87 4Runner 22RE troubleshooting help needed
10-16-2010, 09:47 AM
#882
Hey 90, ...yeah, it seems the Dealer has a kit for like 40$. The rebuilt ones at a couple stores I know are 50$-198$....
I got under there, yesterday(being as sick as I am, probably wasn't too smart, lol)...and it's DEFINITELY leaking worse, now, than ever.
Still trying to find a good example of the rebuilding of the steering pump on these sucka's, lol. Not sure I wanna trust a 50$ pump, lol.... not when the kits to rebuild them are 40$ haha.
I got under there, yesterday(being as sick as I am, probably wasn't too smart, lol)...and it's DEFINITELY leaking worse, now, than ever.
Still trying to find a good example of the rebuilding of the steering pump on these sucka's, lol. Not sure I wanna trust a 50$ pump, lol.... not when the kits to rebuild them are 40$ haha.
10-16-2010, 04:40 PM
#883
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: hubert nc
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well, i say u could try it for 40 bucks,
and take a bunch of pic's and have a good write up about it to share with everyone..
well either you wil fix or you just give up on it..
and then you could just exchange it for a 50 dollar pump.. so..
at the most your will have to spend a couple at the local dinner washing dishes for a few hours to make up the diffrence... for the lost cash if it comes to that
and take a bunch of pic's and have a good write up about it to share with everyone..
well either you wil fix or you just give up on it..
and then you could just exchange it for a 50 dollar pump.. so..
at the most your will have to spend a couple at the local dinner washing dishes for a few hours to make up the diffrence... for the lost cash if it comes to that
10-16-2010, 04:41 PM
#884
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: hubert nc
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
iam going to got out too the garage ans check ou my pump to investage, how they come apart.. and i'am going to digg around in my haynes manual.. and see what is n their on the PS pump
10-16-2010, 05:02 PM
#885
Dishes? hahahaha... yer funny!
Yeah, I've torn basically every inch of this rig apart around 3 times, lol.... NO problem doing so, if it'll be the wiser way to go. However, often, time is the cruel mistress in my ''to be or not to be'' type dilemmas, lol. It's really strange, too... Sometimes, it will leak, noticeably, ...others, like the last 2 days, NOT AT ALL! hahaha. Screwy thing.
I know one thing for sure...my upper hose that connects the reservoir to the pump?.... it's DEFINITELY leaking. If that was all, great, I'd replace and be done with it...however, it seems to be leaking from the front seal, and it also has a bit of 'noise' coming from it under load. So, as soon as I have a couple hours to get on it, once I'm no longer sick, ....I'll yoink the thing and then decide. For now, I cleaned it all up and I'm going to watch and see where it's leaking from, exactly, ...then go from there. Not a huge hurry brudda.
Thanks for the checking out yours deal. Can't hurt, but not sure it's the same on 2wd. I know one thing...that high pressure hose?...IT'S 41$ at the cheapest at the parts stores....around 200$ AT TOYOTA! HAHAHAHA! Sure hope that aint leakin! lol.
PS> If I feel well enough, tomorrow, I'll be tackling at least the Heater Core check! gonna check for flow, etc., then go from there as to whether or not I need to soak it, replace it, or if it's JUST THE VALVE(
???) haha. If I have time, I'll pull the pump, too, if it's needed.
Yeah, I've torn basically every inch of this rig apart around 3 times, lol.... NO problem doing so, if it'll be the wiser way to go. However, often, time is the cruel mistress in my ''to be or not to be'' type dilemmas, lol. It's really strange, too... Sometimes, it will leak, noticeably, ...others, like the last 2 days, NOT AT ALL! hahaha. Screwy thing.
I know one thing for sure...my upper hose that connects the reservoir to the pump?.... it's DEFINITELY leaking. If that was all, great, I'd replace and be done with it...however, it seems to be leaking from the front seal, and it also has a bit of 'noise' coming from it under load. So, as soon as I have a couple hours to get on it, once I'm no longer sick, ....I'll yoink the thing and then decide. For now, I cleaned it all up and I'm going to watch and see where it's leaking from, exactly, ...then go from there. Not a huge hurry brudda.
Thanks for the checking out yours deal. Can't hurt, but not sure it's the same on 2wd. I know one thing...that high pressure hose?...IT'S 41$ at the cheapest at the parts stores....around 200$ AT TOYOTA! HAHAHAHA! Sure hope that aint leakin! lol.
PS> If I feel well enough, tomorrow, I'll be tackling at least the Heater Core check! gonna check for flow, etc., then go from there as to whether or not I need to soak it, replace it, or if it's JUST THE VALVE(
???) haha. If I have time, I'll pull the pump, too, if it's needed.
