1990yota-pickup

before you go pulling off everything, check the in and out hoses with your hand to determine if your getting hot in, and out, of the hosses..

warm your truck up for about 15 minutes.. iv you dummped your coolant just use water.. it will work perfect..

i would blow some air throw the heater core too.. just to check for some type of restriction..

i would also pull your carpet or floor matting to see if there is a slight coolant leak in the heater core..

i would pull your butter fly valve off and just do a simple check to to make sure its doing what is supposed to do control the flow.. of fluid.. maybe its broke in the inside... in the closed postition ...

honstely what do you hasve to lose some time checking or to pay some grease ball to figure it out for ya and over charge ya...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Oh, I haven't done anything yet, lol. REALLY been busy. However, I will just pull and cork the in and out hoses and then check that for smooth passage. Also, first, I'll let it warm up and see if I get hot going in AND OUT, yeah? Never really messed with a heater core, so I'll check it out and try some stuff out. I would like to find out what that solution is though..just to give it a good soak and remove some of the crap, then flush it out and start over, ya know?

Butterfly valve? Meaning, the heater control valve? I'll try to figure that out too. Thanks for the input, 90!

myyota

Chef, try back flushing the heater core and see what comes out. if its really plugged you might try and see if you can some how get some CLR in the heater core and let it set for a while and see if it breaks the crap loose in the heater core. If it doesn`t, then its time to replace it.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks bud...

When You say 'backflush', do you mean force water from the right side firewall inlet to the left side firewall outlet?....or vice versa?

myyota

Right, the side with the heater valve on it is the inlet side, so remove the hoses going to the heater core and hook your garden hose to the outlet side and turn it on and see what if anything comes out. If you have the stock brass heater valve make sure it still opens and closes, if its shot and no longer working upgrade to a heater valve from an 89 4Runner, its plastic and won`t freeze up like the stock valve does. I have an 89 4Runner heater valve on my 4Runner.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Myyota... thanks.

Ok, just to clear a couple things up and otherwise.

1. I was not planning on 'converting' my AC to R134a. I have a full OE Seal kit from Napa that is meant to reseal everything I can before refilling with R12 Freon. The kit came with Oil/AC-Lubrication oil, but no freon, ........obviously, lol.

2. The Heater Control Valve is original, from what I can tell. It appears to be brass on the inlet, with a white plastic guide that the cable runs into???? I'm fairly certain it's original. I will test the core... you meant, if I can triple check, "Pull both hoses off the core and force water through the side of the core that the control valve is on and see if it comes out freely from the outlet side(left). If that seems to be flowing poorly, clean out as best as i can and maybe soak it with some cleaning solution, etc....then flush and run. If it DOES seem to flow ok, in and out the core alone, then check my valve for obstruction." ???? Sorry, i get it, ...I think, just making sure, lol. Also, even though the knob in the cab is stiff and doesn't wanna move all the way, one way or the other,>>> When I am under the hood, I can push the valve in or pull it out, where it goes into the firewall. I'm wondering if I'm checking in the wrong place... Should I be trying to move the cable that goes into the white plastic plunger??? thanks Myyota, in advance.

3. Doesn't seem to matter if I push that cable in or out(when I push it in or out the knob in the dash seems to go all the way to the left or right...but I'm beginning to think that that DOES NOT change the status of the actual control valve itself...it's only allowing the knob to move left to AC or right to Heater. I'll check and report back.

1990yota-pickup

chef look at page 3-6 in your haynes manual its right there in picture 12.7 that is your control valve..

1990yota-pickup

chef, u can use that stuff called duracool its a direct replacement for r12... stacey daivd was talking about on old trucksor gearz show i dont remember but its out there

i know u look on you tube and see pleanty of video about this..

i hear you need to go to mexico for r12.. just make aroad trip... lol

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Nope, you can order R12 on the net, homie..... I'll leave it at that, lol, except to say, it's around 15$ a pound.

Thanks on the rest, I'll definitely look into it. Weird thing; today, while running around like a chicken with his head cut off, as I usually do, .....I suddenly didn't feel well. My throat, lil dizzy, ....DANGIT! lol. I've avoided this for a few years. Might just be cuz I've done 2 speaking events in the last 4 days and was shouting at a play the other day....etc....yeah, maybe I'm just exhausted, between that and work, etc. I sure hope I'm not sick. Either way, all the more incentive to GET THAT HEATER HOT! eh? lol.

thanks again, Guys,

Mark

PS> Just saw the second post... yeah, I found that, just 2 hours ago(the pic of the valve)....which I knew where it was, etc.....just never gave much thought as to how that whole system works....Much like the rest of the projects I've tackled since May, eh? lol. I might just replace it, if it's corroded at all. I've NEVER ran on water, but I waited FAR too long to flush the coolant, last time. It just never seemed to get dirty or filled with chunks of rust, etc. Just PRAYING that my core is ok. Never ran the heater much at all, which I KNOW is probably more of a problem than a good thing.... but we'll see, eh?

