUICK THOUGHTS PLEASE? LOL.
Thanks guys,
Mark
Ok, guys;
1.) Tested resistance at Dizzy Pick up connector(specs 140-180ohm)- Mine; 158ohm steady
2.) Did books vague Booster tests for inoperation;
.......1a. Depress pedal, w/engine off several times, it should stiffen up and and then hold depression down and make sure there is no change in pedal reserve distance( Fail, seems to slowly fall toward the floor)
.......1b. Depress pedal and start engine. If pedal goes down slightly, operation is normal(Will have to check that again, but seemed to drop slightly, ...then slowly drop further toward the floor)
2.) Air Tightness Check;
.......2a. Start engine and run for 2 minutes, turn off engine. Depress the brake pedal several times slowly. If the pedal goes down farther the first time but gradually rises after the 2nd and 3rd time, the booster is air tight.(Uhhhh, my pedal DOES, indeed rise after 2nd and 3rd pump)
.......2b. Depress the Brake Pedal while the engine is running, then stop the engine with the pedal depressed. If there is no change in the pedal reserve travel after holding the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is air tight.( uhhhh, if I'm reading this right, the pedal, once pressed during this test, should NOT travel downward toward the floor. Mine does, after only a couple seconds, begin to travel downward to the floor. Am I reading this correctly that it should NOT DO THAT? Meaning, shouldn't it stay STIFF and not travel to the floor?) Even then, if I pump it again, it will build up pressure rather quickly, but doesn't hold it apparently.
ALSO IMPORTANT TO NOTE;
When warming up the truck(I'll add that next section) fully warm, with the idle up around 800-900 rpm, .....If I depress the brake, over and over, firmly, the idle will drop, continuously until I let up off the brake pedal and feather the gas a lil, bringing it back up to 800-900 or so.
********************************************
I TRIED tapping on the IACV, but no change during warming up from cold
* Could the TPS be causing some of this idle stuff? I think Flecker and I got that TO SPEC, but I just thought I'd throw it out there. I'll test it again for the heck of it.
PS> Booster will be in by 4:30 at Kragen, unlimited lifetime warranty. 132$
*********************************************
Warm up/Idle/Missing issues;
OK, this time, I left the idle screw alone, and sure enough, it eventually idled up to around 750 when fully warm and held. HOWEVER; When I drove it around the block, when reaching the first stop sign(flecker can attest that it's maybe 1/6th of a mile, only) I came to a stop and sat there, .....The idle had gone to around 950 rpm and didn't want to move down. I got out and pressed back on the linkage, but no change, really. Maybe 50rpm(since I've adjusted the dashpot, i believe). SO, I have to conclude at least that something other than the dashpot is causing the idle to creep up.
I will replace the Booster, tomorrow, and hopefully have a more clear and QUICK path to solution of my issue, as I'll have ruled SOMETHING OUT! lol.
If someone can tell me "NO, that doesn't mean your booster is bad", then I'll listen, but I want a GOOD explanation. As far as I can see, from what I've stated above.....it's going bad. The ONLY thing I can think of, other than the test I did, is that it's got a vacuum leak in the hose......but I don't think that's it, as, well, when I remove the line to the port on the intake, plugging it SECURELY(ask Flecker, that plug is VERY tight), it still seems to loose pedal travel, slowly going toward the floor.
ANY QUICK THOUGHTS PLEASE? LOL.
Thanks guys,
Mark
06-16-2010, 04:40 PM
#172
***READ ABOVE POST, FIRST, PLEASE?***
Anyway, on a side not, I just got back from Kragen, which didn't have my booster yet....the guy clicked 'QUOTE' but never 'ORDER',...so tomorrow morning at the earliest. I then headed over to DCH Toyota for my Dipstick, Cap and Rotor, .....DANG that Dipstick is SO HARD TO GET OUT of there, lol. So used to old and busted. So anyway, "THAT'S FIXED, FLECKER!"
While standing in Kragen, waiting, ...for nothing, hahaha, a guy came in that's pretty respected, a mobile mechanic. He has 30 years with Mercedes and Toyota, and the second I told him what it was doing, he said "90% of the time, when I found that issue, it was either the booster, iacv, like you said, or MORE OFTEN.......THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR!" He said they don't have to leak past, into the vacuum line, because the internal/first diaphragm can bust and wreak havoc, but you'll never know until you do the fuel pressure. You're stopping, and if that thing is intermittently going out, it will allow the fuel pump to POUR fuel in there, and your idle will come up(just like when I pulled the vacuum to it, and it hiked up?hmmm, nvm, lol).