10-16-2010, 05:05 PM
#886
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: hubert nc
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
chef, i just looked at haynes manual, they say just go do a exchange.. i say hell no..
i think there is only 3 or 4 bolts holding it together.. i thinkg the hardest part is just geting the pulley off the pump..
before you tackel this job i would get pleanty of degreaser and soak it down so your not working in a grease pitt,
i bet the PS pump isnt muchmore different than the way your oil pump works... so say it will be worth 40 bucks for a trial and error method
i think there is only 3 or 4 bolts holding it together.. i thinkg the hardest part is just geting the pulley off the pump..
before you tackel this job i would get pleanty of degreaser and soak it down so your not working in a grease pitt,
i bet the PS pump isnt muchmore different than the way your oil pump works... so say it will be worth 40 bucks for a trial and error method
10-16-2010, 05:12 PM
#887
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: hubert nc
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
chef, just get a small propane heater to put in your cab.. it will heat you right out of the truck..
i dread on having to pull out a heater core.. its a good thing mine has absoutly no problems..
i dread on having to pull out a heater core.. its a good thing mine has absoutly no problems..
10-16-2010, 05:14 PM
#888
Hey, I just read..... Section 10A-15, eh? lol. Yeah, "SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED".... which I can usually rent at my near by store. BTW, are you thinking of rebuilding yours? Is it leaking? Just curious.
What I'll probably do is ask my buddy at Napa if he can pull a 'debbie two step'.... which would be to search the stores for a returned one, and then give it to me for 50% off or so. Also, he can get me the kit for cheap. So, I'll probably see if I can borrow my buddy at the dealers FSM and copy the pages of the section on it's breakdown... and if it's worth a 10$ savings to keep the OEM one...sure nuff, I'll do it. We'll see. Either way, I can get an Altrom(AISIN COUSIN) for 90$, 100$-core charge. So, I can't 'KEEP' one and so on. If I'm gonna take it apart, it's GOT TO WORK, as they wont take it disassembled, ya know? lol.
What I'll probably do is ask my buddy at Napa if he can pull a 'debbie two step'.... which would be to search the stores for a returned one, and then give it to me for 50% off or so. Also, he can get me the kit for cheap. So, I'll probably see if I can borrow my buddy at the dealers FSM and copy the pages of the section on it's breakdown... and if it's worth a 10$ savings to keep the OEM one...sure nuff, I'll do it. We'll see. Either way, I can get an Altrom(AISIN COUSIN) for 90$, 100$-core charge. So, I can't 'KEEP' one and so on. If I'm gonna take it apart, it's GOT TO WORK, as they wont take it disassembled, ya know? lol.
10-16-2010, 05:19 PM
#889
On the Heater... I've got a buddy that said, "If the core is dust...we'll do it in 2 hours, I have a trick!"... He's stopping by next weekend. HOWEVER; If it's just a lil plugged up, and I can get it to flow again, or, if it's just the control valve...
1. I already called Jap. Truck Dismantlers, who said, "Sure, Mark...I have MANY 89-95 Heater Control Valves..... 20$, for the plastic ones you want". SOLD, I said, lol. THAT'S IF it's the problem. From what I've read, it's usually the cause.
2. Also, I've read that you can just bypass the valve and let it run through there all the time...which actually stops corrosion from happening as often(I'm in CA, and what I mean is,....very rare I use the heater, even in Winter...sOoooooo, it gets more corroded by not circulating, ya know?)... As long as it doesn't heat up the CAB like crazy through radiant heat, I wont lose any sleep just ditching the control valve. I know guys in Alaska that run their heaters YEAR ROUND and have NEVER had a problem with the core always running. So, it's a thought, ya know?
1. I already called Jap. Truck Dismantlers, who said, "Sure, Mark...I have MANY 89-95 Heater Control Valves..... 20$, for the plastic ones you want". SOLD, I said, lol. THAT'S IF it's the problem. From what I've read, it's usually the cause.
2. Also, I've read that you can just bypass the valve and let it run through there all the time...which actually stops corrosion from happening as often(I'm in CA, and what I mean is,....very rare I use the heater, even in Winter...sOoooooo, it gets more corroded by not circulating, ya know?)... As long as it doesn't heat up the CAB like crazy through radiant heat, I wont lose any sleep just ditching the control valve. I know guys in Alaska that run their heaters YEAR ROUND and have NEVER had a problem with the core always running. So, it's a thought, ya know?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 10-16-2010 at 05:21 PM.
10-16-2010, 05:57 PM
#890
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: hubert nc
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well i just to throw this out there i run the a/c in all the my vehicles all year round so my seals dont dry rott. and crack..
i saw some on mentioin to use CLR i would try that too. or hell try some Vinger or to get a 2 liter bottle of coke cola their is alot of phosric acid in coke so it eats up all the stuff..
i saw some on mentioin to use CLR i would try that too. or hell try some Vinger or to get a 2 liter bottle of coke cola their is alot of phosric acid in coke so it eats up all the stuff..
