87 4Runner 22RE troubleshooting help needed
#961
THANKS! I started thinking, "This o-ring is 1500 MILES OLD! How could it or the seal be responsible if the seal is INSIDE the pump and the o-ring is so young? Secondly, that bolt that takes sealant is OUTSIDE the O-ring, and IT HAS to be leaking....so it would make sense that it's most likely the one and only culprit...especially considering the fact that everything else in there is new and NO oil is leaking past the front Oil Pump seal"... RIGHT? LOL.
I'd hate to put it back together and find that it's also something in addition,....but it would seem to me that if the oil SEAL, the main one, was leaking...it would be spinning oil all over the front of the motor...and this is just dripping from those bolts.
DANG, Rob....I'm REALLY upset! I meant that, too....that it's not common for me to be actually 'angry' at someone like this... But two things that push me into "IS THAT MARK? No way, his eyes are red with rage" ZONES? hahaha>>>> Someone messing with my loved ones, and SOMEONE STRAIGHT OUT SCREWING ME OVER! I know, he probably just passed right over it, or his guy did.... but it's STILL negligent!
Ok, I'm done ranting.... anyone have a kleenex to wipe my tears of RAGE?!?!?! HAHA...
What would you do, Rob? Just slather that thing and slap it back together? Be honest...would you tear it down to the o-ring? I think I'll just try the sealant, it's not that big a deal to tear it back down again, and I don't want to 'mess with things' that should in all logic be fine. Also, I PUT IN the Oil Seal in the front, ...>Know why? When the motor came to me, they had screwed in a bolt to the crank to hold the motor still in the delivery truck...makes sense.... But the apparatus they used? IT TORE A HUGE GOUGING HOLE into my oil seal! So, I had to replace that, TOO!
What a TOOL,......he gets my vote for the award of "Mr. 'WHATEVERRRRRRR' mechanic/machinist of the year"!
Thanks Rob, again, for always lending a thought!
Mark
I'd hate to put it back together and find that it's also something in addition,....but it would seem to me that if the oil SEAL, the main one, was leaking...it would be spinning oil all over the front of the motor...and this is just dripping from those bolts.
DANG, Rob....I'm REALLY upset! I meant that, too....that it's not common for me to be actually 'angry' at someone like this... But two things that push me into "IS THAT MARK? No way, his eyes are red with rage" ZONES? hahaha>>>> Someone messing with my loved ones, and SOMEONE STRAIGHT OUT SCREWING ME OVER! I know, he probably just passed right over it, or his guy did.... but it's STILL negligent!
Ok, I'm done ranting.... anyone have a kleenex to wipe my tears of RAGE?!?!?! HAHA...
What would you do, Rob? Just slather that thing and slap it back together? Be honest...would you tear it down to the o-ring? I think I'll just try the sealant, it's not that big a deal to tear it back down again, and I don't want to 'mess with things' that should in all logic be fine. Also, I PUT IN the Oil Seal in the front, ...>Know why? When the motor came to me, they had screwed in a bolt to the crank to hold the motor still in the delivery truck...makes sense.... But the apparatus they used? IT TORE A HUGE GOUGING HOLE into my oil seal! So, I had to replace that, TOO!
What a TOOL,......he gets my vote for the award of "Mr. 'WHATEVERRRRRRR' mechanic/machinist of the year"!
Thanks Rob, again, for always lending a thought!
Mark
#962
Registered User
I would 100% just put some sealant on that bolt & put it back together. Be sure everything is nice & clean first & of course let the sealent set up good before you start it again.
It's OK for you to be angry man, I would be too. Actually I would prob. be alot more upset, he definatly owes you some money back for this! The cam was bad enough, this is just plain unacceptable!
It's OK for you to be angry man, I would be too. Actually I would prob. be alot more upset, he definatly owes you some money back for this! The cam was bad enough, this is just plain unacceptable!
#964
Hey 1st, ......
1st off,(no pun intended, lol), ...... is yours the 3.0 or 22re? I'm not up on the 3.0 yet, learning....but not sure on the application as to that motor and sealant on a particular bolt. On the 22re, it's not 'technically' a timing cover bolt, while it DOES, indeed go into the timing cover itself. The bolt I showed in the picture, above, is the one that goes through the Oil Pump, directly underneath the "Timing Mark Plate"... which is the 12-10-8-5-0 stamped flange on the oil pump itself. On the 22re, IT HAS to have sealant on that bolt, and WILL, INDEED, LEAK like a pig, eventually, if it's not applied there. If you never removed your oil pump, then, well, you might be ok...I'm not sure on that one. However, if you did the whole kit, including water and oil pump, then it HAS to be on there, if, as I said, you even have the 22re. lol.