Anyway, just thought I'd throw that in there. I'm not going to install that booster tomorrow, nor the next day, until I KNOW that's faulty. I don't mind removing it, if that's necessary, to FULLY test it....but I just can't seem to find an 'on vehicle' test with vacuum pump or something like that. Probably cuz they don't want backpressure going to that diaphragm, to avoid puncture.
Anyway, I'm a lil more confused than when I started today, thanks to that mechanic, ...lol. But he said he'd stop by and look it over and just put in his 2 cents, ...just not sure when He'll have time.....pretty busy guy.(I've verified him and that fact, that he's VERY busy, through a few different people I know......just not sure if or when he could stop by, so I wont hold my breath, lol.
PS> At times, when sitting still(or every time I restart it), that engine light is not on. As I drive a bit, the light will come back on. If I sit, long enough, a couple of times the engine light went off.
Hoping for some input, guys, ....I'd be very grateful!
Anyway, on a side not, I just got back from Kragen, which didn't have my booster yet....the guy clicked 'QUOTE' but never 'ORDER',...so tomorrow morning at the earliest. I then headed over to DCH Toyota for my Dipstick, Cap and Rotor, .....DANG that Dipstick is SO HARD TO GET OUT of there, lol. So used to old and busted. So anyway, "THAT'S FIXED, FLECKER!"
While standing in Kragen, waiting, ...for nothing, hahaha, a guy came in that's pretty respected, a mobile mechanic. He has 30 years with Mercedes and Toyota, and the second I told him what it was doing, he said "90% of the time, when I found that issue, it was either the booster, iacv, like you said, or MORE OFTEN.......THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR!" He said they don't have to leak past, into the vacuum line, because the internal/first diaphragm can bust and wreak havoc, but you'll never know until you do the fuel pressure. You're stopping, and if that thing is intermittently going out, it will allow the fuel pump to POUR fuel in there, and your idle will come up(just like when I pulled the vacuum to it, and it hiked up?hmmm, nvm, lol).
Anyway, just thought I'd throw that in there. I'm not going to install that booster tomorrow, nor the next day, until I KNOW that's faulty. I don't mind removing it, if that's necessary, to FULLY test it....but I just can't seem to find an 'on vehicle' test with vacuum pump or something like that. Probably cuz they don't want backpressure going to that diaphragm, to avoid puncture.
Anyway, I'm a lil more confused than when I started today, thanks to that mechanic, ...lol. But he said he'd stop by and look it over and just put in his 2 cents, ...just not sure when He'll have time.....pretty busy guy.(I've verified him and that fact, that he's VERY busy, through a few different people I know......just not sure if or when he could stop by, so I wont hold my breath, lol.
PS> At times, when sitting still(or every time I restart it), that engine light is not on. As I drive a bit, the light will come back on. If I sit, long enough, a couple of times the engine light went off.
Hoping for some input, guys, ....I'd be very grateful!
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 06-16-2010 at 04:47 PM.
06-16-2010, 05:25 PM
#173
Registered User
Chef, I wish I could help you man but honestly with the idle fluctuating when you hit the brakes tells me it would be booster or vac related...I guess well know when you get that new booster in lol.
Man I wish you lived close to me we'd just take it to my bros shop and it would be like wam bam thank you mam!
Man I wish you lived close to me we'd just take it to my bros shop and it would be like wam bam thank you mam!
06-16-2010, 05:29 PM
#174
I might just drive up there and let him tickle it into shape....if ONLY I HAD THE TIME! grrrrrr.
Well, I'm about to get slammed at this party, so I must bid you ...bye bye, lol. Be back in a few. Bout 2 hours. I sure hope I can find a 'FOR SURE' test for this or that, whatever. ....I'LL TEST ANYTHING that might help. Not panicking, just wanna get it sorted out so I CAN TAKE MY DANG VACATION! First REAL one in 3 years, actually. Wont be crazy special, but maybe cruise through the sierras and hot springs, then through Auburn,(north american fork), down through Santa Cruz, Monterey Bay and such, then Carpenteria for that festival.....think I might have missed it though.