10-17-2010, 04:18 PM
#891
Today;
Had limited time, so I ran it to warm, while doing other things that I'M WAY BEHIND ON, lol.
1. While warm, checked both hoses going to and coming out of Core.... BOTH VERY HOT, and became warm at the same time. Turned on heater, and it's coming out a lil warm, but like I said, NO WAY in the Sierras this winter it will cut the mustard, lol. (I DID NOT have time to try to back flush it, that's why I just let it warm up.)
2. I did take the time(Since I don't need my heater in emergency fashion just yet).. to pull my power antenna. The motor works fine, and it used to go up and down even though the mast was cracking..... But then my buddy from OR who was visiting accidentally pushed the button thinking it was the back window and it flopped over on the quarter panel, lol. Then, when trying to get it back in, it finally broke completely. Now, when trying to push it back in while pressing the antenna motor button in the cab, it's not moving up and down and it's 'clicking' over and over every 3 seconds or so. I'm assuming that's the plastic cable inside flapping around every revolution? Here's a picture....
Question, can I just replace the mast if the motor is working fine? My antenna never went up and down automatically, but it has a button that says "UP/DOWN" in the dash that still engages the motor, etc. Am I better off just replacing it with an EBAY lifetime warranty entire set up for 69$...or just get the mast for 20$? I don't want to replace the mast and then have the motor break another cable. Before the metal part of the mast finally separated completely, I had fine reception and yet, it would make noise on the AM when first starting, etc. I'm figuring that will all go away when replacing this mast or whole shebang... HOPING, key words! lol.
ANY THOUGHTS? I've thought of the invisible ones and the Euro style ones and the 'Real Carbon Fiber' ones... but figured, stock seemed to last a long time and work well, until it got yanked on....so what's the quickest and most quality fix, guys?
Had limited time, so I ran it to warm, while doing other things that I'M WAY BEHIND ON, lol.
1. While warm, checked both hoses going to and coming out of Core.... BOTH VERY HOT, and became warm at the same time. Turned on heater, and it's coming out a lil warm, but like I said, NO WAY in the Sierras this winter it will cut the mustard, lol. (I DID NOT have time to try to back flush it, that's why I just let it warm up.)
2. I did take the time(Since I don't need my heater in emergency fashion just yet).. to pull my power antenna. The motor works fine, and it used to go up and down even though the mast was cracking..... But then my buddy from OR who was visiting accidentally pushed the button thinking it was the back window and it flopped over on the quarter panel, lol. Then, when trying to get it back in, it finally broke completely. Now, when trying to push it back in while pressing the antenna motor button in the cab, it's not moving up and down and it's 'clicking' over and over every 3 seconds or so. I'm assuming that's the plastic cable inside flapping around every revolution? Here's a picture....
Question, can I just replace the mast if the motor is working fine? My antenna never went up and down automatically, but it has a button that says "UP/DOWN" in the dash that still engages the motor, etc. Am I better off just replacing it with an EBAY lifetime warranty entire set up for 69$...or just get the mast for 20$? I don't want to replace the mast and then have the motor break another cable. Before the metal part of the mast finally separated completely, I had fine reception and yet, it would make noise on the AM when first starting, etc. I'm figuring that will all go away when replacing this mast or whole shebang... HOPING, key words! lol.
ANY THOUGHTS? I've thought of the invisible ones and the Euro style ones and the 'Real Carbon Fiber' ones... but figured, stock seemed to last a long time and work well, until it got yanked on....so what's the quickest and most quality fix, guys?
10-17-2010, 04:37 PM
#892
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: GrangeVille, Idaho
Posts: 4,166
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
Hey Chef, check out this place, you might be able to get a new mast for your antenna here.
www.antennamastsrus.com
www.antennamastsrus.com
10-17-2010, 04:39 PM
#893
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: hubert nc
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
chef look at the little flexable rubber antenna i have on my truck you can see from my profile pic. i got it at auto zone for 12 bucks, the toyota dealer want like 69 bucks i was like hell no.. let me see if they carry the same manufactuer at the parts store and sure enough they did..
i didnt have antenna when i got my truck and the little guy works excellant
i didnt have antenna when i got my truck and the little guy works excellant
10-17-2010, 06:53 PM
#895
Hey 90, yeah, I really want to get one that retracts all the way in again, like it used to. I forgot it one day at the car wash, and I think that's when it got bent in the first place. If i can get this whole mast out, maybe I can match it up at the parts store..........
Thanks Myyota .... I stopped by Pep Boys, who always has a large selection of accessories, and they had quite a few masts for the POWER antenna, even a couple for Toyota, but they were all around 90 and up, which have a different sized mast-base and drum(I'm assuming the 'drum' is the thing that holds it securely in the mounting hole, and keeps out moisture....right? lol).