1st off,(no pun intended, lol), ...... is yours the 3.0 or 22re? I'm not up on the 3.0 yet, learning....but not sure on the application as to that motor and sealant on a particular bolt. On the 22re, it's not 'technically' a timing cover bolt, while it DOES, indeed go into the timing cover itself. The bolt I showed in the picture, above, is the one that goes through the Oil Pump, directly underneath the "Timing Mark Plate"... which is the 12-10-8-5-0 stamped flange on the oil pump itself. On the 22re, IT HAS to have sealant on that bolt, and WILL, INDEED, LEAK like a pig, eventually, if it's not applied there. If you never removed your oil pump, then, well, you might be ok...I'm not sure on that one. However, if you did the whole kit, including water and oil pump, then it HAS to be on there, if, as I said, you even have the 22re. lol.
#965
Well, guys, ......
She's nearly back together(Crank bolt in and set to 116#, pulley on-obviously, and belts and fan going on in 5. .... Oh, and I'm putting the steering pump on, tonight. Got some Yokahama Steering hosen, also, from a bud... GOOD stuff. I'm curious about flushing my system, so I'm looking into that before hooking up a brand new steering pump, lol. Don't want early failure.
GOD i pray this sealant bolt is the only issue. If not, oh well, what's new, eh? lol.
Keep em crossed for me! lol.....
Mark
She's nearly back together(Crank bolt in and set to 116#, pulley on-obviously, and belts and fan going on in 5. .... Oh, and I'm putting the steering pump on, tonight. Got some Yokahama Steering hosen, also, from a bud... GOOD stuff. I'm curious about flushing my system, so I'm looking into that before hooking up a brand new steering pump, lol. Don't want early failure.
GOD i pray this sealant bolt is the only issue. If not, oh well, what's new, eh? lol.
Keep em crossed for me! lol.....
Mark
#966
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Hey Chef, i think the guy that rebuilt your engine really screwed you over. Looking at the picture of the bolt you can see the engine oil in the threads, i would clean the threads of the bolt real good, put some sealer on it and put it back in, and see what happens.
#967
Heyyyy, Myyota! How'si it?
Yep, that's exactly what I did. It's been washed with mild soap and then alcohol to fully get everything, then I slathered it with "Toyota 102".... The OEM Dealer Oil pan and Cam Bolt FIPK Sealant.... GREAT stuff. It's worked really well on a couple things so far, ....just that you have to work REALLY fast... so with things like the pan, GOTTA BE READY, KNOW WHAT i MEAN? lol.
It's in, back down to 18#, 14# on the other upper 2 and 9# on the bottom 2. Checked all the timing cover bolts I could, as well. I'm hoping that's all it was. I tightened it down fully at 12:30pm PST... so about the same time, tomorrow, I'll be firing it over to check for leaks and a double check for leaks on the steering pump, just to be sure, before I tighten all 4 of them down fully again, lol.
Thanks, guys, for the advice and input. We'll see if that's all she needed... and if there's more involved, I'll be back with that, you know it! lol.
Mark
Yep, that's exactly what I did. It's been washed with mild soap and then alcohol to fully get everything, then I slathered it with "Toyota 102".... The OEM Dealer Oil pan and Cam Bolt FIPK Sealant.... GREAT stuff. It's worked really well on a couple things so far, ....just that you have to work REALLY fast... so with things like the pan, GOTTA BE READY, KNOW WHAT i MEAN? lol.
It's in, back down to 18#, 14# on the other upper 2 and 9# on the bottom 2. Checked all the timing cover bolts I could, as well. I'm hoping that's all it was. I tightened it down fully at 12:30pm PST... so about the same time, tomorrow, I'll be firing it over to check for leaks and a double check for leaks on the steering pump, just to be sure, before I tighten all 4 of them down fully again, lol.
Thanks, guys, for the advice and input. We'll see if that's all she needed... and if there's more involved, I'll be back with that, you know it! lol.