Well, I'm about to get slammed at this party, so I must bid you ...bye bye, lol. Be back in a few. Bout 2 hours. I sure hope I can find a 'FOR SURE' test for this or that, whatever. ....I'LL TEST ANYTHING that might help. Not panicking, just wanna get it sorted out so I CAN TAKE MY DANG VACATION! First REAL one in 3 years, actually. Wont be crazy special, but maybe cruise through the sierras and hot springs, then through Auburn,(north american fork), down through Santa Cruz, Monterey Bay and such, then Carpenteria for that festival.....think I might have missed it though.
06-16-2010, 05:29 PM
#175
Registered User
i missed a few pages, I think but have you seen this thread?
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...pplied-117385/
basically with or without the vacuum line connected, the ecu still has control over fuel cut etc with the brakes applied. Yet one other reason why I like carburetor vehicles.
I like telling the truck myself how I want to slow down not let a person who programmed a computer tell me how he wants to slow down. Kinda like the Bill Gates era of computers. hahaha
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...pplied-117385/
basically with or without the vacuum line connected, the ecu still has control over fuel cut etc with the brakes applied. Yet one other reason why I like carburetor vehicles.
I like telling the truck myself how I want to slow down not let a person who programmed a computer tell me how he wants to slow down. Kinda like the Bill Gates era of computers. hahaha
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 06-16-2010 at 05:32 PM.
06-16-2010, 05:40 PM
#177
Registered User
Not saying this is your problem or hacking that line is the correct way to fix it, but just letting you know, that pulling the vac line isn't the only thing that affects the idle/fuel etc with the brakes applied.
06-16-2010, 08:16 PM
#178
Yeah, and strange thing is that it keeps idling up, which I think is a separate issue, all together. The surging idle is a symptom, like that guy said.....and it's not always for the same reason, but usually related to the ECU and High Idle. Seems it's REALLY common in Automatics, to prevent harder to brake conditions like surging RPM while trying to stop, lol.
I'ma take a fresh look at it tomorrow, but I'll check back in for maybe Thook and some others, maybe Flecker has some further thoughts on it. We'll see. Either way, I'MA GET THIS SUCKA! Lol.
Thanks Xxxtreme....I knew you weren't suggesting anything, just throwing other similar situations out there, and I appreciate that. I actually SLAPPED that out before I had to run off the computer for a while.....so it was incomplete, lol. Hmmmmm, gotta be something clear as day right in front of me! lol. Just wanna be sure my booster is bad before I dump 140$ ON ONE! ...KNow what I mean?
Thanks again, homie, ....take care, and PLEASE, take lots of pics on that Trip!
I'ma take a fresh look at it tomorrow, but I'll check back in for maybe Thook and some others, maybe Flecker has some further thoughts on it. We'll see. Either way, I'MA GET THIS SUCKA! Lol.
Thanks Xxxtreme....I knew you weren't suggesting anything, just throwing other similar situations out there, and I appreciate that. I actually SLAPPED that out before I had to run off the computer for a while.....so it was incomplete, lol. Hmmmmm, gotta be something clear as day right in front of me! lol. Just wanna be sure my booster is bad before I dump 140$ ON ONE! ...KNow what I mean?
Thanks again, homie, ....take care, and PLEASE, take lots of pics on that Trip!
06-17-2010, 07:29 AM
#179
If the fuel pressure reg is bad and the fuel pressure is increasing upon warm-up the "extra" fuel would richen the misture and set your check engine light for the O2 sensor. I had a hunch it was slightly faulty. Just like the brake booster the diphrams in the booster and the fuel pressure reg and get small "pin holes" in them over time and "leak"
Most people say booster last the life of the vehicle and never get repalced much.... well that my be true for some cars but toyotas go so far past the "average life" of vehicle some parts just gotta be changed.
If your pressing the brake pedal and it slowy or at all goes to the flow with the truck on then more than likely the booster is leaking...
I think you can grab a cheap rebuilt booster for around 100-150 bucks and any parts store...
How many miles did your truck have again?
If you could get that fuel pressure tester kit you could find out for sure if the Fuel pressure reg was bad...
Most people say booster last the life of the vehicle and never get repalced much.... well that my be true for some cars but toyotas go so far past the "average life" of vehicle some parts just gotta be changed.