I found this site, ..........
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Power...item2c57ad5a9a
But it looks like the one you posted, Myyota, is the OEM route, with drum included. I'll have to call both of them in the morning and make sure that the 20$ kit has everything I'll need to get mine working again. From what I've read, the OEM power antennas in these are really good quality and have great amplified reception. Before it got tweaked, it performed better than some of my buddy's rigs up in the mountains, etc.
Anyway, guess I'll not be fixing it tonight,....but can anyone tell me, what do I have to do in order to get the mast/cable out of the motor? Just don't wanna break anything, ya know? I'm assuming I have to take off that drum looking cover on the motor and pull out the old cable???? Anyone?
Thanks Myyota .... I stopped by Pep Boys, who always has a large selection of accessories, and they had quite a few masts for the POWER antenna, even a couple for Toyota, but they were all around 90 and up, which have a different sized mast-base and drum(I'm assuming the 'drum' is the thing that holds it securely in the mounting hole, and keeps out moisture....right? lol).
I found this site, ..........
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Power...item2c57ad5a9a
But it looks like the one you posted, Myyota, is the OEM route, with drum included. I'll have to call both of them in the morning and make sure that the 20$ kit has everything I'll need to get mine working again. From what I've read, the OEM power antennas in these are really good quality and have great amplified reception. Before it got tweaked, it performed better than some of my buddy's rigs up in the mountains, etc.
Anyway, guess I'll not be fixing it tonight,....but can anyone tell me, what do I have to do in order to get the mast/cable out of the motor? Just don't wanna break anything, ya know? I'm assuming I have to take off that drum looking cover on the motor and pull out the old cable???? Anyone?
10-17-2010, 09:37 PM
#897
Hey Myyota, guys,
Yeah, well, I took the motor apart to get out the broken pieces(broken into at least 5 pieces inside the drum)....and it was quite corroded under the plastic protective wrapping(the contact grounds, etc.). Also, there was corrosion under the outer-galvanized drum that fits over the stainless drum that the cable rides in. Lastly, the cable will slide down the shaft into the housing, but I have no idea how the new one which is notched will stay in there.... The Original?...NO NOTCHES, none! So, I guess either I have to hope for a proper diagram on how to insert a new mast with cable....or just get the whole new set up from my favorite yard, or aftermarket(either power or hidden or euro or WHATEVER, lol.
I'll post pics of the insides of this thing, tomorrow. Either way, if I keep it, ...I'll have to clean it up really well and use some dielectric grease in there.
Yeah, well, I took the motor apart to get out the broken pieces(broken into at least 5 pieces inside the drum)....and it was quite corroded under the plastic protective wrapping(the contact grounds, etc.). Also, there was corrosion under the outer-galvanized drum that fits over the stainless drum that the cable rides in. Lastly, the cable will slide down the shaft into the housing, but I have no idea how the new one which is notched will stay in there.... The Original?...NO NOTCHES, none! So, I guess either I have to hope for a proper diagram on how to insert a new mast with cable....or just get the whole new set up from my favorite yard, or aftermarket(either power or hidden or euro or WHATEVER, lol.
I'll post pics of the insides of this thing, tomorrow. Either way, if I keep it, ...I'll have to clean it up really well and use some dielectric grease in there.
10-17-2010, 10:05 PM
#898
I'm probably going to go with the Antennas'R'us, because for one, their instructions were incredible... secondly, I can get the entire unit, mast already installed, for 33$ with shipping, great guarantee, and I wouldn't have to mess with installing the mast and making a mistake, etc. Plus, the OEM Mast, alone, is 24$.....WHY in the heck would I not get a new motor for 10$ more that's OE and guaranteed, etc., with NO RUST, etc. I'll just use my old plastic cover and be sure to seal up the nut that keeps water from seeping in and down the mast.
Thanks, guys!
Thanks, guys!
10-17-2010, 11:07 PM
#899
Pics, as promised, of Power Antenna and issues therein:
Is this piece supposed to stay in there, always? Cuz I can't get it out, lol.....
Well, that's the long and short of my carnage in there. I guess I could try to just do the mast, but I'm going to first send pics of what i'm dealing with to the supplier. Again, I'll not be dealing with trying to get a new mast into this corroded thing if I can't get it all cleaned up and get the new one in, know what I mean?
Is this piece supposed to stay in there, always? Cuz I can't get it out, lol.....
Well, that's the long and short of my carnage in there. I guess I could try to just do the mast, but I'm going to first send pics of what i'm dealing with to the supplier. Again, I'll not be dealing with trying to get a new mast into this corroded thing if I can't get it all cleaned up and get the new one in, know what I mean?