Mark
#968
Registered User
Hey 1st, ......
1st off,(no pun intended, lol), ...... is yours the 3.0 or 22re? I'm not up on the 3.0 yet, learning....but not sure on the application as to that motor and sealant on a particular bolt. On the 22re, it's not 'technically' a timing cover bolt, while it DOES, indeed go into the timing cover itself. The bolt I showed in the picture, above, is the one that goes through the Oil Pump, directly underneath the "Timing Mark Plate"... which is the 12-10-8-5-0 stamped flange on the oil pump itself. On the 22re, IT HAS to have sealant on that bolt, and WILL, INDEED, LEAK like a pig, eventually, if it's not applied there. If you never removed your oil pump, then, well, you might be ok...I'm not sure on that one. However, if you did the whole kit, including water and oil pump, then it HAS to be on there, if, as I said, you even have the 22re. lol.
1st off,(no pun intended, lol), ...... is yours the 3.0 or 22re? I'm not up on the 3.0 yet, learning....but not sure on the application as to that motor and sealant on a particular bolt. On the 22re, it's not 'technically' a timing cover bolt, while it DOES, indeed go into the timing cover itself. The bolt I showed in the picture, above, is the one that goes through the Oil Pump, directly underneath the "Timing Mark Plate"... which is the 12-10-8-5-0 stamped flange on the oil pump itself. On the 22re, IT HAS to have sealant on that bolt, and WILL, INDEED, LEAK like a pig, eventually, if it's not applied there. If you never removed your oil pump, then, well, you might be ok...I'm not sure on that one. However, if you did the whole kit, including water and oil pump, then it HAS to be on there, if, as I said, you even have the 22re. lol.
BTW i really dig the red
#969
Thanks, I dig it too! lol....
Hey, 1st....
I can only guess, especially on something with so many parts such as a timing chain/cover, but I guess I could just assume that you might have a 'mix-match' batch of bolts in there. What I did with a friend was, went to the junk yard, found a complete engine, made a template and filled it with the bolts, one at a time, where they go exactly. VERY important, and if you do that, you'll see that MANY of them are different lengths, etc. In some cases, I would imagine that some can even get in the path of things that could be bad news. That bolt, however, can be removed and replaced in about 2 hours, if you can get that crank bolt out. I can give you tips on that, from personal experience and through the dilemmas others on here have had. I put mine in 5th(new clutch), put blocks in front and rear of tires, got underneath, 2 foot cheater with 1/2" needle style torque wrench and had the end of the wrench at 10'oclock, then elevated my whole weight(230#) and pushing my feet against the passenger tire, pulled...... "CRACK". I tried it standing up above, with wrench at 12, etc..... WOULD NOT budge. Also, if you're going to pull it, or need to in the end, I would chase the crank threads as best and gently as possible and then put in a new bolt. (12$ at dealer if you get an account). I left the lock tite on there but wiped MOST of it off. The flange does 90% of the resistance-work.
As far as "waiting to see"... well, mine took around 1500 Miles to start leaking, then another 400 miles before it was pouring out of there.(Not pouring, but probably a quart a week at the latest point. I hope you just don't remember that YOU DID put it on there, cuz IT WILL leak, no doubt, if not.(This is what EVERY guru has told me.)
Hope that helps and that it's accurate! lol..........
Mark
Hey, 1st....
I can only guess, especially on something with so many parts such as a timing chain/cover, but I guess I could just assume that you might have a 'mix-match' batch of bolts in there. What I did with a friend was, went to the junk yard, found a complete engine, made a template and filled it with the bolts, one at a time, where they go exactly. VERY important, and if you do that, you'll see that MANY of them are different lengths, etc. In some cases, I would imagine that some can even get in the path of things that could be bad news. That bolt, however, can be removed and replaced in about 2 hours, if you can get that crank bolt out. I can give you tips on that, from personal experience and through the dilemmas others on here have had. I put mine in 5th(new clutch), put blocks in front and rear of tires, got underneath, 2 foot cheater with 1/2" needle style torque wrench and had the end of the wrench at 10'oclock, then elevated my whole weight(230#) and pushing my feet against the passenger tire, pulled...... "CRACK". I tried it standing up above, with wrench at 12, etc..... WOULD NOT budge. Also, if you're going to pull it, or need to in the end, I would chase the crank threads as best and gently as possible and then put in a new bolt. (12$ at dealer if you get an account). I left the lock tite on there but wiped MOST of it off. The flange does 90% of the resistance-work.