If your pressing the brake pedal and it slowy or at all goes to the flow with the truck on then more than likely the booster is leaking...
I think you can grab a cheap rebuilt booster for around 100-150 bucks and any parts store...
How many miles did your truck have again?
If you could get that fuel pressure tester kit you could find out for sure if the Fuel pressure reg was bad...
06-17-2010, 09:05 AM
#180
Hey Kiroshu! Thanks for slammin down some input! I know it's just "could be this or that indeed" kinda stuff, guys, but it helps to keep me from standing over it scratching my head too many minutes a day! lol.
That Traveling mechanic has a Fuel Pressure Test Kit, and he said he'd try to make some time, this weekend, but that's probably doubtful as he's really busy. That's ok, I'd rather not just buy it for the sake of eliminating it, TRUST ME! lol. The booster should be in this AM, and if I can just get some confirmation on "That pedal shouldn't travel downward once pressure is built up" thing, I'll do it for sure...BRAKES IS KINDA CRUCIAL! lol. They work great, no problem stopping, at all. But, that doesn't mean the booster is without some pinholes or cracking. It is original....could be.
Xxxtreme,
I also have driven it with the brake booster disconnected, plugged up tight at the intake, and it seems to do the same thing with the idle going up and down at a stop. (The idle HIGH thing is something different, I believe, ...could be the FPR, maybe, could be IACV, ....just wanna be sure because they're all kinda pricey, hehehe).
It looks like I'm using quite a bit of fuel, also, but I can't be too sure as I wasn't watching that very closely. Flecker and I had it running for like 20 minutes at idle, one time, 15 at idle another, and I've driven it around about 30 miles or so....but 1/3rd of a tank? Seems excessive to me as I've learned to KNOW THIS TRUCK over 8 years, lol.
FLECKER,
You stopping by today? Or, you want me to bring it to you? Never heard back, I"d be happy to save you the trip if you just don't have time. ALSO; To answer your question, if you're referring to the Coolant Temp Sensor, I have not tested the new one out on the multi-meter. Do I need to turn it on and check the connection, too? If so, need to read up a lil more. Also, I'm not sure any further way to test the IACV, other than removing it and checking for proper opening at proper time.
Any more thoughts, guys? Remind me or point me to a test, I'll GLADLY do it. Got the whole day with her! lol. Just need to figure out why it's idling up so much and why it's surging,....IACV or Booster or NEITHER, ...."could it just be that reaction between the ECU and idle above 1000?"
That Traveling mechanic has a Fuel Pressure Test Kit, and he said he'd try to make some time, this weekend, but that's probably doubtful as he's really busy. That's ok, I'd rather not just buy it for the sake of eliminating it, TRUST ME! lol. The booster should be in this AM, and if I can just get some confirmation on "That pedal shouldn't travel downward once pressure is built up" thing, I'll do it for sure...BRAKES IS KINDA CRUCIAL! lol. They work great, no problem stopping, at all. But, that doesn't mean the booster is without some pinholes or cracking. It is original....could be.
Xxxtreme,
I also have driven it with the brake booster disconnected, plugged up tight at the intake, and it seems to do the same thing with the idle going up and down at a stop. (The idle HIGH thing is something different, I believe, ...could be the FPR, maybe, could be IACV, ....just wanna be sure because they're all kinda pricey, hehehe).
It looks like I'm using quite a bit of fuel, also, but I can't be too sure as I wasn't watching that very closely. Flecker and I had it running for like 20 minutes at idle, one time, 15 at idle another, and I've driven it around about 30 miles or so....but 1/3rd of a tank? Seems excessive to me as I've learned to KNOW THIS TRUCK over 8 years, lol.
FLECKER,
You stopping by today? Or, you want me to bring it to you? Never heard back, I"d be happy to save you the trip if you just don't have time.
ALSO; To answer your question, if you're referring to the Coolant Temp Sensor, I have not tested the new one out on the multi-meter. Do I need to turn it on and check the connection, too? If so, need to read up a lil more. Also, I'm not sure any further way to test the IACV, other than removing it and checking for proper opening at proper time. Any more thoughts, guys? Remind me or point me to a test, I'll GLADLY do it. Got the whole day with her! lol. Just need to figure out why it's idling up so much and why it's surging,....IACV or Booster or NEITHER, ...."could it just be that reaction between the ECU and idle above 1000?"