1990yota-pickup

well u can alwas buy a 12 volt blanket ouf of jc whitnney i grantee they sell those type of blankets... or check northeren tools...

haha. that would make a good laugh... if you did..

stevenazevedo00

you might need to rebuild/clean your carb does it idle fine after its warmed up if so i have the same problem mine deisled and sputtered we eventually turned the idle screw up to keep it from dieng i replaced my spark plugs checked the rotor and timing its all fine it feels like a miss but your most likely loading up the cylinders we sprayed carb cleaner into the butterfly while it was running... took the idle screw out cleaned it put it back in when it was OFF! sprayed the carb one more time before we started it and ran perfect! it was wierd since weve done this before but it still has a real cold idle but after it runs for about 5 min it doesnt studder or stall its like right off the factory line we think theres a cylinoid out thats not keeping the idle up when its cold we dont know if were missing vacuum lines that are supposed to actuate it or what?...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Steve.....

I'm not sure if you're asking for advice or whether you're just offering suggestions that partially solved your issues. However, I'm guessing that you either read the first comment in this thread or you are, in fact, trying to fish for advice.

My motor is EFI, and most of my issues have been solved. It's running really well. If you need advice on carb. issues, I'm not really well read on the 22R, but I know many on this site are. Maybe try starting a thread, and label it, "Cold start idle issues on 22r, help?" I'm not sure what type of 'Cold Start' helper you have on the 22r, but I would assume it's 'CHOKE' related, or possibly your 'Coolant Temperature Sensor' isn't working? Again, not exactly sure how that works on the 22r, ...but I KNOW many on here that would know.

Best wishes on figuring it out,

Mark

myyota

Hey Chef, pull both hoses off the heater core, the side with the heater valve is the inlet side, flush the heater core from the other side. If your heater control valve is stuck closed the heater control in the cad will still move, what`s happening is the cable is bending and will have to be either straightened (if possible) or replaced, and that`s not an easy job.
Would you pm me were you can buy the r12 freon from.

92 TOY

Mark.....do the levers move easily.

the bonehead previous owner of Joe's had the heater controls out but i found a set on ebay and installed it........(HINT:lot's of fishing around to get those in)....it does NOT move smoothly and is seemingly bound-up. those one of those sub-projects.

the controls in my truck move very easily....joe's....not so much.

i'd still do the flush too.

if you can't fix it.....i'll just take the whole damn 4runner.............no really, i would.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Sure, I've got it on my External HD at my buddy's house. I'll ask him to find it on there, or if he can't, I'll send it to you when I get it back from him. I don't have the box, etc.... But I'll get that to you ASAP, k? Sorry if it takes a lil longer..I'm pretty sick right now.

OK< just forget it.... all this work and great results mean nothing if the heater isn't working right.... and HECK, the lighter is old, too...JUST GONNA LEAVE IT ON THE CURB WITH A FREE SIGN! hahaha.

you're funny, Jerry. Honestly? I'M NOT selling this thing... ever, if I can help it. I might pick up a project soon...but not until this thing is 'TOIGHT LIKE A TOIGER!" LOL.

92 TOY

hahahaha Chef.....just like I will never get rid of my stuff

1990yota-pickup

steve i knwo what your talking about t5he cold start issue.. i just dont have the time to expaling right now... do some reasreach.. on how to clean the carb... or rebuild..

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

STUPID VIRUS'S! Really stinks that, I finally have 'time' to work on my truck....but I can't, because I'm too sick to go outdoors! lol.

PS> My steering pump is REALLY seeming to leak now. I think the only reason I didn't notice it as much, before now, is because I was BARELY driving it until I could find what ended up being the "BAD CAM" syndrome, lol. Curious as to the best way to fix this. I tried Lucas Fluid with stop leak.....NO LUCK, lol. Should I just hit a yard and get a low miles pump?

Plan of Attack:

1. Fix Heater issue
2. Fix Steering Pump
3. Flush Master Cyl. and Brake lines
4. Fix Voltage Issue
5. Fix BROKEN POWER ANTENNA!
6. Fix Suspension(mainly front end IFS) issue..(takes LOTSA MONEY!... I'm planning on using Rob2Techs BEEFY long travel Heim, etc. mod, lol)
7. Fix Front Transmission Seal Leak

1990yota-pickup

man up and try to rebuild it

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

MAN UP? hahaha. Hey now, c'mon....I've never backed down from anything thus far, right? Geesh! lol.

I hear ya, 90,....but why do that if I can find one with 80K on it for cheap? Wouldn't that be more logical, to get one with less wear, let alone MUCH younger seals?

What's the difference in cost that I'm looking at?(Just off the top of your head, 90....I'll do the research, don't worry, lol).