As far as "waiting to see"... well, mine took around 1500 Miles to start leaking, then another 400 miles before it was pouring out of there.(Not pouring, but probably a quart a week at the latest point. I hope you just don't remember that YOU DID put it on there, cuz IT WILL leak, no doubt, if not.(This is what EVERY guru has told me.)
Hope that helps and that it's accurate! lol..........
Mark
#971
ROBERTO! LOL...
NO, actually. Here's why;
1. I have it all back together, INCLUDING the steering pump.....
But, unfortunately, ......
2. The o-ring that goes into the elbow sleeve on top of the steering pump?....YEP, like a pig! lol. I took it off to replace it, and on top of that, being a new clean hole it's in, IT LEAKS! So, I had to order it from Toyota(good lord, WHY do they have to make things with unique o-rings!?!?!?!?!? lol.... The o-ring is like a tire, not rounded like an innertube, .....so I tried, with every o-ring they had at napa, but NO GO.
Soooooooo,
The o-ring will be in at 8:30AM PST tomorrow, and then I'll snug it up and start her up! lol.
TICKED, but what can a guy do, eh? lol.
NO, actually. Here's why;
1. I have it all back together, INCLUDING the steering pump.....
But, unfortunately, ......
2. The o-ring that goes into the elbow sleeve on top of the steering pump?....YEP, like a pig! lol. I took it off to replace it, and on top of that, being a new clean hole it's in, IT LEAKS! So, I had to order it from Toyota(good lord, WHY do they have to make things with unique o-rings!?!?!?!?!? lol.... The o-ring is like a tire, not rounded like an innertube, .....so I tried, with every o-ring they had at napa, but NO GO.
Soooooooo,
The o-ring will be in at 8:30AM PST tomorrow, and then I'll snug it up and start her up! lol.
TICKED, but what can a guy do, eh? lol.
#973
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Hi everyone, thought I would jump in on this thread and see if you've got some tips for me seeing that I'm in somewhat a similar situation. I have an '87 4Runner and recently would lose all my water into the engine... chocolate milk, white smoke and all.
In doing a compression test found out that the head is sound. Took off the rocker cover and noticed that the timing chain is cutting into the aluminum heavy on the driver's side. Thinking that it has cut a hole big enough for water to escape from the pump into the oil.
I've removed everything down to the timing chain cover and cylinder head and I'm hoping that I can remove the timing cover without removing the head. We removed all the bolts from the cover and dropped the pan and have only the distributor, which I'll get to tomorrow night. Is this possible or do I need to remove the head? Will I tear up the head gasket doing this?
As for the bolt on the drive shaft it took us a huge pipe wrench on the wheels (clutch sucks) and a long cheater bar for both of us to bust it loose. We lost one socket while doing this too! I've posted a picture of what it did to our first socket. Off to Sears to get the new one.
Let me know your thoughts... can we get the cover off without removing the head? Do you think the chain has cut a hole in the aluminum like we suspect or is there something else we should look into?
Thanks all!
In doing a compression test found out that the head is sound. Took off the rocker cover and noticed that the timing chain is cutting into the aluminum heavy on the driver's side. Thinking that it has cut a hole big enough for water to escape from the pump into the oil.
I've removed everything down to the timing chain cover and cylinder head and I'm hoping that I can remove the timing cover without removing the head. We removed all the bolts from the cover and dropped the pan and have only the distributor, which I'll get to tomorrow night. Is this possible or do I need to remove the head? Will I tear up the head gasket doing this?
As for the bolt on the drive shaft it took us a huge pipe wrench on the wheels (clutch sucks) and a long cheater bar for both of us to bust it loose. We lost one socket while doing this too! I've posted a picture of what it did to our first socket. Off to Sears to get the new one.
Let me know your thoughts... can we get the cover off without removing the head? Do you think the chain has cut a hole in the aluminum like we suspect or is there something else we should look into?
Thanks all!
#974
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
hey Chef....looks like i missed some stuff here lately. been real busy with work etc and not around as much as i used to be.
that bolt.......yeah...squeaky clean w/o sealer......hopefully that's the trick for ya.
good luck with the PS pump
hope all is well with your dad.
that bolt.......yeah...squeaky clean w/o sealer......hopefully that's the trick for ya.
good luck with the PS pump
hope all is well with your dad.
#975
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Hi everyone, thought I would jump in on this thread and see if you've got some tips for me seeing that I'm in somewhat a similar situation. I have an '87 4Runner and recently would lose all my water into the engine... chocolate milk, white smoke and all.
In doing a compression test found out that the head is sound. Took off the rocker cover and noticed that the timing chain is cutting into the aluminum heavy on the driver's side. Thinking that it has cut a hole big enough for water to escape from the pump into the oil.
I've removed everything down to the timing chain cover and cylinder head and I'm hoping that I can remove the timing cover without removing the head. We removed all the bolts from the cover and dropped the pan and have only the distributor, which I'll get to tomorrow night. Is this possible or do I need to remove the head? Will I tear up the head gasket doing this?
As for the bolt on the drive shaft it took us a huge pipe wrench on the wheels (clutch sucks) and a long cheater bar for both of us to bust it loose. We lost one socket while doing this too! I've posted a picture of what it did to our first socket. Off to Sears to get the new one.
Let me know your thoughts... can we get the cover off without removing the head? Do you think the chain has cut a hole in the aluminum like we suspect or is there something else we should look into?
Thanks all!
In doing a compression test found out that the head is sound. Took off the rocker cover and noticed that the timing chain is cutting into the aluminum heavy on the driver's side. Thinking that it has cut a hole big enough for water to escape from the pump into the oil.
I've removed everything down to the timing chain cover and cylinder head and I'm hoping that I can remove the timing cover without removing the head. We removed all the bolts from the cover and dropped the pan and have only the distributor, which I'll get to tomorrow night. Is this possible or do I need to remove the head? Will I tear up the head gasket doing this?
As for the bolt on the drive shaft it took us a huge pipe wrench on the wheels (clutch sucks) and a long cheater bar for both of us to bust it loose. We lost one socket while doing this too! I've posted a picture of what it did to our first socket. Off to Sears to get the new one.
Let me know your thoughts... can we get the cover off without removing the head? Do you think the chain has cut a hole in the aluminum like we suspect or is there something else we should look into?
Thanks all!
hey man...you're pretty much in the right spot.
1st off....use impact sockets.....much stronger.
2nd....yes the TC cover can be replaced without removing the head....I did not do it that way......member TOYOSPEARO has done it several times that way though
see "THREAD B" in my sig and you will see how the chain can cut through the timing cover
#976
hey man...you're pretty much in the right spot.
1st off....use impact sockets.....much stronger.
2nd....yes the TC cover can be replaced without removing the head....I did not do it that way......member TOYOSPEARO has done it several times that way though
see "THREAD B" in my sig and you will see how the chain can cut through the timing cover
1st off....use impact sockets.....much stronger.
2nd....yes the TC cover can be replaced without removing the head....I did not do it that way......member TOYOSPEARO has done it several times that way though
see "THREAD B" in my sig and you will see how the chain can cut through the timing cover
Mark
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 10-26-2010 at 12:27 PM.
#977
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92 Toy thank you! I have been looking through your thread and it has answered a lot already. I'll let you know how this ends up and definitely be using your thread as a guide.
#978
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
i definitely don't have all the answers....that's CHEF....he's the trouble-shooting guru here. i can only say what i did and what worked for me.
#979
Might want to start a thread though, Bjork...and I don't say that to keep you off here.(Sorry if you've already got one..haven't look that far ahead yet! lol)... Reason being, MANY more people are likely to chime in and give you their, often, VERY VALUABLE 2 Cents, if you have a fresh new thread going with detailed descriptions of what you're tackling, what you've tackled, WHO YOU WANT TO TACKLE!.... lol... ya know?
Best wishes, Bjork,
Mark
#980
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
i agree with CHEF on starting a thread....i know myself i am not likely to click into a thread i've never been on before to catch up......new threads see more initial traffic, then it filters down to several "participants" in the thread.
i know you are bustin me Mark...it's all good. I have, on several occasions, done things the hard way, that is true. it builds character.....yeah...i'll stick with THAT lie.....yeah.
i know you are bustin me Mark...it's all good. I have, on several occasions, done things the hard way, that is true. it builds character.....yeah...i'll stick with THAT lie.....yeah.